Hal3 is back with a new (to me) pool!

[Hal3]

Hello TFP peeps!

We moved away from our old pool about five years ago. We just moved into another house with a new (for us) pool.

So happy to be back with my people!

Now converting to a salt water chlorinator, adding borax as before, and going full TFP.

My plan is to automate pumps, valves, and heater so I can control the system with Alexa, smart home timers, etc. I am going to try and do this without buying a $1000-plus system from Pentair or another manufacturer.

I have searched the threads but I cannot find a definitive thread on automating the Jandy valves from scratch. Suggestions and recommendations welcome.

More to follow!

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome back!

Pool Care Basics Archives

Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Hal3]

K-2006C arrived today:

pH 8.0
FC 2 ppm
CC 0.2 ppm
TA 140
CH 480
CYA 100

My concern is the CYA of 100.
I think that I just have to bite the bullet and drain out and replace 7,500 gallons of water out of my 15,000 gallon pool.

Any other suggestions for the CYA?

 

[CTFocusST]

You will want to do the >90 dilution test shown in link below as your cya could be higher than 100.

Water Testing Instructions - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Texas Splash]

K-2006C arrived today:

pH 8.0
FC 2 ppm
CC 0.2 ppm
TA 140
CH 480
CYA 100

My concern is the CYA of 100.
I think that I just have to bite the bullet and drain out and replace 7,500 gallons of water out of my 15,000 gallon pool.

I think you are right. Before doing that, you can perform a diluted CYA test as noted HERE. That should give you a good idea of how high over 100 you really are. Now is probably a good time to do the exchange. We've had little rain so the water tables are low and it's quite cool which is helping to control a couple other things in your water right now. But before you waste chemicals, do the exchange as soon as you can. If you can get the CYA down to the 50-60 range you'll be in good shape. The water exchange might also help lower your CH a bit as long as your source water (Edwards Aquifer) isn't too hard.

Once you do that, you can post a new set of test results if you wish. The two biggest things will probably be pH (keep in the 7.6-7.8 range) and FC balanced according to the FC/CYA Levels. Our water temps may continue to fall, so manual chlorine may be required since SWGs will shut-down, but it will be easy to do this time of year.. If you have any questions, let us know.