Hayward Aquarite says my salt is 400ppm?

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A

aceniza

Well-known member
Jun 17, 2019
95
DFW
Pool Size
14300
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite Pro (T-15)
Just added a ton of salt about a month ago... a bit too much. I think the Aquarite said 4200ppm
Last night I noticed the pool smelled gross. Solid lights for check salt (300-400) and check cell.

I have been battling TA and PH all summer, trying to keep the pump going to combat this insane texas heat. We leave the cover on and the temps get over 100. Take it off and chlorine drops.

Pull the cell today and sure enough, it's gunked up. Cleaned it out with MA, hooked everything back up.
Cell is now clean, but check salt is still solid, still reading at 300-400. Tried the reset/recalibrate procedure and no change.

No one local has the K-1766, so ordering off Amazon, won't be here until Sunday.
I have never seen salt drop that low, that fast before. Usually it's down around 2500-2700 at the end of the season from splash out, etc.

What do y'all think? T-cell was just replaced Feb 2021 after the infamous snowmageddon.
 
FC 17.3 (i dumped 3gal last night)
CC 0.0
pH 8.0
TA 150
CH 450
CYA 90
Salt ? Aquarite says 300-400. It was 4400 27 days ago
 
I'm reading that this may be a problem with the Aquarite board - curious if this is possible after a power outtage?

We get power outtages all the time... but we had a storm roll through on Tuesday and some lightning got everything to blink momentarily. I wonder if that did it.
 
Do you open the cover routinely to let the water "breath" a bit? The cover will trap the gases and CCs that you normally burn off . Try opening the cover every few days even if not using the pool to let it air out.
That's nothing to do with the salt cell problem, but might help fix the funky odor?
 
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
The Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines explains each reading.

  • Instant salt = the cells reading of the current salt PPM
  • Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
YippeeSkippy said:
Do you open the cover routinely to let the water "breath" a bit? The cover will trap the gases and CCs that you normally burn off . Try opening the cover every few days even if not using the pool to let it air out.
That's nothing to do with the salt cell problem, but might help fix the funky odor?
Click to expand...
my kids go in it everyday... typically when we don't uncover it, it just smells like strong chlorine from the pump generating every night.
 
ajw22 said:
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
The Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines explains each reading.

  • Instant salt = the cells reading of the current salt PPM
  • Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
thanks, going to look at that now. I also found the pdf from inyopool to look over.
 

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ajw22 said:
This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

  • Report all readings when you..
    • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
    • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
    • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

  • Default salt display
  • Pool temp
  • Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
  • Cell current
  • Desired output (% of the knob)
  • Instant salinity
  • Product name
  • Software revision (r.XX)
  • Cell type
The Hayward Aquarite Troubleshooting Guidelines explains each reading.

  • Instant salt = the cells reading of the current salt PPM
  • Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
400
94
31.1
0.00
100P
-400
AL-0
r1.59
T-3

No change when off or on other that cell current goes to 0.18
 
What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

I suspect your cell is depleted.

Take your cell into a Hayward dealer who has a cell tester.
 
aceniza said:
Wow, it’s only 18 mos old. Hopefully covered under the 3yr warranty
Click to expand...

A T-3 cell is too small for your pool in Texas.

We recommend a cell be at least 2X your pool capacity. The T-3 cell is speced for a 15,000 gallon pool which you have and is why you need to run it at 100%.

Running your T-3 cell at 100% generates 4.2 ppm of FC/day which is barely enough in the Texas sun depending on your CYA level.

Hayward says the T-3 cell has a lifetime of 364 days at 100% or 8,736 hours at 100%. So 18 months is about what you would expect

If you replaced it with a T-15 cell you would run the T-15 at about 35% for the same chlorine output and the T-15 should last you four to five years.
 
ajw22 said:
A T-3 cell is too small for your pool in Texas.

We recommend a cell be at least 2X your pool capacity. The T-3 cell is speced for a 15,000 gallon pool which you have and is why you need to run it at 100%.

Running your T-3 cell at 100% generates 4.2 ppm of FC/day which is barely enough in the Texas sun depending on your CYA level.

Hayward says the T-3 cell has a lifetime of 364 days at 100% or 8,736 hours at 100%. So 18 months is about what you would expect

If you replaced it with a T-15 cell you would run the T-15 at about 35% for the same chlorine output and the T-15 should last you four to five years.
Click to expand...
Wow. I wish I had known this last year when I replaced it. That one was about 2 years old and was working fine, but busted during our freeze.

Thanks for the info. I assume pipe diameters are the same?
 
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