If this has been asked here before, please help direct me to the thread. I did a search and didn’t find anything. I have a 15,000 gallon pool with a 1.5hp pump. 2” pipes. A clean cartridge filter. I had a Hayward 140k btu heat pump. The pool ran at 20 psI with enough flow to run three 24 inch waterfalls and two deck jets (about a 6 foot arc). There was no heater bypass. I replaced the Hayward with a Raypak and the psi is now 30 and not enough low to operate the water features. I had to install a bypass to get them to work. Odd to me is that I just need to barely open the bypass and it drops right back to 20psi and good flow. What am I misunderstanding?
Flow loss with a Raypak Heater
- Thread starter Grinch6
- Start date
6,
Heater always have some resistance to the flow of water. Some heaters or heat pumps have more resistance and some less.
I don't see anything about your situation that I find as unusual or odd. Sounds pretty normal.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Heater always have some resistance to the flow of water. Some heaters or heat pumps have more resistance and some less.
I don't see anything about your situation that I find as unusual or odd. Sounds pretty normal.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Jim R,
Thanks for the quick reply. 3 things got me to question this. I understand that different heaters add resistance but the difference between the two heaters was huge, and by that I mean one ran as though there was no resistance the same as with the bypass fully closed so it had no resistance at all? The other is that the new heater bypass setup is a simple 2” ball valve. You would think that the more you open the valve, the more it would bypass and you could see a varying degree of flow increase and pressure drop. That isn’t occurring. If the ball valve is opened even the slightest amount the flow and pressure return to the same as if the valve was wide open. lastly, the tables that Raypak provides says this unit and my 1.5hp pump do not need a bypass. If I had set it up that way, I wouldn’t be able to run any water features and my turnover time would increase by at least a factor of 33%. If this is normal, I’ll bite but I’ve had three similar sized pools in the last several years (I move a lot) and have had pentair, jandy, Hayward and now Raypak. This one is quite the outlier.
I like your avatar. What did you fly? I got a lot of time teaching in the T-38 but then went on to some other needs of the service.
Thanks for the quick reply. 3 things got me to question this. I understand that different heaters add resistance but the difference between the two heaters was huge, and by that I mean one ran as though there was no resistance the same as with the bypass fully closed so it had no resistance at all? The other is that the new heater bypass setup is a simple 2” ball valve. You would think that the more you open the valve, the more it would bypass and you could see a varying degree of flow increase and pressure drop. That isn’t occurring. If the ball valve is opened even the slightest amount the flow and pressure return to the same as if the valve was wide open. lastly, the tables that Raypak provides says this unit and my 1.5hp pump do not need a bypass. If I had set it up that way, I wouldn’t be able to run any water features and my turnover time would increase by at least a factor of 33%. If this is normal, I’ll bite but I’ve had three similar sized pools in the last several years (I move a lot) and have had pentair, jandy, Hayward and now Raypak. This one is quite the outlier.
I like your avatar. What did you fly? I got a lot of time teaching in the T-38 but then went on to some other needs of the service.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 53,951
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60