Hayward Aquarite not generating after power outage

[ndakotaninja]

I have an Aquarite SWG and it's been working fine with no issues since I've owned it. I got all my chemicals balanced this year and according to my test strips (I did the test 3 times as I was adding salt to it over the week or 2 in May), I have 3120 ppm. A couple of weeks ago, I disconnected the power to the SWG and other pool equipment as I replaced an electrical outlet. When I turned things back on, the SWG had a reading of 0 salt and wouldn't generate, showing blinking lights at "low salt".

Through troubleshooting, I was able to use the instant salinity to set the current salt back up to 2900. This has since lowered to 2700 and has stayed there. According to the system lights, it's generating chlorine, and if I turn it to super chlorinate, the light for that comes on as well. There are no errors, and when I turn the system on, it still has an audible click as it starts running a current through to generate chlorine. However, last week the pool got cloudy, and when I tested the FC, it was near 0. I manually added chlorine, and since then, I've had to continue to add chlorine manually as the SWG is not actually producing anything.

I've tried various things like turning it to 'off' and back on, using super chlorinate, triple checking all my pool chemical levels, and disconnecting the power cord to the cell, and nothing has fixed it. So I'm wondering if my cell is shot (maybe the power outage shorted something out?), or if something else has to be re-calibrated, or if there is a way to 'kickstart' the SWG into producing again. The manual and various videos/forums I searched over the last few weeks haven't gotten me anywhere.

Thanks!

 

[JamesW]

For AquaRite, move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.

Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.

Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.

Report all readings.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

What is the actual salinity and how are you measuring it?

What is the T-cell size?

Is the T-cell size set correctly in settings?

To get the performance percentage of the cell, divide the instant salinity reading by the actual salinity reading.

You need to be really sure about the actual salinity reading.

You need to use a K-1766 salt test kit or a calibrated meter.

K-1766 Taylor Salt Test

tftestkits.net

Note that ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus use the Hayward T Cell.

However, the procedure to get the diagnostic readings is different.

Here is the procedure for ProLogic, AquaLogic and AquaPlus:

Go to the diagnostic screen, note the readings and then press the + button to reverse the polarity.

When the new numbers appear, see what they are.

Then, press + again and note the new readings.

 

[ndakotaninja]

Some answers first, readings below. Serial number for the box starts *5A0707, and the TCell starts *5E0707. The size is a T-15 cell. The salt readings for current salinity are based on initial readings (and salt level from last fall) of 1600, and adding salt raised it to 2990 and finally settled at 3250 on the last reading, using the AquaChek test strips purchased from TFtestkits.net. The reading on the box also matched that somewhat with a 3100 reading prior to the poweroff.

Readings: Off On
Salinity 2800 2800
Pool Temp 80 80
Cell Voltage 29.8 24.4 (drops to 17ish when first clicks on, then raises slowly and settles here)
Cell Current 0.00 5.06 (again, slowly rose from 4.9 and settled here)
Desired Output 72P 72P
Instant Salinity -0 -2800
Product AL-0 AL-0
Software Ver r1.40 r1.40

Doing the test a second time resulted in the same findings for both off and on.

For what it's worth, I've had it set on 72% and the pump runs ~8 hours a day currently. Readings from just before I shut off the power on 6/4 are as below. FC was holding steady since 5/9 and the only changes I made between then and 6/4 were the addition of 2lbs CYA.
FC 4.5
CC 0
CH 350
TA 70
CYA 70
Salt 3250

 

[JamesW]

The cell is 13 years old. So, it's probably going bad. The voltage is off enough that the thermistor is probably going bad.

I would get a K-1766 salt test kit and check the thermistor for cracks.

Replace the thermistor if it's cracked or if the voltage is erratic.

Replace the cell if the instant salinity divided by the actual salinity is less than 0.75.