Hard wired remote for Hayward ProLogic controller? Which one? Expandability?

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If your control panel has only three valves that are available, then you have a P-4.

If it allows you to control 4 valves, then it is a PS-4.

PS means pool and Spa and it allows for setting up dual separate equipment.

Can you select Pool and Spa Dual control and two heaters?

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1631134126034.png
 
OK - let's work down that path, then - sorry, but this is a bit confusing to me.

This starts with me wanting an inside wired keypad - so, based on the above the keypad I need to control my four functions : AQL-WW-P-4, right? Looks like this ...

1631137937461.png

Some, however, have reported that this device would NOT control their later model PL-P-4 due to a firmware change - it would supposedly mirror what was on the main controller keypad, but NOT change any settings. But, this is when those folks started using P-4 and PS-4 interchangeably ...

OK - so, the one shown above should work? This means a P-8 should also work - and, would allow me to swap out the main board, add another relay and run at least a solar heating system?

Or, is there some inherent rationale that would dictate I swap the main board to a PL-PS-8, and simply get the same size wired remote for the PS?

Is this making sense?

As always, I appreciate your time!!
 
stephenson said:
OK - so, the one shown above should work?
Click to expand...
As far as I know, that is the correct display.
stephenson said:
This means a P-8 should also work - and, would allow me to swap out the main board, add another relay and run at least a solar heating system?
Click to expand...
The original main board comes preconfigured and you can't change it (without a special Hayward code).

All new boards come unconfigured.

They are all GLX-PCB-PRO.

When you install a new main board, the display board configures the main board.

So, whatever the display is, the new main board will be the same thing.

stephenson said:
Or, is there some inherent rationale that would dictate I swap the main board to a PL-PS-8, and simply get the same size wired remote for the PS?
Click to expand...
Your current system can operate solar.

For solar, all you need is a solar valve, which will be valve 3.

You don't need another relay unless you want to install a separate solar booster pump.
 
This shows the main software revision.

You can also check your display software revision.

As long as the new display comes with a software revision that is at least as current as your existing display software revision, it should work.

Any new displays sold should have the most current revision unless someone is selling old stock.

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The normal relays have a coil voltage of 24 volts DC.

If you wanted to add another relay, you could probably use the same relay with a coil voltage of 24 volts AC.

The valve output is 24 volts AC.

So, that can activate a relay if you wanted to connect a relay to a valve output.

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Here, you can see the 4 valve sockets.

#1 is assigned to the returns.

#2 is assigned to the suction.

#3 is for solar.

You can tie in the extra relay coil power to the #3 valve power to activate a relay if you want to close a relay when the solar is activated.

The valve socket has 3 connection pins.

One pin is the common leg and the other two are the switched leg.

You would connect the extra relay coil to the common and the normally open leg so that when the solar valve was activated, the extra relay would also be activated.

1631142076694.png
 
Nope - looks like Heater 1, Filter (pump) High and Low, and Valve 3 (which isn't used since I don't have any powered valves).

I also cannot select Spa with the Pool-Spa button - but the Configuration menu has selectable Pool and Spa setup (but this may just be part of the standard software), Config also has Heater 1, Solar, Aux1, Aux2 and Valve 3 ... does this sound like P-4?

In Config I cannot select Pool and Spa Dual - only as in the photo ...

In Config I cannot select more than Heater 1 .
 

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I think that you have a P-4.

It looks like the 4 relays are being used.

You have a two speed pump, so the filter pump relay is pump high speed and aux 1 or aux 2 is pump low speed.

The lights relay should be for the lights and the last relay might go to an extra pump.

Do you need an extra relay for something?

Do you have a spa or just the pool?
 
stephenson said:
but the Configuration menu has selectable Pool and Spa setup
Click to expand...
What are the choices if you go into that menu?

I think that it will allow for pool and spa with shared equipment but not pool and spa with separate equipment.

With shared equipment, you can run the pool or the spa, but not both at the same time.

What specifically is the system not doing that you want it to do?
 
stephenson said:
Some, however, have reported that this device would NOT control their later model PL-P-4 due to a firmware change - it would supposedly mirror what was on the main controller keypad, but NOT change any settings. But, this is when those folks started using P-4 and PS-4 interchangeably ..
Click to expand...
The Remote Menu can be Enabled or Disabled.

This feature will prevent unauthorized access to the Settings, Timers, and Configuration menus from any of the Pro Logic’s remote display/keypads.

When disabled, the remote display/keypads will only show the default menu and allow on/off control via the pushbuttons.

Note that the function of the Pro Logic’s built-in display/keypad is unchanged by this selection.

Once disabled, the only way to enable “Remote Menus” is to use the local display/keypad.

The P-4 can do pool and spa with shared equipment, but not separate equipment.

The remote should work as long as it is the right one with current software and the remote menu is enabled.
 

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Good morning and thank you, again, JamesW, for being patient and answering questions - some probably maddeningly uninformed questions :)

To recap, my system - pool only, two speed pump, gas heater, in pool lights, and UV device. No powered valves. Everything works fine.

Want to add now - a remote keypad inside the house. While I have specified wired, it could be RF, but since I have have easy access to run the wire, and wired are less expensive and work fine, it seemed the best solution. I have no need to operate the system from poolside, or while in the pool.

Considering add later - a solar mat system (the natural gas heater is very expensive to operate!). This is why I thought I would need an additional relay.
 
I would get rid of the UV system/device.

That will free up a relay assuming that the UV is taking up a relay.

The UV and heater don't need relays anyway.

The wired remote should work for you.

Solar should not require a relay.
 
Just received today - just installed.

I checked that it would actually control and was operational prior to running th 90' of wire :)

Once confirmed, I disconnected everything and snaked the 24 AWG phone wire around inside the vinyl soffit trim, through the soffit trim where it was REALLY tight (screen cage installed after house was built) - 1 1/2 hours with electrician snake and wire lube, down between brick and hardboard molding (with required chiseling to enlarge area enough for the wire width) to the covered patio, under the aluminum flashing above he brick on the deck, up between door frame and trim after enlarging joint with oscillating saw - gah - tried to get it into the stud bay, but blocked by four gang electrical box so ran alongside trim to the elevated position (above little kids, at least). Will probably try and hide with thin trim at some point.

Wire a PITA.

Remote controller just connected up the four wires - worked fine. No programming required on the panel.

I really wanted it inside, but this is close and easy to get to - I left 15' of wire tucked under the lower flashing in case I want to move it later.

959C39A8-553D-4C7D-8C04-3C007AEE1DE1.jpeg
 
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