Hayward Aquarite Pro T-Cell15 Reading Low Salt

I would still try changing the orange wire to the lower left to see if it makes any difference.

If it does not help, remove the circuit board and look for burn marks or missing solder.

This is still under warranty. So, you could file a warranty claim and let Hayward assign someone to look at it.
 
In that unit they use two bridge rectifiers to split the current so the heat generated is a little less but each is only using half the bridge.
If each uses half the bridge, why do they need two?

Also, your diagram shows AC voltage being applied to two terminals of the rectifier, but each rectifier only gets one leg of the AC output from the transformer.
 
GLB-PCB-RITE_Low_Voltage_Power_Supply.jpg


Based on this diagram, it looks like it might matter which terminals are used, but I don't know for sure.

Hayward seems to be specific about how to do it.

If the position didn't matter, they could just say to use either terminal.
 
As I said before, they use two to spilt the current and thermal load. They work the same as a single rectifier. Just imagine it is split in half and separated.
 
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The labels on the door seem odd. They are two different colors like they were applied at different times.

The label on the right looks old.

It says goldlinecontrols.com, which I don't think has been used in years.

Your front control panel also looks old.

I would check with Hayward to see what they can tell you.

I suspect that the unit was made from spare parts and it is not an original Hayward system.

The rectifiers look like they were replaced. Hayward would probably not have gotten the wiring wrong. They do it the exact same way every time for consistency.

The cell came with no serial number, which just wouldn't happen.

In any case, it's suspicious given the total number of inconsistencies.
 
Also, the display was bad when it arrived.

Yes everything looked new, but I did already have to have the front LCD panel of the Aquarite Pro replaced under warranty so maybe I got a defective unit.

There is definitely something wrong with the whole system with how many defects and inconsistencies there are.

Hayward would not send out something with this many issues.

Check the salinity a different reliable way to rule out low salt.

File a warranty claim with Hayward to have an authorized warranty service company check it out.

There might be something wrong with the circuit board, the rectifiers or the transformer.

Verify that all of the wiring is correct.
 

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I got the replacement board that I bought and I installed it, the system exhibits the same. I'm beginning to think that while I don't actually have "low salt" per se, it's just how their system is and I need to add a little more salt. I am waiting for some calibration solution for my Hayward Salt Meter. When dealing with Hayward and low salt readings, they do not accept any other test of the salt other then from their digital salt meter, at least that is what I was told last year when I had the authorized tech at my site. The last reading I had from that salt meter read about ~2500 which is maybe why the system would read low salt as well if its within 2000-2500 and the "acceptable" range is ~500 ?

I also heard back from the place of original purchase who said their Hayward parts "...are brand new units we get right from hayward and never installed." and their Hayward rep told them I need to go directly through an authorized warranty center to have the board looked at/replaced. Problem with this is that my local authorized warranty center is an HVAC/Electric shop and knows nothing about the pool stuff other then calling Hayward when they are onsite so they can tell them what to do.

So I would expect the same as last year when I called about the Cell having no serial # sticker. They come and test with the Hayward salt meter and tell me its out of the acceptable range and to add more salt.
 
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I'm still chasing this... I've added about 40lbs of salt over the weekend and my salt readings come back with this today:

Hayward Digital Salt Meter - 2900-3000
AquaChek Test Strip - 2550-2750
Taylor Drop Test - 3600
Aquarite Pro Instant Salt - 2300

What gives?

I still have not calibrated the Hayward digital meter as I am awaiting a response from Hayward on which standard solution to use; I have a 7450ppm singlet that apparently came with the unit but there is also 3200ppm units that are supposed to be used for it. No confirmation from Hayward yet.
 
Try a different drop test and get a different calibrated meter.

What are the current diagnostic readings?

Do you have a picture of the new cell that shows the cell size and serial number?
 
The current diag readings are:

~27.2v
~5.87a
77degrees (heater says 81)
2300ppm
ORP 605mv

I put the original cell (the one that came without the serial sticker, has no buildup and is only 1/2 season used) back in after when you recommended I test the new one and there was no difference in outcome. Still, pictures are below of the new (I assume reconditioned) T15.

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