Hayward Aquarite SWG Blowing 2.5amp fuse

[mdavis49]

From this reference, it looks like the fuse should be 20 amps.

If the main board has been replaced, it has a 20 amp fuse and you should not need the bottom fuse.

From this reference, it looks like the fuse should be 20 amps.

If the main board has been replaced, it has a 20 amp fuse and you should not need the bottom fuse.

I don't think that the original fuse was 2.5 amps.

The original fuse was probably 20 amps.

Do you still have the original fuse?

In any case, I think that all you have to do is take the yellow and orange wires off of the fuse and connect them to the terminals by the yellow 20 amp fuse on the circuit board.

Maybe C0d3Sp4c3 can confirm. No, don't have the original fuse. the glass broke when removed it from the fuse holder.

 

[JamesW]

Ok. In any case, just take the yellow and orange wires off of the fuse and connect them to the circuit board by the yellow 20 amp fuse on the terminals marked yellow and orange.

Start it up and report the diagnostic readings.

 

[JamesW]

What caused the black mark in this picture?

Did someone short a hot wire to the case?

 

[mdavis49]

The reference says that the glass fuse is 20 amps.

I am pretty sure that it is on the secondary output and not the primary winding input.

@mdavis49, can you show a picture of the wiring going to the fuse holder?

Thanks to all who have helped me to fix this issue! I don't have the original fuse (glass broke when I removed it), but i do have the first replacement fuse i initially used (the one taped to the owners manual). It was indeed a 20amp slo-burn fuse, not 2.5amp.....no wonder every 2.5amp fuse I used burned out! Not sure why the second 20amp slo-burn fuse burned out; do fuses expire?
Anyway, rather than use the 20amp fuse on the pcb, I am now using a new 20amp glass fuse, leaving the wiring the way it was, and it is working!! I have toggled thru the diagnostics and all looks good:
3800....salt reading (little high)
064....pool temp (brrrr)
24.6....cell voltage (22.0-25.0 normal)
5.37....cell current (4.5-7.8 normal)
50P....output%
-3800...instant salt reading (little high)
AL-0.....AquaLink
r015....software release
t-15......T-cell 15

 

[JamesW]

Ok. Good job. It will work with either fuse.

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[JamesW]

Also, I understand if you're a little bit leery about someone telling you that you don't need a fuse and to just not use it.

I know that I wouldn't bypass an existing fuse unless I was 100% sure.

It's always best to keep it just to be safe.

The yellow fuse does the same thing as the glass fuse. So you can switch to it if you want.