Found out main drain uses 2” pipe… should I replumb my pad?

[djericharding]

Greetings TFP! First post here so let me start by saying how grateful I am for the wealth of in depth knowledge provided by the members on this site I recently bought a TF Pro test kit and have enjoyed implementing the TFP methods. The pool has never looked better!

My question relates to redoing my pool plumbing but first, a little context: We bought our house with a pool a little over 2 years ago and I quickly replaced the old single speed pump with a VSP and replaced the chlorinator with an SWG (pad is pictured). When I replaced the old pump with the VSP I just dropped it into the existing plumbing lines and unions. I’ve recently realized that my main drain line is run with 2” pipe right up to the pad which is reduced down at it’s 2 way diverter valve. The pipe continues from the valve to the pump as 1.5”. The 2 additional suction lines, a skimmer and cleaner port, are 1.5” from pad to pool. The single return line is also 1.5” from pad to pool.

So my question is this: would I see any benefit in replumbing this pad using 2” pipe on the suction side? I’m picturing 2” pipe for the main drain to a 3 way valve which continues as 2” to the pump. I’d keep the 2 other suction lines at 1.5” into another 3 way valve, at which point the pipe upsizes to 2” to meet the main drain 3 way valve. I also figured I go with 2” pipe from pump to filter and from filter to SWG because… why not? Is this a waste of time and money? If not, is there any better alternative approach? Any insight from those who are knowledgeable in hydraulics would be very much appreciated!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Modern technique with a VS pump is running at slowest speed for the pools needs. You don’t need big pipes for that.

If you don’t have automation then spend your money on that to manage your pump speeds during the day.

 

[Lake Placid]

What are you trying to solve? Typically in a setup such as yours without a VSP I’d choke down the main to 40 - 50% open to promote more suction from the skimmer line anyway….thus negating any increased pipe size from the main. It’s your money spend it how you want but if your pool is clear and sanitary with your current setup why a need to change it?

 

[Jimrahbe]

d,

You don't even really need a Main Drain, so what is the point???

Re-plumbing your equipment pad to 2" plumbing will not have any noticeable effect on how your pool operates.

Running with your skimmer shutoff does not make any sense to me..

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[djericharding]

Thank you for your replies and suggestions!

d,

You don't even really need a Main Drain, so what is the point???

Re-plumbing your equipment pad to 2" plumbing will not have any noticeable effect on how your pool operates.

Running with your skimmer shutoff does not make any sense to me..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Just to be clear: the main drain line is 2” pipe all the way to the pad. It is then reduced down to 1.5” at the 2way valve. So, I’m not just talking about upsizing only the pipes at the pad. Rather, I’m wondering if i can take any advantage of the 2” main drain pipe which was reduced down by the previous installer. In theory, if all I had was a skimmer with no main drain, wouldn’t that make for a poorly circulated pool?

What are you trying to solve? Typically in a setup such as yours without a VSP I’d choke down the main to 40 - 50% open to promote more suction from the skimmer line anyway….thus negating any increased pipe size from the main. It’s your money spend it how you want but if your pool is clear and sanitary with your current setup why a need to change it?

Based on what I’ve researched so far, I thought that upsizing the main drain pipe would make the system more efficient. I’ve been trying to understand hydraulics and head gain/loss but haven’t been able to “get my head around” how that applies to or affects this system. I live in Florida and even with a screened pool cage, my pool takes on a lot of pollen and bug debris this time of year. I have to ramp up the pump speed twice daily to clean the surface. There’s also quite a bit of dust and pollen that settles to the floor and i thought that improved suction on the main drain might generally help to pull in more sediment, especially if i can brush it toward the deep end.

Welcome to TFP.

Modern technique with a VS pump is running at slowest speed for the pools needs. You don’t need big pipes for that.

If you don’t have automation then spend your money on that to manage your pump speeds during the day.

I have a Node JS pool controller in the works, thanks in part to some very helpful posts on this forum!

 

[Jimrahbe]

d,

Our normal recommendation is to open the skimmer to 100%, and run the main drain closed, or only open about 5 or 10%..

I have three pools.. Two of them are at rent houses, and they do not have operating main drains. The circulation is just fine.. No one on earth can look at them and know the main drains do not work..

Just to be clear, my pumps all run 24/7 at low RPMs.. And all three pools are saltwater pools.

That said.. we are here to give you some feedback.. And you are free to run your pool however you wish...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[proavia]

All the dust and pollen is settleing to the pool floor because you don't have enough skimming action.
Set the valves for 80% to 90% skimmer and 10% to 20% main drain.

You can also use hairnets in the skimmer basket to catch a lot of the dust and pollen. This makes it easier to clean the skimmer basket and keeps most of the dust/pollen from getting to the filter.
You can get 100 disposable hairnets on Amazon for around $10.

 

[Bperry]

Thank you for your replies and suggestions!



Just to be clear: the main drain line is 2” pipe all the way to the pad. It is then reduced down to 1.5” at the 2way valve. So, I’m not just talking about upsizing only the pipes at the pad. Rather, I’m wondering if i can take any advantage of the 2” main drain pipe which was reduced down by the previous installer. In theory, if all I had was a skimmer with no main drain, wouldn’t that make for a poorly circulated pool?



Based on what I’ve researched so far, I thought that upsizing the main drain pipe would make the system more efficient. I’ve been trying to understand hydraulics and head gain/loss but haven’t been able to “get my head around” how that applies to or affects this system. I live in Florida and even with a screened pool cage, my pool takes on a lot of pollen and bug debris this time of year. I have to ramp up the pump speed twice daily to clean the surface. There’s also quite a bit of dust and pollen that settles to the floor and i thought that improved suction on the main drain might generally help to pull in more sediment, especially if i can brush it toward the deep end.



I have a Node JS pool controller in the works, thanks in part to some very helpful posts on this forum!

Changing the pipe wont make a bit of difference.

 

[1poolman1]

Greetings TFP! First post here so let me start by saying how grateful I am for the wealth of in depth knowledge provided by the members on this site I recently bought a TF Pro test kit and have enjoyed implementing the TFP methods. The pool has never looked better!

My question relates to redoing my pool plumbing but first, a little context: We bought our house with a pool a little over 2 years ago and I quickly replaced the old single speed pump with a VSP and replaced the chlorinator with an SWG (pad is pictured). When I replaced the old pump with the VSP I just dropped it into the existing plumbing lines and unions. I’ve recently realized that my main drain line is run with 2” pipe right up to the pad which is reduced down at it’s 2 way diverter valve. The pipe continues from the valve to the pump as 1.5”. The 2 additional suction lines, a skimmer and cleaner port, are 1.5” from pad to pool. The single return line is also 1.5” from pad to pool.

So my question is this: would I see any benefit in replumbing this pad using 2” pipe on the suction side? I’m picturing 2” pipe for the main drain to a 3 way valve which continues as 2” to the pump. I’d keep the 2 other suction lines at 1.5” into another 3 way valve, at which point the pipe upsizes to 2” to meet the main drain 3 way valve. I also figured I go with 2” pipe from pump to filter and from filter to SWG because… why not? Is this a waste of time and money? If not, is there any better alternative approach? Any insight from those who are knowledgeable in hydraulics would be very much appreciated! View attachment 563490

Would make no difference. You don't likely have much flow from the main drain when the pump is running at lower speeds anyway. You should have the skimmer open and shut off the main drain. The cleaner will act as a moving main drain to draw water off the bottom and mix it with the rest. That's the purpose of the main drain.
It would be good to paint your plumbing. Inexpensive flat Home Depot spray paint works very well. Also, use a scrub pad to remove the dirt/dust from the filter tank and then paint it as well. You can get a color similar to the tank now, clear (but it doesn't look good), but I use the same paint as the plumbing. Makes for a clean look and the fiberglass is deteriorating and the paint will add life to the tank.