Flood!!!!!! Temporary closed.

akenis

Well-known member
May 12, 2008
91
FL
Finally had my pool perfect last week! Friday morning it was 3 ft under the storm surge in Florida. Looks the same as the intercoastal Creek now. Got partial back the next day. All equipment was submerged, except SWG pack. Heat pump also.

1. Got power to Pentair veriflow and started pumping out to waste. Good progress. Later pump would stop with 1A code. Sometimes it would reset and work a bit. At one point, I had the breaker above the pump off and the lights on pump stayed on. Plan to check for good 240 going to pump. Take cover off and see if electronics a moist.

2. Assuming I can get the pump running consistently, do I treat this as a normal algae slam process, or is there a requirement to drain and fill. Not sure how I do that. We are right on the water.

Thanks. Wil check soon.
 
For the water, treat it like a normal SLAM but in a flood you typically have to deal with debris removal.

You also have to worry about the equipment and getting all of that up and running/fixed. If you do have extended downtime of your equipment, make sure you are still adding chlorine to your pool (~5 ppm per day) to keep any algae at bay. The best way to do that is by liquid chlorine then at least a good stir with the brush. If you have a robot cleaner that can run independently of your equipment, that's even better.

Good luck with everything.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dirk and akenis
Test your salt, it may be sea water or mostly sea water.

If your salt is much above 4000, you'll need to exchange the proportionate amount to be back in range. (Possibly most of the pool)

The rest gets slam'd and filtered. Any settlement you can vac to waste is always helpful too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dirk and akenis
Any thoughts on Pentair 1A error. It's got good 240 at the internal connections. Impellers not blocked. I can spin with hex from the miter end.

Have heard pump may work for a while sometimes, but will eventually fail prematurely. Should I try to find motor and control replacement that bolts into my pump housing? Need to get back up and running soon.

Same problems with washer, fridge and ice maker ....... Try and get fixed or just replace ASAP.
 
Same problems with washer, fridge and ice maker ....... Try and get fixed or just replace ASAP.
It depends how much money they need thrown at them in an attempt to fix them.

I would not put much money into a compromised appliance, but many have the same problem at the moment so new machines / equipment will be scarce for a while.
Have heard pump may work for a while sometimes, but will eventually fail prematurely. Should I try to find motor and control replacement that bolts into my pump housing? Need to get back up and running soon.
If it works I'd leave it alone until it doesn't. I wouldn't buy the replacement until it was needed because of a shorter/no warranty if you don't need it soon.
 
It depends how much money they need thrown at them in an attempt to fix them.

I would not put much money into a compromised appliance, but many have the same problem at the moment so new machines / equipment will be scarce for a while.

If it works I'd leave it alone until it doesn't. I wouldn't buy the replacement until it was needed because of a shorter/no warranty if you don't need it soon.
Doesn't work. 1A code. Took my Matronics cleaner power pack apart and cleaned. Will try to get her in later and add CL.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
For my matronics cleaner, I disassembled two power packs that were underwater during the flood dried them out. They were perfectly clean. One of them was broken before the flood. The other one was fine. The one that was fine exploded after plugging it in and the one that was broken is still broken.

I now have the matronics running sucking out debris from the pool from a local source. He gave me a good deal on the matronics power pack.

I also put an order for a Pentair pump replacement. He said it will be here tomorrow.

I am now draining some of the salt water from the creek via siphon at a slow rate. I am concerned about how much I am able to drain in an effort to reduce the salinity. Maybe leave 2 ft in the shallow end and four or 6 ft in the deep end?

As others specified earlier in this thread, my goal is to get the salinity down to 4,000 parts per million via partial drains and refills. Not sure how many partial drains this is going to take. The more I can drain the more I can refill..
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
The other question is debating two different theories on chlorine at this point. Should I chlorinate now as I'm trying to drain which means I am wasting chlorine. Or should I wait until my salinity is down and then go into slam? My local guy said that the extreme salinity in the pool right now will keep algae at Bay.
 
Matronics cleaner (nick named Maggie in honor of Margaret at Marina) has been going full duty. Installed new Pentair pump today allowing me to drain out down to 1" of water at shallow end (don't want to risk draining more and popping pool up.)

Got refill and skimming now. Maggie going overnight.

So who can do the math. Given an 18000 pool with 9000 ppm salt, how much to drain to yield 3500 ppm salt??????????

Give me a number for gal to remove and I can run pump m minutes from my known flow rate at each rpm.
 
Maggie and pump were running. Then Maggie got lazy and stopped. New power pack wtf!

Ripped of the back cover and saw compeller completely clogged up.

Back in business. Just need to know how many gallons to drain to get to 3500ppm.

FYI.... Neighbors are paying $2K to do this. I should start a side business.

Really just an exercise in relaxation....take a break from removing water from the house.

Dumpster comes tomorrow and major demolition....walls, cabinets and floors. At least pool will be nice. Maybe wife will appreciate that at some point... But not now.
 
So who can do the math. Given an 18000 pool with 9000 ppm salt, how much to drain to yield 3500 ppm salt??????????
Its linear, so to go from 9,000 ppm salt to 3,500 ppm, that's a reduction of 60%. You would need to drain 60% of your pool (10.8k gallons of an 18k pool).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Always overshoot the target because if you miss, your subsequent drain will be draining an equal proportion of all that new water and the efficiency will be reduced as much.

Its much easier/cheaper to add some salt back than to drain 25%(?) more because you fell 10% short.
 
Thanks so much all. Got Pentair running all night. Good skim. Cleaned Maggie and filter. Just finished another drain down to 1" in shallow end. Should be full in a few hours. Will do full chem check and start the SLAM.

Gulfstream Heat pump was under also. Gonna call them to check it over before turning it on.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20241001_230001957.jpg
    PXL_20241001_230001957.jpg
    744.7 KB · Views: 5
  • Like
Reactions: Newdude
Ok, after second drain, results are in. Check my logs in signature.

Salt down to only 4600. Jandy says 3000-3500. Damage above 6000 or something. Going to prioritize cleaning water and drain some more later before I turn on Jandy

Need to bring pH down to 7.2 for SLAM.

Not understanding the very low calcium. Normally tap water is 250 ppm. Tested it now at about 150 ppm. Had soft water generator in bypass mode. Weird.

So plan is to down the pH. SLAM at 10 ppm. Continue brushing and keeping Maggie at work.
 
OK...slamming now! Feeling sorry for my neighbor who has my boat in his pool. He can't drain.

People are paying $1,500 to $2,000 to fix their pools. My neighbor told me someone told her she needed to do an acid wash? Not sure what that is and how much it costs. I told her it sounded like BS. Wouldn't 7.2 pH during the SLAM with active brushing take care of things?

Not looking too bad now... Might take a sip soon.
 

Attachments

  • Sep_30_2024_11_28_47_2.jpg
    Sep_30_2024_11_28_47_2.jpg
    100.5 KB · Views: 8
  • PXL_20241003_022717613.jpg
    PXL_20241003_022717613.jpg
    165.2 KB · Views: 8
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.