Frustrated in Ohio

Jul 16, 2017
5
Akron/Ohio
I have a 28,000 gallon in ground pool. I have a salt generator and I've finally got the water clear but it will not hold chlorine for over a day or so. I've shocked it too many times to count with very expensive bioguard super soluable recommended by the pool store. I have gone through over 100 lbs of it at a $170 for 25lbs. The pool store is draining my wallet dry. That's why I've turned here to trouble free pool to try the bbb method. I've cleaned Aldi out of bleach lol. I have purchased a Taylor K-2006 test kit. I've got my ph back to 7.4 is was below 7. My cya level is very high over 100. What can I systematically do go break the so called Chlorine lock. My wallet is getting thinner and my frustration is getting fatter. Please help.
 
Greetings from the southern end of the state! I don't have an SWG, but another person will be along shortly to help you better. Welcome! I just looked at that Bioguard Super Soluble. Yikes! That's pricey! The Taylor K-2006 will help you get things on track. Post a full set of test results, like this:

Free chlorine (FC):
Combined chlorine (CC):
PH:
Total alkalinity (TA):
CYA:
Calcium hardness (CH):
Salt: (My Taylor K-2006 doesn't test for this.)

In the meantime, the best place to start is to take a look at Pool School (Pool School - Pool School) and PoolMath (https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html). Also, put your pool specs in your signature and make sure your settings will show it.

My initial thoughts are that with CYA over 100, you'll have to do a partial drain and refill. If it's over 100, it might make sense to use a water sample that is half pool water and half tap water, then multiply your results by 2. Tap water doesn't contain CYA, so this should help you get a better reading. Then, you'll know how much water you should drain. That Bioguard Super Soluable is dichlor, so it contains CYA! Don't put any more in there, even if you already spent the money on it! [EDIT: If you've added 100 lbs. of Bioguard Super Soluable, your CYA could be well over 200! Going forward, check the "Effects of Adding Chemicals" line in PoolMath to see what things do before putting anything in the water. /EDIT]

Hang in there! You've come to the right place!

~Teany
 
Unfortunately, with CYA that high, you are likely going to have to drain some of your water. Please read how to measure if your CYA is over 100 ppm Please explain how to dilute CYA test if over 100 The bioguard super soluble is causing your CYA to be so high. You need to switch to liquid chlorine (aka bleach) to SLAM Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain your pool. Read Pool School (button above). I know you are frustrated, but you have a good test kit and if you are willing to learn a little and change some things you can easily manage your pool. Stop going to the pool store for advice on chemistry. Please ask lots of questions.
 
hello to both fellow ohioans (Teany i'm in the west chester area)! Tbranham, the pool store should take back any unopened bioguard you have for a refund. if they are reluctant, you might explain that adding that stuff was actually making the problem worse, not helping. [as an aside, i looked it up and cant believe the advertisements are actually suggesting to use it for shock. wow. the more you add the more you need. if you are the seller, i guess that makes sense. wow.]
 
Welcome to the Forum!

That Bioguard product is Dichlor, and for every 10ppm of FC it adds to the pool, it also adds 9ppm of CYA. If you indeed used 100lbs of it, you have added over 200ppm of CYA to your 28K gallon pool, which is going to require a lot of draining and refilling to lower.
 
The water is clear so you are off to a good start compared to many that have posted here.

With a pool that large and CYA that high I'd start by doing several partial drain/refills or a proper SLAM could get expensive and you'll still have to get your CYA lowered anyway so I'd start there. My CYA sweetspot is 70-80 with my SWG and I'm pretty close to your location.

Do lotsa reading in this forum, stick to the system and things will be much easier and cheaper shortly. Plenty of knowledgeable and helpful folks here.

When you get a minute add your pool and equipment info to your signature.
 
Welcome from a former Akronite… and be ready to save lots of money!

If you follow the methods here, you will have a hassle free pool. I spend approx 5 minutes a day testing and adding chlorine and about 30-40 minutes a week with vacuuming/brushing.

I have found my TA/PH happy spot and have only needed to use chlorine this year. I keep my CYA around 40 (I don't have a SWG) and keeping my solar cover on when not in use, I only drop around 1 - 2 ppm a day.
 
A SWG is made to hold your FC at a number. Usually you need to use something else like Bleach to raise it. You don't list your SWG model. A pool can use 2-5 FC in a day. I am using about 3.5 now. You need to calculate your run time based off your daily usage.

You definitely need to drain for CYA that high. You probably need to be holding steady at 14+ FC depending on what your actual CYA is until you drain.

You also need to do an OCLT test at night to make sure you don't have algae using any extra FC.
 
Welcome to the Forum!

That Bioguard product is Dichlor, and for every 10ppm of FC it adds to the pool, it also adds 9ppm of CYA. If you indeed used 100lbs of it, you have added over 200ppm of CYA to your 28K gallon pool, which is going to require a lot of draining and refilling to lower.

I was just going to post this. 216 ppm of CUA plus whatever was in the pool. Depending on how long it's bee filled and under pool store care your CYA could be 300++
 

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Everyone here is so friendly and helpful. I plan to limp the other rest of the season. I plan to drain in the spring and have the liner replaced. I'm sure I'll be asking for a lot of advice on what to do with a fresh new water supply. I want to get it started with the right foot forward.
 
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