Hayward Aqua Rite SWG

[James McCaleb]

I am new to salt water pool ownership. I have a Hayward Aqua Rite and a T-15 Cell. To be honest, the only number on the display I was focused on was the salt level. About a week ago I noticed that my average salt level had dropped from 3000 to 1500, which was strange because while it had rained, I did not think it rained much. So I added salt. Checking back in a few days, the number was not up so I added more. Yes, now I have a salt test kit. At this point I actually read the other numbers on the display. The temp is 72, the Cell voltage is 32.4, the amps are 0.00, 100P, -0 for the instant salt, AL-0, r 1.59, K -15. So at this point I realized I had an amp issue. I have noticed that when I turn off the SWG, then turn it back on, after 10 seconds or so I hear a click and the display shows that it produces amps in the 3.5 range for about 20 seconds, then another click and back to zero. At that point the check salt light comes on.

I'm not an expert, but I took my board out and I saw no burn spots and the back round disk had no cracks. I have read a bunch of posts, how do I know whether to replace the board or the cell? Or any other suggestions.

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

What does your salt test kit say the salinity is?

What is your water temperature displayed on the Aquarite?

Pressing the diagnostic button sequentially will display:

• Default salt display
• Pool temp
• Cell Voltage - When not generating, the voltage is about 30 to 32 volts dc. When generating, the voltage drops about 1 volt per amp of current.
• Cell current
• Desired output (% of the knob)
• Instant salinity
• Product name
• Software revision (r.XX)
• Cell type

Your cell is probably depleted. See if you have a pool store around you who can test a Hayward cell.

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[James McCaleb]

The water temp is 72 degrees. The salt level is high, over 4000 ppm. I called a local pool store, the lady said they do have the ability to test the cells. She did say that typically, if the cell goes out you get an error code, not just 0 amps. She believed it to be the board. Now I'm searching for a place to test the cell or back to my original dilemma, whether to replace the cell or the board.

 

[ajw22]

Post the 3 sets of diagnostic readings.

This is the basic information we need to know in diagnosing a problem:

• Report all readings when you..
  • Move the switch from auto to off and check all of the readings.
  • Move the switch back to auto and recheck the readings.
  • Move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
• What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

 

[James McCaleb]

I started with the switch off
800
71
31.1
0.00
100P
-0
AL-0
r 1.59
T-15
Turned it on
1100
71
31.1
0.00
100P
-0
AL-0
r 1.59
T-15
Back off
1100
71
31.1
0.00
100P
-0
AL-0
r 1.59
T-15

 

[James McCaleb]

After 1 minute it still read
1100
71
31.1
0.00
100P
-0
AL-0
r 1.59
T-15
I do not see a serial number on the cell. It just says Blue Haven. I believe the serial number on the bod is G1-011056G-1-A.

 

[ajw22]

How old is the cell?

 

[James McCaleb]

I'm not sure. We bought the house in February, so that's as far back as I know.

 

[ajw22]

It is probably the cell.

@JamesW

 

[DavidArmenB]

You can reset the average salinity reading (main page) with the instant salinity reading. Switch to off and then back to auto and wait for the click, then immediately go to the instant salinity section and see what that number after the negative sign is. Do this before the 29 second mark when you hear the final click when it shuts off. And get back to us.

I had an issue with my AquaRite T-15 where the average salinity fell below 2000ppm for some reason even though the true salinity in the pool was 3400ppm. As a result of the low average reading, the SWG would turn off after a few seconds thinking the salt is too low. After I turned it back on and went to the instant salinity page (which showed the correct salinity of 3400ppm), I switched to super chlorinate and back to Auto to make that instant salinity reading the average reading. This fixed my issue of it turning off every time after some seconds.

Having said that, if your instant salinity reading is just as low as your average reading, when either the cell model is set incorrectly (in your case it isn’t if you are sure you have the T-15 cell plumbed) or the cell is old/bad/worn out, since a symptom of old/worn out cells is showing lower salinity than the true salinity of the pool.