Getting mustard algae and not sure why??

Aug 6, 2017
16
San Diego/CA
I have the following readings on a SWG pool, 35K gal, in southern california and am getting mustard algae in the shadows and on the steps:
FC 4.6
PH 7.6
TA 90
CH 290
CYA 85
Salt 4400

Can I get some input please? I just received some calcium chloride to raise my CH to 350 (19.4 lbs) and I can add muriatic acid to reduce my ph to 7.2 to drop my TA, but the readings dont appear to be that far off to cause algae.
Self testing with a full taylor kit.
 
Mustard algae is still algae so SLAM. Very high CYA so you will have very elevated FC.

Not sure I would add calcium. What is the CH of your fill water?
 
I raised the CYA because the TFP guidelines on SWG pools calls for 70-80 and I overshot it a bit. Also according to the TFP guidelines, my CH is supposed to be between 350 and 450. My supply water CH is 120. Would it be better to replace some of the water so I won't need as high of a clorine number?



Water Balance for SWGs

These water balance tips for SWGs will help you maintain your salt pool with the fewest problems. If you follow them you will probably
never need to SLAM (or shock) your pool and you will maintain a more stable pH then if you go outside of these limits. They might not
agree exactly with the manufacturer's recommended levels but they WORK and will help you have a Trouble Free Salt Pool!

First step is to adjust salt to the manufacturer's recommended range (usually around 3000-3200 ppm but some models do need a
higher level. Check your manual.) Starting out slightly higher (200-400 ppm) than the ideal level is recommended, since the salt level
will tend to fall over time.

Second adjust CYA to between 70 and 80. The biggest mistake that many SWG owners make is NOT having enough CYA in the water!
This can create a lot of problems like high acid demand, algae outbreaks, cloudy water, or early cell failure.

Adjust the SWG percentage setting or run time so your FC level stays between 4-6 ppm. Early evening is the best time to measure the
FC level when adjusting the SWG percentage. If the SWG is running at 100% and it still does not maintain a high enough FC level, you
need to increase the pump run time.

There are some advantages to running the SWG during the day while the sun is shining on the pool. Unless there is some other reason
not to run the pump during the day, like time of day electric rates that are higher during the day, program the pump to run while the
sun is shining on the pool.

Adjust your Total Alkalinity to 60-80 ppm. (This is IMPORTANT!)

Adjust your pH to 7.2-7.8 and not any lower. Monitor your pH and when it climbs to 7.8 add acid to lower it back to 7.2 - 7.5 (This is
also IMPORTANT!)

Adjust Calcium Hardness to 350 ppm for plaster and 220 ppm for fiberglass. Vinyl pools are OK if the CH is at 50 ppm or higher. In any
case it should not be much above 400 ppm or you are going to have to keep close watch on your pH to prevent scale buildup.
Sometimes your fill water will have high calcium levels so your numbers are higher than recommended. Not really that big an issue if
you maintain your pH as recommended above. pH rise is the ONE FACTOR that will predict scaling condition. High pH leads to scaling,
period! Keep pH below 8.0!

Finally, optionally adding borates to your water in a 30-50 ppm concentration will help with pH stability with a SWG, particularly when
the TA is run in the 60-80 ppm range and pH is kept between 7.5-7.8 but can be useful even if you go out of this range somewhat.
There are several borate products on the market--Supreme Plus, Optimizer, Maximizer, Endure, and 20 Mule Team Borax. You can buy
the last one at the grocery store in the Laundry Aisle. If you don't know how to use borates read this article on adding borates or just
start a thread asking for info on how to do it.

To summarize:

FC 4-6 ppm
PH 7.2-7.8
TA 60-80
CH

50-300 for vinyl (Do Not Add)

220-320 for fiberglass

350-450 for plaster

CYA 70-80
Salt 200-400 ppm ABOVE recommended optimum level
Borates 30-50 ppm (optional)

© TroubleFreePool.com
 
The recommended levels for CH are for those areas with low CH water. Here, your CH will climb on its own fast enough with evaporation.

You are right on the CYA. Sadly, if you run right at the minimum of 5 ppm FC for a CYA of 90 (round up) you can have an issue, especially if you have some low flow areas.

Up to you on the water exchange. If you really have mustard algae, the cure is a regular SLAM followed by a mustard algae shock level of 52 ppm FC for 24 hours. That is based on 90 ppm CYA.
 
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