Hayward Aquarite Question

Was able to get some at work today. Tonight I will temporarily clip them to the ends of the wires and see what happens (weather permitting). Pretty sure my salt was getting low before and now we got a deluge of rain so it will probably be even lower. Guessing the higher value/lower temperature would cause a higher salt reading?
 
I think it's time for a new cell.
Resistors in series or parallel will do the trick or use a 20kΩ potentiometer.
I am currently using 13.3kΩ to trick the controller's temp reading at 65°F to get by.

Can you post the diagnostic readings?
 
It may be on its way out. That’s why I want to “solve” the hot problem enough to test it. But I also need to verify that there is enough salt in there as well before I write it off. Then if all the parameters are correct and it doesn’t work correctly I can start cell shopping.
 
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Lots of rain today. So I had to clean the leaves out and balance the water. I went ahead and added a bag of salt figuring it was low anyhow. Didn’t have the time or light to test the salt level. After getting everything cleaned up and balanced I rigged up 14k in resistors. The salt level began at 2100 and it shut down several times before it came up to 2500 and continued generating. The low salt light is still on but seems to be working for now. The pool temperature is reading 62 degrees now.
 

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To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity.

If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell.

For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%.

Check the cell and clean it if necessary.

If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.
 
Can you report all readings?

Cell Diagnostics

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

Default salt display = Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.

Pool temp

Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.

Cell current

Desired output (% of the knob)

Instant salinity = the cells reading of the current salt PPM

Product name

Software revision (r.XX)

Cell type
 
Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

Default salt display = Average Salt = the average salt reading of the last 3 cycles of the cell.

Pool temp

Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.

Cell current

Desired output (% of the knob)

Instant salinity = the cells reading of the current salt PPM

Product name

Software revision (r.XX)

Cell type
 

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Looks like the salt level drifted up some overnight. I expected it to as I had added a bag of salt and balanced the PH and Chlorine levels last night. Here are the readings this morning and the low salt light is off now and it seems to be operating normally. I do still need to do a manual salt test to see what its at. Also the actual pool water temperature is at 63 degrees now due to the rain and cold, so I sorta lucked out with my resistor choices.

Average Salt 2800
Pool Temp 62
Cell Voltage 26.5
Cell Current 2.86
Desired Output 25P%
Instant salinity -2800
Product Name AL- 1
Software Revision r 1.40
Cell Type GLX-CELL-5-W Approximately 4 years old
 
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I did manage to scrounge up a 10k pot. If the cell seems like its going to continue to work I will use that 10k pot and a additional resistor to tune it so that I get a adjustable temperature range of 60-90 degrees.
 
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Finally got around to testing the salt level and I came up with 3100 ppm. So if the instant is 2800 / actual of 3100 that works out to be 90%. So I guess it still has some life left in it.
 
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