Flexible pvc diameter

James is right, it has to be a pressure fitting.
An inside fitting can work, but surface prep is crucial. If the pipe is bubbly on the inside it will fail.
You can see for yourself if the joint is good when you pull that drain fitting off.
@JamesW , you seem determined that this method that I have used countless times over the last 25 years will not work. Do you have a better solution? Can you recommend anything to help, or just try to discredit my suggestion? Replumbing is not an option, that has already been determined. You are clearly a spa expert so must have dealt with this many times. What do you suggest?
Don't do the glue buildup thing. If you need to do that, the coupling is too loose.
 
I would get the deep socket fitting as that will have a much better chance of holding.

The deep socket fitting is almost 1" deeper than a regular schedule 40 fitting.

Let's see how well a deep socket fitting will work.
 
@JamesW , you seem determined that this method that I have used countless times over the last 25 years will not work. Do you have a better solution? Can you recommend anything to help, or just try to discredit my suggestion? Replumbing is not an option, that has already been determined.
If you were onsite, I would be confident that you would do it right.

Since neither of us are able to actually examine the pipe or fittings directly, I am being cautious. Maybe overcautious.

Let's see if the deep socket fits any better.
 
While I am confident with a standard pressure fitting or the deep socket fitting @JamesW recommends, a drain fitting such as you have is likely to have issues, especially as it is just off of the pump on the pressure side. There is alot of pressure in that pipe for a 1in deep coupling. Cutting it back may change your choice of fittings as it is tight to the pump. Had you planned a street 90 into the coupling? If so, cut it back a bit more than flush and use a standard 90 instead. The deep socket fitting should have enough depth to make up for the inch lost by cutting it again.
 

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So the plumbing is all set turns out the pump has a leak also. Discovered when refilling. Do you think it is advisable to split the pump from the motor and replace the pump only? Ive had both pumps replaced by the dealer over the years and both times they replaced the whole unit. Picture attached. Reason I'm asking is this pump& motor assy is only a couple years old.
 

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Could be, its hard to see. Looks like it may be running down from the shaft.

I should also back up to when this issue started as this looks like it could be turning into a can of worms. Short story: last fall I noticed a large patch of dead grass next to the slab the spa is on. Realized next time I opened the cover on the tub and found it empty, it was the flow of water that killed the grass. took the panels off and found the cracked pump ell leaking, so I left the tub drained over the winter. I also noticed as I was getting all the water out of the tub, several jets blew apart, I found several clear plastic pieces of the diffusers from the larger jets in the foot well area. so Im wondering now putting all this together do I have a more serious problem? And experience with these scenarios?

Thanks
 
Yes, it would.
Leak at the shaft is usually a shaft seal, but spiderweb cracked pipes is freeze damage. With damaged jet internals as well I suspect it may have frozen. Did you have any freezing temps before you found it empty?
 
No it was well before the freezing Temps. Thing is I've drained this spa a couple times a year and never had rhe pattern of dead grass, maybe beca8use it was "pumped" down? Anyway I have the pump apart it is a waterway executive series. I'm assuming the seal is made between the two piece seal and not by sealing to the impeller shaft?
 

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