Freeze Preparations (TX, LA, GA, AL, FL, etc)

I also have my heater set to kick on if water temp goes below 37. Current water temp is 44…..fingers crossed. Open to advice!
I would not turn on my heater unless you plan to heat the whole pool to 70 degrees or higher and maintain it. If you want that then start now while water temperature is higher - don't wait to near freezing. There are warnings in the Heater manuals to not operate the heater below 70 degrees (limit varies by mfg). It can cause condensation in the heating system and is detrimental to it. Just circulate water through the heater and all your pipes should keep it from freezing.
 
I have a waterfall pump that is separate from the main system (it does get controlled by the Aqualinks panel in my house) but I have noticed when freeze protection kicks on the main pump for the pool runs but not the waterfall pump. Should I drain the waterfall pump and leave it off or run it manually 24/7 until the freeze is over?

I'm in San Antonio, Texas.

Thank you in advance.
 
I have a waterfall pump that is separate from the main system (it does get controlled by the Aqualinks panel in my house) but I have noticed when freeze protection kicks on the main pump for the pool runs but not the waterfall pump. Should I drain the waterfall pump and leave it off or run it manually 24/7 until the freeze is over?
I would probably just leave the waterfall side off. If you run the waterfall, depending on its design water may get trapped and frozen in there as well. Just leave that side off for the next 2-3 days then you can turn it back on.
 
After this do you call it a day for the winter (until spring opening) or do you start the pump etc again when all clear from the freeze ?

I'm in middle TN and we will be out of town. I will be draining filter and pump. My equipment is above water level in the pool. Wonder if I need to drain water level below jets and clear the pipes etc or will draining the pump/filter and screwing in Gizmos be enough? Anyone's thoughts are appreciated. This is the first year not winterizing for us and all has gone well so far with just a tarp and a small lamp and a little pipe insulation. thanks
If you’re in Nashville (you’re going to get hit a bit harder than we are) then I’d try and make sure any above ground pipe is drained/blown out in addition to your other plans. Probably don’t need to drain water below the jets. I just drain below the skimmer and put plugs in the returns after blowing out the lines and skimmers.
 
I have a concern about the heater coming on in such cold temps. Perhaps @ajw22 can confirm if you should bypass it altogether.

I would not bypass the heater in cold weather. You want water flowing through the heater to protect the heater from any freezing.

From Heater Condensation - Further Reading

The Pentair MasterTemp Heaters says:

  • Operating this heater continuously at water temperatures below 68° F. (20° C) will cause harmful condensation and will damage the heater and void the warranty.
  • When starting the heater for the swimming season with a water temperature below 50° F (10° C), the heater may be used to heat the water; however, make sure that the heater operates continuously until the water temperature reaches the heater’s minimum setting of 68° F (20° C).
The Hayward H-Series heaters say "Do not use the heater to maintain the water temperature just above freezing or for freeze protection."

Pentair and Hayward have included Condensation Management in their latest model heaters.

The Pentair ETI Heaters and UltraTemp ETI Hybrid Heater do Condensation Management. Their manuals say:

The ETi® 400 Heater is a condensing appliance. The flue gases will produce condensate while in operation and must be drained correctly. Note: The condensate pH level is between 3.1 and 4.2, Pentair recommends to neutralize the condensate to avoid potential damage over time to the drainage system, and to comply with local water authorities where applicable. To neutralize the condensate, use an optional Condensate Neutralizer Kit P/N 475612 or similar. The condensate drain must be installed so as to prevent accumulation of condensate.

The Hayward Universal HC Series Heater includes Condensate Management. The UHC Installation and Operation Manual says:

In certain running conditions, any pool heater can produce condensate while it is running or sweat during an off-cycle. The formation of moisture on the heat exchanger depends on many factors including water temperature, humidity, flow rate, and ambient temperature which cannot be controlled. Because of this, observations of how much condensation is created by the unit will vary greatly. Consideration has gone into the design of Hayward’s HDF series pool heater to allow any moisture in the combustion chamber to drain out of the unit. Not allowing moisture to dwell in the unit will increase the life and reliability of your new pool heater. The condensate formed during combustion will be slightly acidic, about the same pH as a cup of black coffee. If condensate from the unit needs to be routed off the equipment pad or into a drain, the unit has been supplied with a 6 foot length of rubber hosing and a connection on the bottom of the exhaust side of the unit.

Note that the pH of black coffee is around 5 and Hayward is being disingenuous by not simply stating the low pH which is clearly acidic.

Jandy gives the following guidance in the JXI heater manual:

  • Do not operate the heater if the water temperature is below 40 °F (4°C)
  • Short term operation of heater when temps are below 40F can continue but continuous flow must be maintained.
  • Prolonged operation with water below 50F can seriously damage the heater and is not covered by warranty.
  • It is recommended that vent runs over 18 feet be insulated to reduce condensation and use a condensate trap in the vent run close to the heater, especially in cold climate installations.
  • If the heater is to be operated in below freezing conditions it should be installed in a protected outdoor shelter.
 
I have a waterfall pump that is separate from the main system (it does get controlled by the Aqualinks panel in my house) but I have noticed when freeze protection kicks on the main pump for the pool runs but not the waterfall pump. Should I drain the waterfall pump and leave it off or run it manually 24/7 until the freeze is over?

I'm in San Antonio, Texas.

Thank you in advance.
Do you have web access to the panel via iAqualink? If so, you can adjust what system turns on during freeze protection. I have mine turn on my filter pump and waterfall pump.

I have been thinking about draining the waterfall pump, since it's not used much in the winter. It will just be wasting electricity and aerating the pool.
 
Have a couple pieces of cut-up pool noodle or an empty plastic jug to place in the skimmer(s) should power not return for a long time
Dumb question. Why would we need to pack the skimmer if the water will need to be drained below the skimmer?
 
Why would we need to pack the skimmer if the water will need to be drained below the skimmer?
Many owners in warmer climates going through the unusual winter freeze weekend do not lower the water level and close the pool like up north, so the system is running unless power goes out. If it does, we take proactive measures to drain equipment, but the skimmer will still have water in it since we don't lower the water level and/or blow out the lines.
 
If you’re in Nashville (you’re going to get hit a bit harder than we are) then I’d try and make sure any above ground pipe is drained/blown out in addition to your other plans. Probably don’t need to drain water below the jets. I just drain below the skimmer and put plugs in the returns after blowing out the lines and skimmers.
GReat - I'll do that - thank you!!
 
In anticipation of freezing temps this week, I am debating whether to shut the equipment off and drain the filter and pumps, or keep them running on freeze protection.

I keep reading that 'water doesn't freeze if it is moving'. Is that really true? How does Niagara falls freeze?

Thoughts? Should I drain or keep the equipment running?
 

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I keep reading that 'water doesn't freeze if it is moving'. Is that really true? How does Niagara falls freeze?
Have you seen this thread?

 
Dumb question. Why would we need to pack the skimmer if the water will need to be drained below the skimmer?

Water can runoff from the deck during rains or thaws and pool in the plugged skimmer.

Also during the winter the water level can come up to the skimmer level with rains and thaws.
 
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In anticipation of freezing temps this week, I am debating whether to shut the equipment off and drain the filter and pumps, or keep them running on freeze protection.

I keep reading that 'water doesn't freeze if it is moving'. Is that really true? How does Niagara falls freeze?

Thoughts? Should I drain or keep the equipment running?
Running water can indeed freeze. During last year's event, our pool didn't freeze but I "preheated" the pool to about 80 degrees and the coldest it got was 30 (if I recall). Our neighbor's pool did freeze and eventually started to slush up/slow the flow in the pump so they had to shut down and attempted to drain (not too much success but had minimal damage). There were some other users/posters here in Texas that had similar issues.

I would note that this was the weather we had and it was much colder/longer than what we expect this time around. Also, the neighbors didn't have freezing issues until day 6 or so.

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Have you seen this thread?

Thank you.
 
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@Jg7xrad

I restart the pool after temps are not in the low twenties. I let the freeze guard kick on and go back to biz as normal
for the winter. Keep an eye on the weather etc. My pool has been through snow, ice etc. and no problems. It's
these crazy low temps that are the worst for me.

Draining the pad is only for very extreme conditions. Only the second time in 15+ years I've had to do it. February
2021 was a learning experience for me, and in a way, I'm glad I went through it. 😬 Will be different for you since
you're further north.
 
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Plans changed and I'll be out of town Friday when high is 20 and low is 9... Should I drain all equipment and put bottles in the skimmers for the one day? If Is home I would keep everything running in freeze protection. But being out of town with lows at 9 degrees and 40mph gusts has me a bit worried about the power...
 
Plans changed and I'll be out of town Friday when high is 20 and low is 9... Should I drain all equipment and put bottles in the skimmers for the one day? If Is home I would keep everything running in freeze protection. But being out of town with lows at 9 degrees and 40mph gusts has me a bit worried about the power...
That is what I will be doing. If I was going to be home over the weekend then I would just "let it ride" as I did last year. This time around I don't want to take the chance of some sort of failure while not home. I really prefer to not drain everything but I think it's the prudent thing to do given the circumstances.
 
I read through the thread, but sorry if I missed an answer to this question.

I have closed the pool and drained all above ground equipment. I’ve not drained the pipes but I’m not too worried about them. I lowered the water level in the pool below the skimmers and capped off the return lines, plus I have gizmos in the skimmers. I’ll drop a little antifreeze into the pipes too.

My question is about my pump though as it’s brand new this year and a lot more fancy that I’ve ever had.
I’ve drained it and cut the power to it, but do I need to do anything else to protect it, like covering it or wrapping it in something, or should it be OK?
 
do I need to do anything else to protect it, like covering it or wrapping it in something, or should it be OK?
After draining, there should not be enough residual water to cause any real problems. If you want to wrap/cover it just to be safe you can. You should be good. :goodjob:
 
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