Got sick of Leslies bought tf100 test kit

[proavia]

Test the pH, TA and CH of your fill water and report it here.
Are you on City of Mesa water?

With our extreme heat for the next two months and a high CH fill water, you may not need to raise you CH right now.
When you do the CH test, continue to add drops until the last drop doesn't change the blue end color any further - and then subtract the last drop that didn't change the color.

Do this for both the CH and the TA tests.

Since you aren't using tabs or other forms of solid chlorine, your CYA won't rise. Liquid chlorine doesn't add CYA.

 

[Newdude]

Is this considered enough filtering when its 115 average temp out?

Temperature has zero to do with filtering. Well. Maybe. Because you need more filtering in the spring and fall and less in the mid season and that would correlate with temperature but in the opposite way as you are expecting above.

And by you dust storms may temporarily increase the need for filtering.

But yeah. If crud blows in, it needs filtering. No more, no less. Turnovers don't address whether you actually need 0.2 or 5.0 so it is a junk metric.

 

[jmurch]

The filtering info makes sense but is really totally at odds with everything ive heard in the past. So I'm pretty much just wasting electricity by filtering 6 hours at 3500 rpm and then another 6 at 2750? When I backwash I get a few minutes of brown Crud coming out which I presume is from dust storms / dirt. Obviously 1 hour at 3500 and one hour at 2750 isn't going to filter dust in the water so how to come to a correct time? Turning over the water is the only metric I know of to determine how long to filter.

Also this kind of applies to what I've been reading about my robot here too. I bought the robot specifically to brush the floors and walls. So I run it daily for its 2 hour cycle maybe again after a monsoon. According to some of the posts in the forum they should only be used every few days?

Thanks to everyone here. All this info is really helpful.

 

[PoolStored]

You have a vsp. Use it.. Filtering works better on low speed. Run your VSP on low (1400) for 24x7. That will cost you *maybe* $20 per month.

6 hrs, 2750 to 3400 is probably 1400W, for 6 hours and $.12/kWh, that is $1, 12 hours is $2.
24 hours at 200W (1400rpm), is $.58.

Filter better at low speed, lower electrical cost...run low speed.

If you want some skimming and it doesn't skim well at 1400, then find a low speed that it does skim well, then run at that speed for a period of time, until you are happy with skimming.

 

[jmurch]

@PoolStored thanks I turned my pump way down.

I just did a full test: (If some of the older stuff looks weird it's probably I was doing it wrong or its Leslied). CYA is for sure 30 and CC is for sure 0. I'm guessing I'll toss a couple pucs in to get the CYA higher?

 

[PoolStored]

How did you get a ch of 155?

I'd raise your CH to at least 200 to protect the plaster.. What is the CH of your fill water?

Lower your pH to about 7.8...With a TA of 80, I wouldn't lower pH below 7.8, and ph will likely be stable somewhere between 7.8 and 8 with a TA of 80. 60-80 is great for TA. Never let TA go below 50.

I'm guessing I'll toss a couple pucs in to get the CYA higher?

You can do that but it will take a while to raise CYA. We recommend raising CYA with dry chlorine stabilizer. Put it in a sock, tie it off, hang 6" out from a return.

When you change your CYA, your FC range change.

 

[jmurch]

I'll work on the PH. It was high from the original fill. I've dumped 4 gallons of muriatic acid in it just to get it down to 8.

 

[jmurch]

Long story on the fill water. The bozos that plumbed the house put the outside hose bibs on the soft water loop. The only hard water is pretty far away in the front where the city water main comes in. So I pretty much have to either live with no soft water in the house or live with soft water filling the pool. The pool loses.

 

[PoolStored]

Softener takes out CH, not TA.
Raise your ch to 200
Test your fill water