Getting frustrated - new comer

[UnderWaterVanya]

With a CYA of 30 ppm your shock level is way too high. You should only be keeping it at 12 ppm. Let the FC come down to 12 or so and hold it there.

He also just passsed OCLT - that's good news!
EDIT: Now that he has passed OCLT I'd suggest that a new CYA test is done with sunlight with back to the sun and held waist high as is normal. The result of 30 was from an indoor lamp lit test which may have been falsely low. My indoor tests always run low.

He has an SWGC so assuming it's > 30 but < 70 he'll need to get some CYA from somewhere. Walmart, pool stores, etc are a good source for this right?

 

[Bama Rambler]

What does the water look like now?

If it's clear just let the FC come back down to about 5 ppm and add enough stabilizer to get the CYA to about 40. I'd retest it before adding any more.

 

[britishexpat]

just this min went out and did the CYA test, it is around 35-40

 

[britishexpat]

The pool water is crystal clear by the way.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

What does the water look like now?

If it's clear just let the FC come back down to about 5 ppm and add enough stabilizer to get the CYA to about 40. I'd retest it before adding any more.

The outdoor retest shows 35-40 he says. Doesn't he need closer to 70?
(SWCG)

 

[britishexpat]

FC is now at 10ppm that's a loss of 6 already today.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

FC is now at 10ppm that's a loss of 6 already today.

Sunlight can take quite a toll - most of us see a 2-3ppm drop per day but that is increased the higher the initial FC is and the lower the CYA is. Overnight chlorine loss is a much bigger problem.

 

[Bama Rambler]

Ultimately you want to be close to 70 ppm cya but there's no rush getting there. Lets let things settle down a day or so and make sure you have things balanced and then bump the CYA up a little.

 

[britishexpat]

Ultimately you want to be close to 70 ppm cya but there's no rush getting there. Lets let things settle down a day or so and make sure you have things balanced and then bump the CYA up a little.

The wife has gone out to buy some stabilizer. I also have muratic acid here to.
PH is 8.2
TA is 325
CH is 125

with you saying leave things a day or so, will I not lose most if not all the FC as I lost 26 yesterday which I thought was crazy indeed and already loss of 6 so far today, there is cloud cover today from which I am guessing why I am not losing as much as yesterdays scorching sun rays/heat.

how often should I go re-check the level today? and what do you suggest I do with the high PH,TA and low CH? Please?

 

[britishexpat]

also please note that the pool thermometer is on 90 degrees, I have not put the shade over one side of the pool as we may have storms in a little while, also my new fountain aerator will not be here until end of week!

 

[aa62579]

If you FC is under 10, you need to retest pH and add enough muriatic acid to lower it to around 7.2. Make sure your TA number is entered into the calculator or it won't compute correctly.

Not sure how many gallons your pool holds, but if it was around 4000 gallons, with a TA of 325, it would take 35 oz of MA to lower your pH from 8.2 to 7.2.

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Ultimately you want to be close to 70 ppm cya but there's no rush getting there. Lets let things settle down a day or so and make sure you have things balanced and then bump the CYA up a little.

The wife has gone out to buy some stabilizer. I also have muratic acid here to.
PH is 8.2
TA is 325
CH is 125

with you saying leave things a day or so, will I not lose most if not all the FC as I lost 26 yesterday which I thought was crazy indeed and already loss of 6 so far today, there is cloud cover today from which I am guessing why I am not losing as much as yesterdays scorching sun rays/heat.

how often should I go re-check the level today? and what do you suggest I do with the high PH,TA and low CH? Please?

Relax.

Step 1. Keep the FC above 3ppm based on this chart: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock. To do this I would target around 7ppm since you are losing FC faster than most. Higher FC like when you are shocking however is counterproductive once you have no algae - it burns off more quickly in the sun than lower FC. (EDIT: TO clarify if you put 20ppm in you lose more as a percentage of FC and overall ppm than you do if you put in 7ppm in the same conditions without algae.)

Step 2. If your FC is < 10ppm and your PH is high - treat it with acid to bring back down to 7.2-7.4 or so. See reply from another user on the amounts to use etc. Pool Calculator is your friend.

Step 3. IGNORE TA and CH for now.

Step 4. Get used to your daily chlorine useage. Then get the SWGC going. If you haven't already added salt you'll need to do so if you have the proper testing strips or kit to ensure you have the right amount.

Step 5. Raise the CYA and continue dialing in the SWGC.

Step 6. Send lots of pictures of the fun you are having in the clean trouble free pool!

Step 7. Read the article on lowering TA in Pool School - don't obsess about it... it will happen slowly over time as your PH rises.

Step 8. Unless Pool Calculator says you have a CSI (scaling index) of > 0.6 or < -0.6 ignore CH. With a vinyl AGP you can ignore the negative result also probably.

 

[britishexpat]

If you FC is under 10, you need to retest pH and add enough muriatic acid to lower it to around 7.2. Make sure your TA number is entered into the calculator or it won't computer correctly.

Not sure how many gallons your pool holds, but if it was around 4000 gallons, with a TA of 325, it would take 35 oz of MA to lower your pH from 8.2 to 7.2.

The calc indicates I need to add 29oz acid, pool size is 4600.

Thanks, i'll go back out and test again in around an hour. do I need to loosen the outlet flow valve to point upwards within the pool to enable it to aerate the water better than the current return flow of a few bubbles when adding the acid or can I just leave it as it is?

 

[britishexpat]

Ultimately you want to be close to 70 ppm cya but there's no rush getting there. Lets let things settle down a day or so and make sure you have things balanced and then bump the CYA up a little.

The wife has gone out to buy some stabilizer. I also have muratic acid here to.
PH is 8.2
TA is 325
CH is 125

with you saying leave things a day or so, will I not lose most if not all the FC as I lost 26 yesterday which I thought was crazy indeed and already loss of 6 so far today, there is cloud cover today from which I am guessing why I am not losing as much as yesterdays scorching sun rays/heat.

how often should I go re-check the level today? and what do you suggest I do with the high PH,TA and low CH? Please?

Relax.

Step 1. Keep the FC above 3ppm based on this chart: pool-school/chlorine_cya_chart_shock. To do this I would target around 7ppm since you are losing FC faster than most. Higher FC like when you are shocking however is counterproductive once you have no algae - it burns off more quickly in the sun than lower FC. (EDIT: TO clarify if you put 20ppm in you lose more as a percentage of FC and overall ppm than you do if you put in 7ppm in the same conditions without algae.)

Step 2. If your FC is < 10ppm and your PH is high - treat it with acid to bring back down to 7.2-7.4 or so. See reply from another user on the amounts to use etc. Pool Calculator is your friend.

Step 3. IGNORE TA and CH for now.

Step 4. Get used to your daily chlorine useage. Then get the SWGC going. If you haven't already added salt you'll need to do so if you have the proper testing strips or kit to ensure you have the right amount.

Step 5. Raise the CYA and continue dialing in the SWGC.

Step 6. Send lots of pictures of the fun you are having in the clean trouble free pool!

Step 7. Read the article on lowering TA in Pool School - don't obsess about it... it will happen slowly over time as your PH rises.

Step 8. Unless Pool Calculator says you have a CSI (scaling index) of > 0.6 or < -0.6 ignore CH. With a vinyl AGP you can ignore the negative result also probably.

Great info, Thank you so much.

 

[aa62579]

If you FC is under 10, you need to retest pH and add enough muriatic acid to lower it to around 7.2. Make sure your TA number is entered into the calculator or it won't computer correctly.

Not sure how many gallons your pool holds, but if it was around 4000 gallons, with a TA of 325, it would take 35 oz of MA to lower your pH from 8.2 to 7.2.

The calc indicates I need to add 29oz acid, pool size is 4600.

Thanks, i'll go back out and test again in around an hour. do I need to loosen the outlet flow valve to point upwards within the pool to enable it to aerate the water better than the current return flow of a few bubbles when adding the acid or can I just leave it as it is?

What numbers are you plugging in? I can't get anything to match. That should drop you about 0.8, but just want to make sure you are using the calculator correctly.

This is the closest I can come up with:

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

If you FC is under 10, you need to retest pH and add enough muriatic acid to lower it to around 7.2. Make sure your TA number is entered into the calculator or it won't computer correctly.

Not sure how many gallons your pool holds, but if it was around 4000 gallons, with a TA of 325, it would take 35 oz of MA to lower your pH from 8.2 to 7.2.

The calc indicates I need to add 29oz acid, pool size is 4600.

Thanks, i'll go back out and test again in around an hour. do I need to loosen the outlet flow valve to point upwards within the pool to enable it to aerate the water better than the current return flow of a few bubbles when adding the acid or can I just leave it as it is?

What numbers are you plugging in? I can't get anything to match. That should drop you about 0.8, but just want to make sure you are using the calculator correctly.

This is the closest I can come up with:

Notice yours says "NOT SETUP" - at the bottom you need to tell it what type of pool and what goal method (Traditional, Troublefreepool.com, etc.).

 

[UnderWaterVanya]

Great info, Thank you so much.

You are welcome - I'm relatively new myself with only a month and a few weeks of pool ownership and reading of the site.

 

[britishexpat]

What numbers are you plugging in? I can't get anything to match. That should drop you about 0.8, but just want to make sure you are using the calculator correctly.

This is the closest I can come up with:

[/quote]


Notice yours says "NOT SETUP" - at the bottom you need to tell it what type of pool and what goal method (Traditional, Troublefreepool.com, etc.).[/quote]

I have the calc on 4600 gals, FC 10 PH 8.2 TA 325 CH 125 CYA 40 TRADITIONAL POOL SET UP VINYL. SWG
you have the FC on 4??

 

[aa62579]

It doesn't matter if I have the goals setup or not - that doesn't change the calculation for how much acid to add to lower pH at a certain TA level. I did not mess with FC. I was only showing you pH.

If it makes you feel better, I changed the bottom and you can see it does not effect the amount of acid needed.

 

[jblizzle]

What is the confusion here?

With a NOW TA of 325ppm and pH of 8.2 and a pool size of 4600 gallons
A TARGET pH of 7.2 is 41 oz of MA
A TARGET pH of 7.4 is 28 oz of MA

The only inputs that affect the MA recommendations are the NOW pH and TA.

{EDIT: and the borate level can affect the required amount of acid}