Hayward Aquarite Question

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gregs

0
Sep 8, 2007
78
Florida
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I have an older Aquarite SWCG version 1.40 that is going to need a replacement cell. My pool is around 15k and when I bought this years ago I bought for a 20k pool size and it uses the GLX-CELL-5. I read on the "further reading" post that I may be able to use the larger T-15 CELL that may provide longer life. I inspected my control board for the jumper to move from T-5 to T-15 but there is not one, however the board is labeled and the holes are there. I also read that I may be able to solder a jumper across the 2 holes to enable the T-15. My question is if anybody has done that and did it work ok? Just wondering if the logic and everything is present for it to work correctly? Seems odd that they wouldn't just put the jumper in there since its only pennies, but I also figured maybe its a way to control how there sold and the price difference.

FWIW the thermistor in my current cell has failed and I am getting the HOT message. I ohmed it out and its around 790 ohms, so thats about 220 degrees! Going to see if I can rig something up to continue to use the cell until it totally dies.
 
Here is what I have
 

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JamesW said:
It will work.
Click to expand...
Quick question regarding the T-cell thermistor problem. Can I cut either the red or blue wire under the cover of the cell to "trick" it into working by defaulting to the 77 degree reading? Basically want to verify the cell is still good before spending time figuring out a thermistor work around.
 

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gregs said:
Quick question regarding the T-cell thermistor problem. Can I cut either the red or blue wire under the cover of the cell to "trick" it into working by defaulting to the 77 degree reading? Basically want to verify the cell is still good before spending time figuring out a thermistor work around.
Click to expand...
Yes, you can on the r1.5+ sw. I'm not sure if the same is true for the r1.40. Disconnect the cell from the mainboard and verify if the temp reading defaulted to the 77°F.
 
C0d3Sp4c3 said:
Yes, you can on the r1.5+ sw. I'm not sure if the same is true for the r1.40. Disconnect the cell from the mainboard and verify if the temp reading defaulted to the 77°F.
Click to expand...
It does default to 77 with the cell unplugged. I removed the cover on the cell to expose the wires last night. Looked thru my stash of resistors but didnt have one that would work. I will cut the wire tonight to see if it does in fact function.
 
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I clipped one of the wires and turned everything back on. It started like normal and worked for about a minute then the “inspect cell” and “low salt” lights came on and it stopped generating. The actual pool temp is 67 degrees. Don’t know if it needs the resistance in that circuit to function correctly. Need to find a 10k ohm resistor to verify that. I do believe the salt is low and need to test it to know for sure.
 
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The cell might be worn out.

If the temp is being read as 77 and the water temp is 67, then it will affect the salinity reading (Makes it read lower than actual salinity).

Get a 14K ohm resistor and make the temp read 63 degrees to increase the salinity reading.

Or, do this.

1739923690575.png
1739923867494.png
 
Last edited:
Going to start with a resistor first to see if it makes a difference. No sense spending a bunch of time if the cell is worn out.
 

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