Greetings...Goldline INOP??

[Jeff Lebowski]

I have an old Goldline system. No idea how old it was here when I bought the house ten yrs ago. In 2014 I replaced the Circuit Board after the thermister cracked. I found the part online for a third of what Hayward wants for one. I used part No. GLX-PCB-RITE (at least that's what's on the box). The board itself has several other numbers.

At any rate, here is what it's showing on the diagnostic control panel -

A steady 3000 for chorine content. I added 80 pounds of salt a week ago and the reading has not changed.

The "generating" and "super chlorinate" light will illuminate but...

The diagnostic button which allows one to scroll through the various setting does nothing. It stays fixed on 3000.

A check cell light that will not reset. The "press and hold for 3 seconds" reset does nothing. It never resets.

What do you think? A new PCB? They run from 175-800 bucks with most in the $350 range. Or, simply put a new thermistor on my OLD PCB? That's super cheap and I have a "guy" who does this type of electronics work just down the street.

Or, with a system this old should I consider starting from scratch with a whole new kit (controller and T-cell) for 1300 or just try and replace the PCB?

 

[Newdude]

Or, with a system this old should I consider starting from scratch with a whole new kit (controller and T-cell) for 1300 or just try and replace the PCB

Yeah. Well, you know. That's just, like, your opinion man.

For real. It's a doozy too. Do you just start over, or sink money into this system all but ensuring you do it again when something else breaks shortly.

I think the term is 'throwing good money at a bad device'. There are no wrong answers.

 

[C0d3Sp4c3]

@jeff
Is the swcg wired for 120 or 220VAC? Can you show us pictures of the old and new mainboards? Make sure the connector on the display board is properly aligned with the pin headers on the mainboard. Next, test the display bd against the old mainboard. You should be able to scroll the diagnostics even with a burned thermistor in the circuit. You may have a bad display bd if it doesn't. But if it does, turn off the power and try to twist together the legs of the burned thermistor or solder a jumper wire across the solder pads of the thermistor to establish a temporarily closed circuit. Test away!

 

[Jeff Lebowski]

So after soldering in a new Thermistor to the old board I was pleased to see that the "check cell" light was out. But, I think that's just because it was electrically disconnected and reset.

The diagnostic switch still does nothing. The value remains fixed at 3000 and nothing will change it or bring up any other value.

Think I am going to bite the bullet and replace the whole mess, including a new cell. Start from scratch. Bummer.

It's an old system, at least ten yrs old and prob quite a bit more than that. Tossing this and that at it appears foolish at this point. I'd rather be out on the boat or doing something else besides pulling my hair out.

 

[Jeff Lebowski]

I bit the bullet. Replacing the box and T-Cell. My box is ??? at least a decade old and the T-Cell probably at least 4. So, I'll install the new electronics and try the old cell. If it still works, great. I'll have a new one in storage for the inevitable failure of the old.

A new control board was around 400. A new Digital Display another 150. Who knows how much a new T-3 is (400 or more?). While I probably could have saved a few bucks buying the whole thing piecemeal, at what hassle and with what warranty(s). I hit BUY NOW and it will be here TOMORROW and installed shortly thereafter. Then I can mix a cocktail and hop in the pool as opposed to chasing cats.

I read a number of reviews of guys getting lousy service from aftermarket parts and I am too old to go through this Crud every other year.

Fingers crossed this does the trick for the next 5 yrs or so.