Green water

[cookie316]

I am on day three of a slam and am seeing no progress.
Do I keep the solar cover on so that the chlorine doesn’t burn up by the sun instead of eating the LJ?
How often do I backwash? If I backwash, I have to add freshwater and then that upsets or changes the numbers

 

[PoolStored]

Remove the cover during slam.
Lack of visible progress usually means you are not testing and replacing frequently enough. Every 2-3 hours should show progress.
Backwash. Note clean pressure. When pressure rises 25% backwash again.

 

[cookie316]

27’ round.
Hayward sand filter.
Sweeping 2 to 3 times each day. Not losing FC overnight, but definitely have settlings on the floor and green cloudiness.
Testing and adding chlorine as needed every 2 to 3 hours.

 

[PoolStored]

Take the cover off, SLAM on!

 

[cookie316]

Remove the cover during slam.
Lack of visible progress usually means you are not testing and replacing frequently enough. Every 2-3 hours should show progress.
Backwash. Note clean pressure. When pressure rises 25% backwash again.

The pressure does not rise at all.

 

[PoolStored]

If you want to see progress, take a picture at the same time, from the same place and compare day to day.
Test and replace FC every 2-3 hours. Scrub everything. Take the cover off.
Backwash at least once a day if you don't see pressure rise.

 

[cookie316]

Several questions …
1. Since it has been 4 days since I last backwashed, I’m concerned that the backwash water discharged today was not green. My filter looks and sounds normal, but how do I know if it is actually working?

2. Do I need to add stabilizer now since adding more water to compensate for the evaporation and backwash loss?

3. I used well water filtered thru poly-fill (the bucket method) because we do have iron in our water. Will my continuing SLAM counter the potential iron?

4. I have dealt with high alkalinity (150) all summer. When attempting to lower it with muriatic acid, the pH lowers easily, but the alkalinity doesn’t budge. Could this be part of my problem?

Thank you for your advice and information.

 

[PoolStored]

1. Since it has been 4 days since I last backwashed, I’m concerned that the backwash water discharged today was not green. My filter looks and sounds normal, but how do I know if it is actually working?

Take a picture from the same place at the same time and compare daily pictures.

2. Do I need to add stabilizer now since adding more water to compensate for the evaporation and backwash loss?

No, but you should retest CYA and adjust SLAM level FC if necessary.

3. I used well water filtered thru poly-fill (the bucket method) because we do have iron in our water. Will my continuing SLAM counter the potential iron?

No. But higher FC levels may make your pool look green. Iron will not "cloud" the pool.

4. I have dealt with high alkalinity (150) all summer. When attempting to lower it with muriatic acid, the pH lowers easily, but the alkalinity doesn’t budge. Could this be part of my problem?

No.

 

[cookie316]

1.
2.
3. So how do I know if I have introduced iron and what do I do about it?
4.

 

[PoolStored]

You can get Taylor K-1716 Iron Test. But, it is expensive.

You can raise your FC, and use your polyfill bucket to remove it. If it turns brown, you have iron.

If you’ve got iron in your fill water, use Polyfill to remove it

EDIT: Found out this method only works if your iron is oxidized already, meaning it’s got a dull or bright green tint to the water, or a nasty brown tint. If you know you have iron in your fill water, but it isn’t oxidized yet, bring your pool to shock level and it’ll turn the telltale green...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[cookie316]

You can get Taylor K-1716 Iron Test. But, it is expensive.

You can raise your FC, and use your polyfill bucket to remove it. If it turns brown, you have iron.

If you’ve got iron in your fill water, use Polyfill to remove it

EDIT: Found out this method only works if your iron is oxidized already, meaning it’s got a dull or bright green tint to the water, or a nasty brown tint. If you know you have iron in your fill water, but it isn’t oxidized yet, bring your pool to shock level and it’ll turn the telltale green...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you for all your helpful input here. I have faithfully tested and swept the pool and added enough chlorine to keep it at the slim level every two hours for the last six days. His morning

You can get Taylor K-1716 Iron Test. But, it is expensive.

You can raise your FC, and use your polyfill bucket to remove it. If it turns brown, you have iron.

If you’ve got iron in your fill water, use Polyfill to remove it

EDIT: Found out this method only works if your iron is oxidized already, meaning it’s got a dull or bright green tint to the water, or a nasty brown tint. If you know you have iron in your fill water, but it isn’t oxidized yet, bring your pool to shock level and it’ll turn the telltale green...

www.troublefreepool.com

Thank you for all your helpful input here.
I have faithfully tested, swept, and added enough chlorine to keep it at the SLAM level every two hours for the last six days. This morning I passed the OCL test.
I determined that there was indeed some iron in the water, which I have seen a difference in since using poly batting in my skimmer in a skimmer sock. Now my question is, how do I know the difference between dead algae or dust on the floor? Is it possible with a sand filter to eliminate all dust? Yesterday I added 1,25 cups DE to my 18” Hayward sand filter with 1.7 sq ft filtration area.
Earlier, I questioned if my filter was working. It obviously is. Now, at the tail end of this slam process is it best to backwash often, or only when the pressure increases, (because I never see any increase pressure)?
Again, thank you for your help. I have been determined to prove the TFP chlorine only recommendation, and with persistence, I am seeing great improvement, if not completion.

 

[PoolStored]

Go ahead and backwash.
SCRUB EVERYTHING. Skimmer, check weir door for algae, take the ladder out and scrub INSIDE and out. Everything.
Do you have a robot or the ability to vacuum?
Continue the slam and use the robot or vacuum to get the dust out. Do not stop slam until you pool looks like this...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[cookie316]

Go ahead and backwash.
SCRUB EVERYTHING. Skimmer, check weir door for algae, take the ladder out and scrub INSIDE and out. Everything.
Do you have a robot or the ability to vacuum?
Continue the slam and use the robot or vacuum to get the dust out. Do not stop slam until you pool looks like this...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

Again, very helpful!
I am going to continue slamming.
I have a Maytronics Dolphin, but the directions say I should not use it if the FC is above 4ppm. ???

 

[Newdude]

Now my question is, how do I know the difference between dead algae or dust on the floor?

Unfortunately you can't. In the spring and fall you end up with lots of environmental debris thrown in there with or without the swamp and they both appear the same.

They've been turning over the crops behind me and I've been real poof-y for weeks when brushing. If I had alage, I couldn't tell one from the other besides any excessive FC loss. When slamming, you need to continue in the hopes the environmental crud stops long enough to be 'tfp clear', or you've passed several OCLTs to prove by a mile there's no overnight loss.

I have a Maytronics Dolphin, but the directions say I should not use it if the FC is above 4ppm. ???

The industry doesn't recognize the FC/CYA relationship. As such, 4ppm with 0CYA would be very harsh. But you believe in science so you're all good.

Slam FC for your CYA level is less harsh than tap water. Much less harsh. Maybe toss it in the pool after you spray it off with the hose.

 

[PoolStored]

I have a Maytronics Dolphin, but the directions say I should not use it if the FC is above 4ppm. ???

Throw the dolphin in, the CYA will protect if from FC. Good to go!