I got my test kit and that 2 ounce refill from amazon. It was all fresh.
First timer advice/thoughts for AGP
- Thread starter raysaint
- Start date
Trying to download the pool math app, says it's only for Ipad or phone. I want the math calculator on my laptop. Need it tonite, have to add chlorine to our new fresh fill AGP.
And, I bowed to the store and bought granular power chlor for starters, but I have a jug of liquid from now on. Is there a way to convert granular concentration to liquid and vice versa. Another site said to add 31 oz of chlorine to raise it from 0 to 2 ppm. Store said to use half a bottle of the granular. Gonna put granular in tonite. Could I take the granules and dissolve them for easier/quicker distribution? (same as liquid chlorine, again, why did I bow to the store.)
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,012
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Use the webpage
PoolMath
Discover the calculator behind the perfect pool, PoolMath. Dealing with pools has allowed TFP to become the original authors of the best calculator on the net.
www.troublefreepool.com
Ignore my last post about chlorine equivalents. I added the power chlor last nite, this morning FC was 3.2, combined was 0.6. Not bad for my first time.
Store test results yesterday: total alkalinity was 93, they said that's low, want me to raise it; your site says it's OK.
PH was 7.4, bang on. They said after raising TA, ph will go up, so then lower the PH; I said that sounds like a yoyo of chemicals.
Should I leave those two alone for now? What else should I test right now?
Store test results yesterday: total alkalinity was 93, they said that's low, want me to raise it; your site says it's OK.
PH was 7.4, bang on. They said after raising TA, ph will go up, so then lower the PH; I said that sounds like a yoyo of chemicals.
Should I leave those two alone for now? What else should I test right now?
pH is good. TA is good, but it's a minor consideration anyway. Maintain pH in the 7.2-7.8 range and TA will take care of itself.
Right now you need to get 30 ppm of CYA (aka stabilizer) in the water. Then add liquid chlorine to achieve FC of 3 ppm. Test daily for FC and add more chlorine as required to maintain 3 ppm. Never let it drop below 2 ppm. You can swim safely with FC as high as 12, so if you need to target 4 or 5 daily to stay above 2 at all times, do so.
Test pH weekly and adjust with muriatic acid or borax to stay in range.
That's all!
Right now you need to get 30 ppm of CYA (aka stabilizer) in the water. Then add liquid chlorine to achieve FC of 3 ppm. Test daily for FC and add more chlorine as required to maintain 3 ppm. Never let it drop below 2 ppm. You can swim safely with FC as high as 12, so if you need to target 4 or 5 daily to stay above 2 at all times, do so.
Test pH weekly and adjust with muriatic acid or borax to stay in range.
That's all!
So the stabilizer will lower my FC? And once my CYA is OK, what causes it to rise or lower?
And testing daily for FC, most people go to the pool store once a week, for me I'll be using the Taylor kit, K-2006, which means I'll burn thru a lot of the FC reagants. Is that normal?
And the pool math table, TA says target of 80-120, but recommended levels page says 60-80. I entered 80 as target, so math table says to add some muriatic. Which is correct?
And testing daily for FC, most people go to the pool store once a week, for me I'll be using the Taylor kit, K-2006, which means I'll burn thru a lot of the FC reagants. Is that normal?
And the pool math table, TA says target of 80-120, but recommended levels page says 60-80. I entered 80 as target, so math table says to add some muriatic. Which is correct?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,012
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
What is your ta?
Any ta 50 or over doesn’t generally need adjustment- just keep ph in the 7’s, as u add acid to do so the ta will lower.
Ta is the last parameter to worry about.
There is no “perfect TA” you just need to know the value so u can calculate acid doses for ph control in PoolMath
Stabilizer/cya doesn’t lower fc. It is acidic so it can lower ph a little (use effects of adding in poolmath to see the effects of all chems on each parameter BEFORE adding to get an understanding)
Cya is “sunscreen” for chlorine but also binds some of the “active” chlorine so the fc level needs to increase as you increase your cya level to achieve adequate disinfecting amounts FC/CYA Levels
www.google.com
Cya level is lowered by water replacement & degrades slightly over time with high water temperatures
I have a spa & a pool so I buy large bottles of r-0871
Yes- You need to test fc daily until u get familiar with the daily fc consumption of your pool at which point you can go a couple days. Be aware that the average pool uses 2-4 ppm of fc daily, this must be replenished. However u choose to test & dose, you MUST ensure that you don’t allow fc to fall below minimum for your cya level before your next dose lest nasties will grow
. Skirting minimum is not recommended. Most dose to high target 
or a scootch above to ensure minimum isn’t broached & to have a cushion incase of higher bather load, high uv day, or other environmental factors.
It is safe to swim w/ fc levels anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya so long as you can see the bottom of the pool for swimmer safety.
If the power chlor is the bioguard stuff it is only about 70% trichlor
(trichlor increases cya, & is also acidic)
It also contains borates “Boron sodium oxide (B4Na2O7), pentahydrate”
(which can increase TA)
& “trade secret clarifiers” - not recommended.
Basically it’s very expensive reduced strength trichlor.
“Multi purpose” products like this make it hard to keep track of what they will do & have done to your water.
It’s much easier to test & adjust each parameter on its own.
If u want fc - add liquid chlorine or use a swg.
If u want cya - add cya.
If u want borates - add boric acid.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure - this holds especially true with a pool & daily/regular testing vs once a week & trying to fix everything that occurred over a whole week in one day.
Any ta 50 or over doesn’t generally need adjustment- just keep ph in the 7’s, as u add acid to do so the ta will lower.
Ta is the last parameter to worry about.
There is no “perfect TA” you just need to know the value so u can calculate acid doses for ph control in PoolMath
Stabilizer/cya doesn’t lower fc. It is acidic so it can lower ph a little (use effects of adding in poolmath to see the effects of all chems on each parameter BEFORE adding to get an understanding)
Cya is “sunscreen” for chlorine but also binds some of the “active” chlorine so the fc level needs to increase as you increase your cya level to achieve adequate disinfecting amounts FC/CYA Levels
CYA Chlorine Relationship - Further Reading
www.google.com
Cya level is lowered by water replacement & degrades slightly over time with high water temperatures
I have a spa & a pool so I buy large bottles of r-0871
Yes- You need to test fc daily until u get familiar with the daily fc consumption of your pool at which point you can go a couple days. Be aware that the average pool uses 2-4 ppm of fc daily, this must be replenished. However u choose to test & dose, you MUST ensure that you don’t allow fc to fall below minimum for your cya level before your next dose lest nasties will grow
. Skirting minimum is not recommended. Most dose to high target or a scootch above to ensure minimum isn’t broached & to have a cushion incase of higher bather load, high uv day, or other environmental factors.It is safe to swim w/ fc levels anywhere between minimum and slam level for your cya so long as you can see the bottom of the pool for swimmer safety.
If the power chlor is the bioguard stuff it is only about 70% trichlor
(trichlor increases cya, & is also acidic)
It also contains borates “Boron sodium oxide (B4Na2O7), pentahydrate”
(which can increase TA)
& “trade secret clarifiers” - not recommended.
Basically it’s very expensive reduced strength trichlor.
“Multi purpose” products like this make it hard to keep track of what they will do & have done to your water.
It’s much easier to test & adjust each parameter on its own.
If u want fc - add liquid chlorine or use a swg.
If u want cya - add cya.
If u want borates - add boric acid.
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure - this holds especially true with a pool & daily/regular testing vs once a week & trying to fix everything that occurred over a whole week in one day.
Last edited:
Forget TA - it's not that important.
CYA protects your FC from the sun. Without CYA, your FC would burn off in an hour or two. That's why it's called 'stabilizer' - it keeps your FC level stable.
Even with CYA, your FC gets used up killing algae and pathogens. So it needs to be replaced daily. Test daily at first to determine how much chlorine needs to be added each day to raise your FC back to where it needs to be.
After a couple of weeks, you'll find you're probably using about the same amount of chlorine each day. At that point, you can just add the same amount daily without testing. Test every 2-3 days just to make sure you're still on target.
Eventually you can just test FC weekly as long as everything remains stable. If the water ever starts to look less than sparkly, test and add chlorine if needed.
CYA protects your FC from the sun. Without CYA, your FC would burn off in an hour or two. That's why it's called 'stabilizer' - it keeps your FC level stable.
Even with CYA, your FC gets used up killing algae and pathogens. So it needs to be replaced daily. Test daily at first to determine how much chlorine needs to be added each day to raise your FC back to where it needs to be.
After a couple of weeks, you'll find you're probably using about the same amount of chlorine each day. At that point, you can just add the same amount daily without testing. Test every 2-3 days just to make sure you're still on target.
Eventually you can just test FC weekly as long as everything remains stable. If the water ever starts to look less than sparkly, test and add chlorine if needed.
From now on I'll just use my liquid chlorine (I assume pour it slowly) and pool math will tell me how much to get to target; kinda looks like about 3 to 6 based on CYA of 20-30. Is that where CYA should be?
Right now I have some Stabilizer 100 in a skimmer sock, dangling in my skimmer basket. How long before testing CYA again? CYA was only 5 (pool store analysis), it said minimum target is 30.
And it's funny, my TA of 93, they said was low.
And I'm hoping a couple people with equipment knowledge reply to my "wrong filter?" post a few post back.
Right now I have some Stabilizer 100 in a skimmer sock, dangling in my skimmer basket. How long before testing CYA again? CYA was only 5 (pool store analysis), it said minimum target is 30.
And it's funny, my TA of 93, they said was low.
And I'm hoping a couple people with equipment knowledge reply to my "wrong filter?" post a few post back.
CYA at 30 is perfect for you. Wait 48 hours after it has all dissolved before testing again. If it's still low add 10 ppm at a time until you achieve 30.
FC 3-6 is great for CYA at 30. Just never let it drop below 2 or you'll be inviting algae over for dinner. Remember, CYA and FC go hand in hand. Raise CYA and you need to raise FC accordingly. FC/CYA Levels
Yes, use Pool Math to calculate all amounts to dose.
Forget about TA. I haven't tested mine in 5 years. It's the least thing to be concerned with.
FC 3-6 is great for CYA at 30. Just never let it drop below 2 or you'll be inviting algae over for dinner. Remember, CYA and FC go hand in hand. Raise CYA and you need to raise FC accordingly. FC/CYA Levels
Yes, use Pool Math to calculate all amounts to dose.
Forget about TA. I haven't tested mine in 5 years. It's the least thing to be concerned with.
Different topic for a minute. I have the Confer 7200 ladder. Want to put a couple 24 x 24 patio slabs under the outside; does the top surface of the slabs need to be right at pool ground level, or is a bit higher than pool floor OK? Would that tip it forward a bit and make the in-pool side apply more force to the liner?
And the pads that go under the ladder base in the water, for liner protection, some like them, a couple people said it grew algae under it.
And the pads that go under the ladder base in the water, for liner protection, some like them, a couple people said it grew algae under it.
VinnyinNJ
Bronze Supporter
- Jul 20, 2022
- 1,050
- Pool Size
- 13500
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
I think as long as the slabs aren't too thick then you are probably OK. I used concrete 12 x 12 pavers for my last pool that were maybe 1 or 2 inches thick (I'm thinking closer to 1) and the steps had no perceived pitch. I do forget if I dug the ground out to meet the turf but either way 1 inch is not too much of a height difference.
I swear by the mat, we used a bath mat and in the 20 years we had one down we never had a problem with algae. The dealer is supplying a mat for inside the pool and we plan on using it.
I swear by the mat, we used a bath mat and in the 20 years we had one down we never had a problem with algae. The dealer is supplying a mat for inside the pool and we plan on using it.
Thanks for your ladder input. Hoping to get the ladder in today, and add the mat later, gotta order one.
Now back to chemicals. Yesterday I added about 800 gr. of Stabilizer 100, this morning my CYA was about 30 (up from 5 yesterday with the fresh fill.)
FC was 0.8 (down from 3.2 yesterday), so I added just now at 8:00 a.m., liquid chlorine in the amount the pool math told me, with a target of 4.0 for now.
Poured it slowly in front of return, will it take a full volume turnover to fully distribute? a few hours? (12,500 gallons, pump on low speed.)
Need to bring the CYA up a bit I believe, how often to test it? Taylor kit only has enough reagant for about 6 CYA tests.
Now back to chemicals. Yesterday I added about 800 gr. of Stabilizer 100, this morning my CYA was about 30 (up from 5 yesterday with the fresh fill.)
FC was 0.8 (down from 3.2 yesterday), so I added just now at 8:00 a.m., liquid chlorine in the amount the pool math told me, with a target of 4.0 for now.
Poured it slowly in front of return, will it take a full volume turnover to fully distribute? a few hours? (12,500 gallons, pump on low speed.)
Need to bring the CYA up a bit I believe, how often to test it? Taylor kit only has enough reagant for about 6 CYA tests.
The chlorine should be mixed in within 15 minutes as long as your pump is running.
CYA degrades slowly over time, so once you reach the desired level, you can test it monthly.
CYA degrades slowly over time, so once you reach the desired level, you can test it monthly.
Good to know, was hoping CYA stayed stable for a while, in order to assess average FC usage and come up with a regular chlorine dose and frequency.
I'll bring my CYA up some more, to over 40, then work towards a new FC target, and test it every day for a bit.
Do I need to lower total alkalinity? Mine was 93 (store analysis), your max is 90.
And Calcium: mine was 107, they said range should be 175-225. You say 50-550. For fun, I entered a target of 200 in pool math to see, and it said add over 4500 gr. of calcium chloride! (10 lbs.)
I'll bring my CYA up some more, to over 40, then work towards a new FC target, and test it every day for a bit.
Do I need to lower total alkalinity? Mine was 93 (store analysis), your max is 90.
And Calcium: mine was 107, they said range should be 175-225. You say 50-550. For fun, I entered a target of 200 in pool math to see, and it said add over 4500 gr. of calcium chloride! (10 lbs.)
Last edited:
FORGET. ABOUT. TA.
Calcium is irrelevant in a vinyl pool unless you have a heater.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,012
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Note*
Knowing your approximate ta is imperative to properly dosing your ph via PoolMath so it should be tested every now & then but adjusting it to hit a perfect # is not necessary. Highish ta is not hurting anything.
Pool stores sell & push daily & weekly use of acidic chlorine products (trichlor/dichlor) that will tank your ph & subsequently ta in short order thus their recommendations that your ta is low. Also they want to sell u expensive repackaged soda ash “premium TA up”.
Your ch is fine. Lowish ch is of no consequence in your vinyl pool with no heater. Mine is 50 - always has been, always will be so long as I live here.
Did I mention “They” want to sell u things? Pool store testing is a selling tool. Kinda like coupons to make u feel like u got something out of the deal but in reality u bought an expensive item you didn’t need.
*Fc is priority- dose to high targetfor your cya or a little above so there’s no playing kissy face with minimum at any time
FC/CYA Levels
*Ph in the 7’s
*Your Ta is
*Your ch is
Enjoy your pool
Knowing your approximate ta is imperative to properly dosing your ph via PoolMath so it should be tested every now & then but adjusting it to hit a perfect # is not necessary. Highish ta is not hurting anything.
Pool stores sell & push daily & weekly use of acidic chlorine products (trichlor/dichlor) that will tank your ph & subsequently ta in short order thus their recommendations that your ta is low. Also they want to sell u expensive repackaged soda ash “premium TA up”.
Your ch is fine. Lowish ch is of no consequence in your vinyl pool with no heater. Mine is 50 - always has been, always will be so long as I live here.
Did I mention “They” want to sell u things? Pool store testing is a selling tool. Kinda like coupons to make u feel like u got something out of the deal but in reality u bought an expensive item you didn’t need.
*Fc is priority- dose to high target
for your cya or a little above so there’s no playing kissy face with minimum at any time FC/CYA Levels
*Ph in the 7’s
*Your Ta is
*Your ch is
Enjoy your pool
So this morning my CYA was still 30 I guess (the comparator tube was to the top for the black dot to disappear.) I added more stabilizer last night, but it didn't seem to raise it at all. So far I've used about a half container (2.5 kg container) of stabilizer. (Stabilizer 100 granular)
My FC this morning was 2.0, so I'll add chlorine this morning, then more stabilizer tonite. Hoping it will reach target, so I can go after FC target.
I guess it's a yoyo at first.
My FC this morning was 2.0, so I'll add chlorine this morning, then more stabilizer tonite. Hoping it will reach target, so I can go after FC target.
I guess it's a yoyo at first.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,012
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Wait 24 hrs after adding stabilizer to test & adjust if dissolved in the sock. It can take up to a week to show up if it was added directly to the skimmer (not advised) & will also go away if u backwash.
So last night's stabilizer may have not taken full effect by this morning, hence my reading didn't change from yesterday morning. I just added about 1500 ml of chlorine, so I'll check both tomorrow morning and that should be a better reading of both. I won't add more stabilizer until then, if needed.