Got a swamp i hope this works.

[IceShadow]

Dead algae isn’t green. It turns a greyish color. Have a photo? If it’s not crystal clear you should continue the slam. If it is crystal clear but tinted green then it may be an issue with metals.

 

[Kickedweasel]

I took the cartridge out of my second filter and filled it with poly fill to see if there are any metals in the water. Finally got my Das powder kit in as I ordered the 2005 kit originally. My free chlorine is at 35 ppm with 50 cya. My goal I believe is 20 ppm so I am way over kill at this point. I'll lay off the chlorine and just let it run its course. Seems to be getting more blue. I did the drops that are x10 for ta. It still didn't change color at 20 drops. So I'm assuming ta is beyond 200. How bad is that? Could that reading be affected by the fc level?

 

[Kickedweasel]

I took the cartridge out of my second filter and filled it with poly fill to see if there are any metals in the water. Finally got my Das powder kit in as I ordered the 2005 kit originally. My free chlorine is at 35 ppm with 50 cya. My goal I believe is 20 ppm so I am way over kill at this point. I'll lay off the chlorine and just let it run its course. Seems to be getting more blue. I did the drops that are x10 for ta. It still didn't change color at 20 drops. So I'm assuming ta is beyond 200. How bad is that? Could that reading be affected by the fc level?

Ph is between 7.2 and 7.4 cya is still between 45 and 50.

 

[MITBeta]

Looking a lot better!

 

[Kickedweasel]

Looking a lot better!

It's not black anymore! Lol

 

[MITBeta]

Pictures are important. Sometimes it's hard to see progress hour by hour or day by day, but when you look back a week ago, it's really easy to see.

 

[Mdragger88]

Ph is between 7.2 and 7.4 cya is still between 45 and 50.

Ph test is invalid at fc levels above 10ppm

 

[Mdragger88]

I took the cartridge out of my second filter and filled it with poly fill to see if there are any metals in the water. Finally got my Das powder kit in as I ordered the 2005 kit originally. My free chlorine is at 35 ppm with 50 cya. My goal I believe is 20 ppm so I am way over kill at this point. I'll lay off the chlorine and just let it run its course. Seems to be getting more blue. I did the drops that are x10 for ta. It still didn't change color at 20 drops. So I'm assuming ta is beyond 200. How bad is that? Could that reading be affected by the fc level?

The ta test can be affected by high chlorine levels in that the colors are different but it will still change colors to indicate your ta level & that should be accurate. Don’t worry about ta - u have bigger fish to fry! Its last on the list.

 

[Kickedweasel]

alright I can see the bottom. Got the rest of the leaves out. I used a little water clarifier over the last 48 hours and that really made a huge difference. I'm now just brushing and keeping chlorine right above shock level. I think a quick vacuum tonight and I'm swim ready for the new england heat wave the next 4 days. Ph was around 7.2 last night when I checked before I brought the shock back up. Cya holding strong around 40-50 after topping off the rest of the water the other day. Should I let the fc drop now to test for ta. Where should my ph be permanently? Thank you everyone will post final pictures soon.

 

[MITBeta]

Don't worry about anything but FC and CC until you finish the SLAM Process.

If you're going to swim, let FC drop to SLAM level or slightly below.

 

[Kickedweasel]

Slams complete. Didn't think it would look this good. Where should I aim my ph from now on? Still keep it around 7.2? I'm assuming keep cya around 40 -50 ish. Fc around 7-10. Under 20 for safety. Where should my ta end up? I can test that tonight once fc goes down a few more points.

 

[IceShadow]

pH should be in the 7's. Anywhere in the 7's is fine. If you're using liquid chlorine to chlorinate, pH will rise over time as your pool off-gasses CO2, and you'll add acid to bring it down - take it back to 7.2 when it hits around 8.0. TA is mostly just a number you need to know so that you know how much acid to add - as you add acid it will lower, and that usually slows the rise of pH so you're adding acid less frequently as you go. You want the TA to be at least 50 to ensure you have some buffering and don't have an unexpected pH crash. There are some reasons to worry about high TA, but they're not super common, as it'll just reduce over time with the acid additions anyway.