First time trying to open a pool

scm175

0
Jun 28, 2012
29
Bristol, PA
Hi all. Just want to say thank you to all of the knowledgeable people on this forum helping out the people like me. I have a 14 X 48 intex pool. Until this year I have just taken it down each winter and refilled it with fresh water in the spring. Last fall I drained the water down to below the suction port and covered the pool. (no closing chemicals) During the winter a tree branch crashed thru my pool cover so my pool was basically uncovered all winter. When I removed the ripped cover last week and started working on the pool the water was a very dark green(almost brown). I scooped out all the leaves and things that I could find scooping blindly. I filled the pool and got my new sand filter going. I started by dumping in 2 gal of 10% bleach and the water changed in a few hours from dark green to a bright green.( It looked like antifreeze). I have continued trying the slam process. My water is now somewhat clear with a pale green tint to it. I can see the bottom and have removed all the derbies from the pool. I am working on a very tight budget and can not afford a proper test kit. I am trying to get by with test strips and the water test that my local pool store has been doing for me. Here are my latest numbers:

FC: 10
CC: 5
PH: 7
TA: 45
TH: 67
CYA: 11
Salt: 900

I am needing to backwash my filter at least 3 times a day. I am vacuuming the pool and brushing walls at least once a day. Here are a few questions that I have:

1. The only way I can tell that I need to backwash is the reduced output felt at my return. The pressure gauge on my filter never goes above 10 even when the filter can't hardly move water. Is this normal or is my pressure gauge broke?

2. How long should the backwash last. Between the backwash and the rinse I can only do it 2 or 3 times before I need to add water to the pool.

3. Is it safe to use 15 or 20 as my target FC to keep it above 10 when I can not get to the pool every few hours?

Thanks in advance for all of your great advice.
 
1) no. That's not normal. I would say it's broken. I'm told the test kit folks still a high quality glycerin filled one that should survive longer than a standard one. Does it drop to 0 when your pump is off? It should.

2) Long enough to get your pressure down to normal. Unfortunately you can't tell due to the broken gauge right now. Once it's fixed that will be a little easier to do.

3) yes. Totally safe to go above the minimum shock level. In fact 10 is the minimum so you never actually want to be below it. Higher won't hurt.

Sounds like you're making good progress.

For closing make sure to close cold (and open cold), raise chlorine to shock level, and add the maximum dose of polyquat 60 algaecide. It will save time and money in Spring. Even if a tree falls in your pool it will just be skimming then.
 
The pressure does drop to 0 when the pump is off but then goes to 10 whenever the pump is running. Backwash, Filter, VAC, the pressure always reads 10. I will look into replacing it. Should I try to adjust my CYA or should I wait until after I finish my SLAM?
 
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