Getting a Jandy TrueClear replacement SWG cell

[edgarortiz1]

Just a quick update. So I received my leak / dye kit. . Turned off the pump, and waited till the water was fairly still. Released the dye around the returns, light (have one), skimmer area, and all possible leak areas my wife and I could think of/see. Nothing! I couldn't get close enough to the two (2) main drain so I still need to check that area. In any case, I won't go into detail, I ran my pump at a higher RPM and it started shooting out clouds of dirt in the return! I figured, I think I forgot to rinse after the backwash Since I still have 3 gal. of chlorine, I started the SLAM process again R-0871 is only good for one more test

I'll be starting another thread with my leak issue.

 

[edgarortiz1]

Good news! The leak was found and fixed! It was between the light niche and it conduit. Epoxy putty was used to seal it. I will still wrap butyl tape around the wires to seal the hole for additional insurance Water was added since I did not bother refill and seeing if it will go below returns. But leak was detected before that happened. About 5-6" of water level was added. This morning, water level is pretty much the same

So back to SLAM'ing. I started yesterday PM after brushing the pool and the numbers are:

10/30 at 2:30PM
pH - 8.2 (added 14 oz. MA to drop to 7.5)
FC - 4 (added 255 oz. liq. chlorine to raise FC to 20)
CYA - 50 (SLAM FC level needs to be 20)

10/30 at 6:15 PM
FC - 15 (added 72 oz. liq. chlorine)
CC - 0.5

10/30 at 9:30 PM
FC - 15 (did not add liq. chlorine, thinking it's still mixing with the water (?))
CC - 0
CYA - 50

10/31 @ 6:30 AM
FC - 15 ( added 72 oz. liq. chl0rine)
CC - 0

Vacuumed the pool.

My FC seems to be stuck at 15 despite the adding liq. chlorine. But will continue the process and check the water at noon and at sunset. Water seems to be cloudy and not clear as when I did the initial SLAM. Thoughts?

 

[PoolStored]

FC - 15 (did not add liq. chlorine, thinking it's still mixing with the water (?))

Nope, chlorine is well mixed after 15-30 minutes. That was slam loss.

Water seems to be cloudy and not clear as when I did the initial SLAM. Thoughts?

That can be normal. If you can test and replace FC every 2-3 hours, that would be best.

Take a picture every day from the same location. Post those. We'll compare day over day and you will see progress.

 

[edgarortiz1]

I think I'm done with my SLAM. As you (PoolStored) mentioned, the cloudiness is normal and I just need to "stick to the (plan) SLAM"
Here are my numbers during the SLAM process

			31-Oct
	0650	1125	1400	1730	1930
FC	15	16.5	16.5	35	36
CC		0	0.5	0.5	0
TA		80
			1-Nov
	0630	0930	1200	1430	1740	2000	2100
FC	20	18.5	18.5	16.5	17	18.5	19
CC	0.5	0	0	0	0	0	0
TA		80
			2-Nov
	0630	0930	1320	1800	2045
FC	19	18.5	16	15	16.5
CC	0	0	0	0	0
			3-Nov
	0630
FC	16.5
CC	0

I added 10% liq. chlorine a little more than pool calculator (sometimes 10oz. more) but it wouldn't get my FC close to 20 except in the morning of Nov. 1. I guess the UV just reduced the chlorine. UVI in Hawaii can get up to 12. In the morning of Nov 2, FC was the same the night before but I figured I'd just keep going (it wouldn't hurt, just the wallet ). Again, FC was difficult to get up there and it was sunny the whole day. This morning, FC was the same the night before and CC is 0. Pool is much clearer too! (photos attached) Sorry, it was a little windy on 11/02. Can I say that I'm done with the SLAM?

 

[PoolStored]

Stop slam when all three are true

1. Pass oclt
2. CC < = 0.5
3. Water is stupid clear, like this…link—>How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[edgarortiz1]

Yup! It's clear and my wife also noticed the difference. Next step/s (correct me if I’m wrong)

1. Backwash
2. Rinse
3. Balance pool water
Some questions:
1. After backwash and rinse, can I start balancing my pool water?
2. Do I install and turn On my new SWG once I get my Salt level to 3000?
3. Anything else I missed?

Mahalo nui loa for all your help!

 

[edgarortiz1]

One more question. When I backwash, any recommended pump speed to help push dirt out? I have a variable speed pump and Hayward sand filter.

 

[ajw22]

One more question. When I backwash, any recommended pump speed to help push dirt out? I have a variable speed pump and Hayward sand filter.

Use a medium speed. about half speed, maybe 1800 RPM.

 

[PoolStored]

Some questions:
1. After backwash and rinse, can I start balancing my pool water?

Yes.

2. Do I install and turn On my new SWG once I get my Salt level to 3000?

Make sure you test the CURRENT salt level in the pool before adding more. i.e. don't just add 3000ppm to the pool...only add what you need.
Drop the salt in the shallow end and brush until dissolved. Allow 24 hours with pump on before re-testing, and starting the SWG.

3. Anything else I missed?

Why don't you post a full set of results. FC, CC, pH, TA, CH, CYA.

 

[edgarortiz1]

Message received.
I just finished backwashing. I was planning to backwash for at least 5 min. (I read in one of the Forum) but at just 2 min. sight glass is already clear. I kept at it for another min. Still clear. Did a rinse and more dirt (this was my FUBAR in my first SLAM - not rinsing) came out. Less than 2 min. sight glass is clear. Switched to Filter and no dirt came out of the returns!!! Pressure gauge still read the same, before and after and backwash. We hardly use the pool.

Will check all numbers after sunset and tomorrow before sunrise (just to check OCLT) then add salt as needed ( to taste). Will post numbers. Thank you again!!!

 

[edgarortiz1]

OCLT test was the same so I am done with the SLAM.
Here are my numbers. I also tested home tap water: pH = 8.0 and TA = 90
After testing the pool water on 11/4 (0630), I added 30 lbs of salt and 2lbs 12 oz. of dry stabilizer.
Salt has reached the level I needed and CYA also went up but still need to raise it to 70. I'll test again tomorrow.
Before I did the SLAM, I've been always adding MA to lower my pH and stay within CSI levels to minimize calcium since my calcium was always high.
I've read that I can keep my pH stable when I have a low(er) TA and to get my TA lowered is to aerate. Our pool is hardly used and no water feature so no aeration done. I plan to buy a solar water fountain (Amazon) to maybe help with TA levels. I checked my returns and they are not threaded so I cannot attach anything that I've seen in the forum.
Current CSI is 0.03 with my latest numbers so I'm good there.
My plan is

1. Install SWG and run it at 30%. This was the setting I had before I stated the SLAM. OR Check numbers tomorrow and then install my SWG.​

2. After seeing my new numbers tomorrow, I can add more dry stabilizers (or wait a little more?). Adjust pH and lower if necessary​

My target numbers are as per Water Balance for SWGs

What would you do if you were me? Am I missing anything? I'm now at a different stage and would appreciate any suggestions.

	11/4 (6:30AM)	11/5 (11:30AM)
pH	8.2	7.8
FC	12.5	10.5
CC	0	0
TC	12.5	10.5
TA	80	80
CH	425	400
CYA	40	60
Salt	1800	3000

Mahalo!

 

[ajw22]

What would you do if you were me?

Nothing. Go to the beach.

Am I missing anything?

Not right now

I'm now at a different stage and would appreciate any suggestions.

	11/4 (6:30AM)	11/5 (11:30AM)
pH	8.2	7.8
FC	12.5	10.5
CC	0	0
TC	12.5	10.5
TA	80	80
CH	425	400
CYA	40	60
Salt	1800	3000

Mahalo!

CYA 60 is okay for this time of year. By April get the CYA up to 70-80 for the summer.

 

[edgarortiz1]

ajw22, for someone who lives in HI, we hardly go to the beach and use our pool . We love it here because it's peaceful and serene.
Weather is pretty constant, either 88F or 78F (during ber months).
Ok, I'll check my numbers tomorrow and install my SWG tomorrow.

 

[PoolStored]

^^^Agree with Allen...

get my TA lowered is to aerate

When you lower pH with muriatic acid, it also lowers TA. Waiting for pH to rise (it will do so on its own), or using aeration will raise pH without raising TA. That is how you lower TA.

Good luck with the SWG!!!