Florida Block-Pool Build

[timjs]

A reasonably priced DIY cover is one thing. Spending $12k to $15k to save some chlorine is another story. (At the next house)

A solar cover will stop most of the tree crud. It can all be swept or blown to a corner to scoop off.

Oh, the auto cover is also just a nice to have, and I have a thing for engineering stuff on my own, it's a hobby I guess. It's not just about saving some chlorine.

I thought about a simple solar cover as well, either will be fine I'm sure (solar cover, or the cross-bar design in that video above).

I'm just brainstorming. Working all week keeps me from being able to dig on the week days, but the pool is all I can think about!

 

[kimkats]

Well build away and share it with us as you do so!

 

[timjs]

welcome back!

If you are doing the foundation in segments, be sure you pin it well with rebar.

duraleigh, a few questions for you if you don't mind.

●You made your footing wide enough to accommodate columns to support the skimmers, and you then sealed them in concrete as well. Would you still go about it this way?

●I also would rather dry-stack my blocks to save a lot in cost, time, and effort. Did you have any issues with dry stacking?

●I may have missed it in your posts, but what size rebar would you consider for the footing? I'd assume the same size for the verticals and horizontals in the walls as well?

 

[duraleigh]

The footings were 16" wide ( I think) around the pool but directly under the skimmer, I made them roughly 20" wide and 24" deep. I then stacked the block on top of that so the block wall was about 24" deep. I leveled the "protusion and then built a frame out of plywood to encase the skimmer. (See pics 8 and 9 at this link....

An unusual pool build

On this cold, dreary day in NC, I hope you find this pool build interesting. My goal was to build a pool with the skills I was capable of.....that eliminated plaster and gunite. Also, I really like some characteristics of a vinyl pool so I ended up with this hybrid. I did virtually all this...

www.google.com

Yes, I would repeat that, The skimmers are still rock solid bonded to the wall. I pegged that pour with 1/4" rebar (as you can see) and I don't think they will ever crack.

I had a lot of issues with the dry stack. If I was ANY kind of brick mason, I would've done traditional block walls. Keeping the blocks even without mortar was troublesome.

I used 1/2 inch rebar throughout except as noted at the skimmers. Pretty easy to work with and probably again a little overkill but the "shell" remains solid as a rock.

 

[timjs]

The footings were 16" wide ( I think) around the pool but directly under the skimmer, I made them roughly 20" wide and 24" deep. I then stacked the block on top of that so the block wall was about 24" deep. I leveled the "protusion and then built a frame out of plywood to encase the skimmer. (See pics 8 and 9 at this link....

An unusual pool build

On this cold, dreary day in NC, I hope you find this pool build interesting. My goal was to build a pool with the skills I was capable of.....that eliminated plaster and gunite. Also, I really like some characteristics of a vinyl pool so I ended up with this hybrid. I did virtually all this...

www.google.com

Yes, I would repeat that, The skimmers are still rock solid bonded to the wall. I pegged that pour with 1/4" rebar (as you can see) and I don't think they will ever crack.

I had a lot of issues with the dry stack. If I was ANY kind of brick mason, I would've done traditional block walls. Keeping the blocks even without mortar was troublesome.

I used 1/2 inch rebar throughout except as noted at the skimmers. Pretty easy to work with and probably again a little overkill but the "shell" remains solid as a rock.

I read through your thread again (for like the 5th time, it's good stuff). Looks like the majority of your footing is framed up with 2x8s? Maybe 2x10s?
I'm trying to decide how thick I really need the footer to be. My walls only need to be 6 courses tall since I'm going with a traditional hopper. The block only needs to replace the old plastic walls. Truth is, there's probably very little load on the footer. The water bears down on the floor, not the walls after all.
I'll take your lead as well by building up from the footer to support the skimmer, but I'll take it one step further. I'll build a support system for the decking as well. I have ZERO intention on spending the cash on gravel backfill. The smarter method is build deck supports that bear down onto the footer. Decking will only be about 3ft wide.

I saw someone asked you in your previous thread but it went unanswered, how did you go about making the holes for the lighting and water returns?

 

[duraleigh]

I think my concrete was wa-a-a-y overkill. A pool your size 6x14 or 8x16 should be plenty for the footer. Be sure to put one or two runs of rebar in it.

Be careful with your backfill material. soil settles unless the compaction is REALLY good. 3' Decking shouldn't be much of an issue but concrete without support cracks easily.

I drilled the returns with a 2" inch core drill and then inserted the 1.5" pvc into that hole and then poured the "block fill" concrete. I made a little collar around the pipe to prevent concrete leaking out during the pour.

I left about an 8" space on the row where I wanted the niches and the niches fit into that hole and I anchored them with "ears" that were part of the niche

 

[timjs]

I think my concrete was wa-a-a-y overkill. A pool your size 6x14 or 8x16 should be plenty for the footer. Be sure to put one or two runs of rebar in it.

Be careful with your backfill material. soil settles unless the compaction is REALLY good. 3' Decking shouldn't be much of an issue but concrete without support cracks easily.

I drilled the returns with a 2" inch core drill and then inserted the 1.5" pvc into that hole and then poured the "block fill" concrete. I made a little collar around the pipe to prevent concrete leaking out during the pour.

I left about an 8" space on the row where I wanted the niches and the niches fit into that hole and I anchored them with "ears" that were part of the niche

Thanks, good info on the returns and niches. 8x16 with two runs of #3 or #4 rebar should be fine I think. The soil settling is 100% guaranteed no matter what I do. No point in trying to fight it with compaction, gravel, etc.
That's why I'd rather build deck supports right up off the footer to hold the deck up. The soil underneath will settle, and a void will open up below the deck..but who cares? In fact, seems a lot of the vinyl pool kits use the same method. (See pic I snagged from the internet)

 

[duraleigh]

I can't remember how much it took..........I think 3 loads of #57 clean rock but I went ahead and bit the bullet for rock backfill. As you can see from the pics, I had about 2500 sq ft of decking that extended least 7 feet from the pool.

The soil settling is 100% guaranteed no matter what I do.

If you are putting it on virgin soil, the #57 rock will NOT compact to any noticeable degree and you will save a lot of time. I hear you about the cost of the backfill, though.

 

[Newdude]

Another option that they use by me is sono tubes down to undisturbed earth. It basically turns the patio into a bridge so that the ground beneath it can settle and it supports itself.

 

[timjs]

I can't remember how much it took..........I think 3 loads of #57 clean rock but I went ahead and bit the bullet for rock backfill. As you can see from the pics, I had about 2500 sq ft of decking that extended least 7 feet from the pool.

If you are putting it on virgin soil, the #57 rock will NOT compact to any noticeable degree and you will save a lot of time. I hear you about the cost of the backfill, though.

Since I'm removing an existing pool and building in sand, it's hard to know what's virigin without going down way further. Also, the water table just went up to 4ft below grade thanks to this past week of constant rain. That's something I'm hoping 3 or 4 well points can keep under control. As of now, my dig is under water. Your use of gravel and rock is certainly warranted considering the massive span of your decking. Such a wonderful job man!

Another option that they use by me is sono tubes down to undisturbed earth. It basically turns the patio into a bridge so that the ground beneath it can settle and it supports itself.

Yes! I saw this just the other day, while googling "soil settling concrete cracks". Certainly an option.

 

[duraleigh]

Since I'm removing an existing pool and building in sand, it's hard to know what's virigin without going down way further. Also, the water table just went up to 4ft below grade thanks to this past week of constant rain. That's something I'm hoping 3 or 4 well points can keep under control.

Knowing this, I am inclined to think your choice of support is absolutely correct. I also agree that you will need the wellpoints and that they will work just fine. You are one the right path! Keep us posted!

 

[timjs]

Update time! The water table dropped low enough to do more digging, Thanks to a few days without significant amounts of rain.
The debris and trash sitting around is unbearable, I need to get it hauled off so I can focus on the dig better.

 

[Casey]

Go big or go home. Nobody ever said I wish I built a smaller pool. They always wished for a bigger one.

 

[timjs]

Go big or go home. Nobody ever said I wish I built a smaller pool. They always wished for a bigger one.

Haha, yeah. I don't want to be the person wishing I went bigger.

 

[timjs]

Hey guys, just another video update for ya. I'm REALLY starting to see just how big this pool is going to be! Pretty soon I'll be framing up a footer for these blocks.. Another thing I've never done before, just learning as I go.

 

[kimkats]

That is going to be HUGE when you are done! SO much fun to be have!!!

 

[timjs]

That is going to be HUGE when you are done! SO much fun to be have!!!

We're already stocking up on pool toys! haha. I don't even have kids, the toys are mine!

 

[kimkats]

Make sure to get the Watermelon Ball! The BEST water game out there!

 

[timjs]

Make sure to get the Watermelon Ball! The BEST water game out there!

I had to google that one. Looks like a blast!
Anywho, here's where it stands now.

@duraleigh Looks like your blocks are aligned to the edge of your footing. I'll have to do the same since I'm going to use a hopper. Otherwise the sloped floor would intersect with the footing.
Actually, is there any reason you can think of that I shouldn't just use the footing itself as the bottom course of the wall? I can't think of any reason why not. The floor and the walls would be decoupled anyways.

 

[timjs]

I'm losing the battle with water.
Any guidance?