From blue to green in hours

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Brett S said:
Just a quick note that the results will be the same either way, but if you follow the 0.2 directions you will use more reagent, but get a more precise result. Using the 0.5 directions you use less reagent, but your result is a little less precise.

For example, say your FC level is 5.

For 0.2 you would take a 25mm sample of water, use two scoops of powder, and then use 25 drops of reagent. 25 times 0.2 = 5ppm of free chlorine.
For 0.5 you would take a 10mm sample of water, use one scoop of powder, and then use 10 drops of reagent. 10 times 0.5 = 5ppm of free chlorine.

Typically it’s not necessary to get down to 0.2ppm precision to manage your pool, so you can manage your pool using the 0.5 option and use less reagent.
Click to expand...

This makes more sense :) Thanks
 
Alright, updated with Chlorine test

  • pH 7.0
  • Alkalinity 50
  • CH not present (the sample didn't turn red, it turned blue, so I didn't continue with the test)
  • CYA is maybe at 100. The black dot was hardly visible well before the sample reached the 100 mark, but it could possibly be lower than 100)
  • 15ppm Free Chlorine (I should mention that yesterday morning, I dumped 2.5 gallons of bleach into the pool since Chlorine registered so low on my test strip
Pool is just as green as it was when I began this thread
 
So you definitely need to SLAM your pool. But unfortunately since your CYA is so high that means that you’ll need to either partially drain and refill the pool to get the CYA down to a more reasonable level or use a *lot* of chlorine. The SLAM chlorine level for a CYA level of 100 is 39ppm. Even if your CYA is only 90 you’d still need to get the FC level up to 35PPM and maintain it there until the water clears up. A slam is definitely doable at a CYA level of 100ppm, but you might be better off trying to lower it first with a partial drain and refill.
 
Brett S said:
So you definitely need to SLAM your pool. But unfortunately since your CYA is so high that means that you’ll need to either partially drain and refill the pool to get the CYA down to a more reasonable level or use a *lot* of chlorine. The SLAM chlorine level for a CYA level of 100 is 39ppm. Even if your CYA is only 90 you’d still need to get the FC level up to 35PPM and maintain it there until the water clears up. A slam is definitely doable at a CYA level of 100ppm, but you might be better off trying to lower it first with a partial drain and refill.
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Thanks Brett. So if my math is correct, and if Walmart will allow it, I'm thinking to raise my FC level up another 20-25ppm, I am going to need about 10 gallons of 6% household bleach? I've got a 25k gallon pool.

Should I turn my chlorinator off during the SLAM process? I'm assuming that the chlorine pucks are contributing to the high CYA levels.

Also, what about my test results told you that my pool needs to be SLAM'ed? Or was it simply the green that gave that away? :)
 
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DerekBooth said:
Thanks Brett. So if my math is correct, and if Walmart will allow it, I'm thinking to raise my FC level up another 20-25ppm, I am going to need about 10 gallons of 6% household bleach? I've got a 25k gallon pool.

Should I turn my chlorinator off during the SLAM process? I'm assuming that the chlorine pucks are contributing to the high CYA levels.
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Yes, 10 gallons of 6% bleach should raise your FC level by about 25ppm. However, you will need more than 10 gallons for the whole slam process because you will also need to maintain that high level for at least several days while you wait for the pool to clear up. Someone posted the SLAM information above in this thread, so you definitely want to read that before you start.

People have been having good luck finding 10% bleach in the pool section at lowes, home depot, and sometimes walmart. That might be a better option for you. You will need fewer jugs and stores don’t seem to be putting quantity limits on pool chlorine like they are with regular bleach.

You should definitely turn the chlorinator off during the SLAM process and seriously consider leaving it off permanently. It will only continue to raise your CYA level and even now your CYA level is on the very very edge of being too high to be manageable.
 
Brett S said:
Yes, 10 gallons of 6% bleach should raise your FC level by about 25ppm. However, you will need more than 10 gallons for the whole slam process because you will also need to maintain that high level for at least several days while you wait for the pool to clear up. Someone posted the SLAM information above in this thread, so you definitely want to read that before you start.

People have been having good luck finding 10% bleach in the pool section at lowes, home depot, and sometimes walmart. That might be a better option for you. You will need fewer jugs and stores don’t seem to be putting quantity limits on pool chlorine like they are with regular bleach.

You should definitely turn the chlorinator off during the SLAM process and seriously consider leaving it off permanently. It will only continue to raise your CYA level and even now your CYA level is on the very very edge of being too high to be manageable.
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OK. Yes, I read the SLAM process. I'll read it again. And again. And again. I'll turn the chlorinator off permanently and load up on 10% bleach from Lowe's right now.

Are we OK with my 7.0 pH or should I raise that up before SLAMing?

And last but not least, should I remove by pool cleaner from the pool during this process? It's been pretty windy and lots of leaves and yard debris is falling in there. I'd hate to clean it manually every day if I can avoid it.
 
I sincerely ask you to reconsider trying to SLAM with a CYA of 100. Technically it is possible. Realistically, not so much. Just the testing of FC of 39 ppm (80 drops of reagent) is pushing the limits.

I would suggest you consider an at least 50% water exchange of your pool water to fresh.
See Draining - Further Reading
 
Did you retest your CYA doing the following?

Follow step 8 in CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool

If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
  5. Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.
 
ajw22 said:
Did you retest your CYA doing the following?

Follow step 8 in CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test - Trouble Free Pool

If your CYA level is 90 or higher, repeat the test adjusting the procedure as follows:

  1. Fill the mixing bottle to the lower mark with pool water.
  2. Continue filling the mixing bottle to the upper mark with tap water.
  3. Shake briefly to mix.
  4. Pour off half of the contents of the mixing bottle, so it is again filled to the lower mark.
  5. Continue the test normally from step 2, but multiply the final result by two.
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I just did. The black dot completely disappears just before I hit 50. That's what I'm looking for, right? So multiplying by 2 I'm between 90 and 100.
 
DerekBooth said:
I just did. The black dot completely disappears just before I hit 50. That's what I'm looking for, right? So multiplying by 2 I'm between 90 and 100.
Click to expand...


Correct. So you need to drain or do a water exchange for 50% to 70% to get your CYA between 30 and 50. Then you can follow the SLAM Process and deal with your green water. Read...

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 

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ajw22 said:
Correct. So you need to drain or do a water exchange for 50% to 70% to get your CYA between 30 and 50. Then you can follow the SLAM Process and deal with your green water. Read...

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...

This is sad news. Oh well.

I have a vinyl pool that is 3ft in the shallow end and 8 ft in the deep end. Is an exchange safer than a drain?
 
I want to be sure you read the article I linked above. If you do not follow it, you will not be successful.
 
mknauss said:
I want to be sure you read the article I linked above. If you do not follow it, you will not be successful.
Click to expand...

Yes thanks for keeping me honest. I'm pumping out from the deep end and in from the shallow at the steps. The water temperature of the water coming in is not much different than the pool water temperature. I measured the flow rate out and in and they're both 1 gallon per 45 seconds. Not ideal, but I can't pump water in any faster. My pool pump is turned off.

I think that about covers it, right?
 
Ok. So you are using a siphon?
Never have done this quite that slow. So will be interesting to see how it works.
 
mknauss said:
Ok. So you are using a siphon?
Never have done this quite that slow. So will be interesting to see how it works.
Click to expand...

Yep siphon. I suppose the other option would be to pump out at a faster rate with a sump pump and add water through several hoses in the shallow end? The rate in is definitely my limiting factor.

I'll measure CYA again tomorrow to see if this is working
 
I suppose if you test the surface water of the pool tomorrow for CYA that might tell you it is not mixing. You can also check CH if the pool and fill water are different in CH.
 

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