Hayward Aquarite Pro T-Cell15 Reading Low Salt

[PullJunkie]

I think had a similar thread last year about this but never got anywhere. How does the Hayward Aquarite Pro calculate its salt level? My unit is consistently reading waaay low to the point where I have to hit the + sign every few days at startup to save a super high value so it averages out and is good for a few days. Otherwise it will turn on the orange trouble light and eventually won't turn on the SWCG at all once the level reads super low. But my salt is at 3200 using both the Hayward salt meter and the Taylor drop salt test kit.

Would a bad board cause this? or would the cell cause this or both?

 

[mas985]

The Hayward cells calculate the salt level from the amps, volts and the water temperature. Note that using the + sign really doesn't do anything other than replaces the average salt level with the current instant salt level.

A low salt reading is usually due to one of several factors:

Actual low salt level - add salt
Dirty cell - clean cell
Failing cell - replace cell

Since you have measured the salt level, then I would clean the cell and see if that helps, if not, then have it tested at a pool store. If bad, replace it. How old is the cell?

 

[PullJunkie]

Thanks, cell is not dirty and basically new, only used for about half of last season. Actual salt level is 3200. I use the plus sign because if I hit it right when the unit starts generating, the instant salt level starts out at like 4500 and quickly goes down from there. If I hit the plus sign immediately, I get that initial real high reading saved and it allows the average to stay where it needs to be for a few days. Funny thing is when I ordered my Aquarite Pro sense and dispense system, my cell did not come with a serial # or sticker on it. Went over this with place of purchase who gets their products directly from Hayward and they said they never had one without a sticker. They ended up sending another one as replacement that I have not tried yet. I guess I could plug that one in and see.

Other then that I am leaning towards the main board, I had an issue when it was installed and a authorized Hayward tech had to come out and replace the digital display on my unit. Wondering if whatever happened there, it messed the board up as well?

 

[JamesW]

They ended up sending another one as replacement that I have not tried yet. I guess I could plug that one in and see.

Try the new cell and report all readings.

 

[PullJunkie]

I put the other new cell in and it seems to act the same way. Low salt warning.

Readings:
26.74v
5.69a
81 degrees

The temp is always off as well. The heater says 86, unit says 81. I know it's not exact but is 5 degrees in spec?

 

[JamesW]

What is it showing for instant salinity?

Are you 100% sure about the actual salinity?

Is the new cell a T-15?

 

[PullJunkie]

The instant is fluctuating between 1900 and 2000. The new cell is a T-15. I am as sure as I can be with the salt levels with testing. Not sure how accurate the Hayward Saltmeter is, but just now its reading about 2570 and the Taylor drop salt test kit reads about 3200. Temp now reads 84 degrees, closer to the 86 of the heater.

 

[JamesW]

Something seems to be off with the system, but it’s not obvious what it is.

Get an ammeter and check the actual amperage going to the cell.

Maybe just file a warranty claim with Hayward and let them figure it out.

 

[JamesW]

Can you show pictures of the door information, the entire inside panel and the entire circuit board?

 

[PullJunkie]

 

[JamesW]

I think that the orange wire on the right rectifier is in the wrong spot.

It’s on the upper right and it should be on the lower left.

See diagram on page 20.

https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/troubleshooting-guides/ProLogic-Troubleshooting-Guide.pdf

Page 7.

http://splashottawa.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/Pro-Logic-Diagnostics.pdf

 

[JamesW]

 

[JamesW]

Also, verify that the 4 colored wires on the lower right are on the correct terminals.

They should be marked blue, white, violet and gray.

Note: Do not change these unless you are 100% sure that they are incorrect.

I'm not sure, but I suspect that you received a used unit and not a brand new unit.

 

[PullJunkie]

Ok thanks, I'll look at everything once I get home.

 

[wireform]

Are you sure the panel is still set for the T15 cell?

 

[JamesW]

The wrong setting would make it read higher, not lower.

I think that the orange wire is in the wrong spot.

I suspect that moving it to the correct spot will probably fix the issue.

It would be unusual for Hayward to make a mistake like this, but it can happen.

I suspect that the unit was probably used.

The original cell came with no serial number, which is suspicious.

New T-CELL-15 Instant Salt Reading Low

Hi All, finally got my system up and running yesterday and today will be the first full day it will be in operation. The average salt is reading 2800 and the instant salt reading is 2300-2400. The actual reading from a Hayward salt meter is ~3600 (slightly high). Should both readings be closer...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[PullJunkie]

Does it make any difference if my system is the Aquarite Pro and those schematics are for the ProLogic?

 

[JamesW]

Does it make any difference if my system is the Aquarite Pro and those schematics are for the ProLogic?

I don't think so.

 

[PullJunkie]

.....The original cell came with no serial number, which is suspicious.

New T-CELL-15 Instant Salt Reading Low

Hi All, finally got my system up and running yesterday and today will be the first full day it will be in operation. The average salt is reading 2800 and the instant salt reading is 2300-2400. The actual reading from a Hayward salt meter is ~3600 (slightly high). Should both readings be closer...

www.troublefreepool.com

I thought that was weird too. They didn't give me much hassle with getting another cell and didn't ask for the no serial one to be sent back, that's probably why.

 

[mas985]

Bridge rectifiers are symmetrical so it shouldn't matter which AC lug you use. Of course it does matter which DC wires go on each lug but if they were swapped on one rectifier and not the other, the fuse would have blown. In that unit they use two bridge rectifiers to split the current so the heat generated is a little less but each is only using half the bridge.



More than likely it is the K1 relay or solder joint. A cold solder has higher resistance so the current would drop and the salt would read lower.