First time pool owner

joshuazzx

Active member
Oct 31, 2021
36
Austin, TX
Pool Size
16000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 1400
Hi Everyone,

My name is Joshua. I just moved in to my new home I live in Austin Texas. It has a 16000 gal saltwater pool.

I would like to start to learn how to properly maintain it. This place seems to be a great with a lot of people who is willing to help. I am glad I found here.

I got couple of questions and really appreciate if someone could help.

1. I have the pool water tested at Leslie's and the report showed the PH is 8.0 which is high. But I have some test strip bought from Amazon, and it showed the PH level is within the correct range. I tested more than once at different time of the day. So which one should I believe?

2. For the saltwater pool, it has the Jandy chlorinator running at 75%, can I still add some Clorox trichlor tablets using the slow release floater?

3. Since the previous owner did not add any cyanuric acid to stabilize the chorine, the cyanuric acid level is very low. Can I add some trichlor tablets with stabilizer in it?

Thanks in advance,
Joshua
 
With a SWCG...your CYA should be around 70-80. Pitch the test strips altogether. See Pool School and look into getting one of our recommended test kits there. The TF100 with a salt water test is your best bet. You can thank us later!
 
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Hey Joshua 👋
1. Short answer - neither.
Both pool store testing & strips are known to be wildly inaccurate & variable.
You need your own reliable test kit to properly care for your pool as mentioned above.
Test Kits Compared
2&3. Depends on your actual cya level-
Trichlor is also acidic & will lower ph & over time ta. So you must take it’s effects into consideration. PoolMath effects of adding can help with this (most tabs are 8oz)
It’s generally recommended to use liquid chlorine when you need to boost fc.
& add granular stabilizer separately via the sock method sock 🧦. (You want to do this in stages so u don’t over shoot your target)
This way you know exactly what your getting with each parameter & can get to Recommended Levels quickly vs waiting on tabs to dissolve.

Which jandy unit do you have?
It’s possible your unit may be undersized or you could have an organics issue eating your fc . You may want to wait to raise cya too high until you have a test kit & can rule out algae by doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
If your fc has went below min for your cya
FC/CYA Levels
or to zero because you have no cya this could be why your unit isn’t keeping up.

Filling out your signature really helps every one help u with issues quickly & more accurately.
When you get your kit in you can post the results here & you with get more detailed advice.
 
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Joshua- welcome.

I just wanted to share that I prefer the test kit TF-100Pro salt. www.tftestkits.net
It has everything you need and should last about 2 yrs as long as you don't have algae or some gross cooties ;) the thing that's most important is that it has a FAS-DPD test element for high levels of FC and CC. Really important if you are fighting algae.

Hook'em!
Maddie 🐞
 
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Hey Joshua 👋
1. Short answer - neither.
Both pool store testing & strips are known to be wildly inaccurate & variable.
You need your own reliable test kit to properly care for your pool as mentioned above.
Test Kits Compared
2&3. Depends on your actual cya level-
Trichlor is also acidic & will lower ph & over time ta. So you must take it’s effects into consideration. PoolMath effects of adding can help with this (most tabs are 8oz)
It’s generally recommended to use liquid chlorine when you need to boost fc.
& add granular stabilizer separately via the sock method sock 🧦. (You want to do this in stages so u don’t over shoot your target)
This way you know exactly what your getting with each parameter & can get to Recommended Levels quickly vs waiting on tabs to dissolve.

Which jandy unit do you have?
It’s possible your unit may be undersized or you could have an organics issue eating your fc . You may want to wait to raise cya too high until you have a test kit & can rule out algae by doing an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test.
If your fc has went below min for your cya
FC/CYA Levels
or to zero because you have no cya this could be why your unit isn’t keeping up.

Filling out your signature really helps every one help u with issues quickly & more accurately.
When you get your kit in you can post the results here & you with get more detailed advice.
Thank you for answer, I updated my signature with the details I know.

It seems the pool has no issue with FC since the chlorinator is running at 75%, but due to low CYA, I lost FC from the sun. The reason I am asking is I want to know if I can lower the SWCG percentage by adding some CYA. The only CYA I have at the moment is trichlor tablets.

I guess I will need to get some stabilizer separately, which should I get? the liquid or dry stabilizer?
 
If you get liquid (which is more expensive) you need to plan to use the entire jug & rinse it in the pool or you may not see the intended rise in cya. It doesn’t seem to mix in the bottle evenly no matter how much you shake it.
Most here prefer the granular added via the sock method (put a couple pounds in a sock, tie the end, hang from a pole in front of a return, squeeze sock periodically to release stabilizer.)
If u have 2 returns you can use 2 socks of cya. A couple pounds usually takes a few hours to dissolve. Don’t allow the sock to touch the pool wall.
Use PoolMath for calculating additions.
Running your swg @ 75% for 24 hrs a day should produce approximately 7ppm fc - if you are rolling through 7ppm/day that’s quite a loss. You didn’t mention your run time but most w/ a vsp run all the time @ a low rpm.
Average fc loss in most residential pools due to sun is 2-4 ppm/day. High bather loads can increase this obviously.
Definitely do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before increasing cya over 30/40 incase you need to do a SLAM Process.
Also pool store tests & strips don’t do well w/ the cya test. I wouldn’t do any major adjustments until u can test properly w/ a turbidity test- this is included in the Taylor k2006c & the tf100/tf pro salt.

If you over shoot cya the only way to lower it is to replace water.
 
Make sure you get a good test kit so you do your own, reliable, testing. I wouldn't add CYA unless I had a test kit to measure its concentration.

Until you get your test kit, you could supplement your SWCG with liquid chlorine if you think it is needed. I get mine at Home Depot or a pool store. Regular bleach works also, just make sure it is NOT the splashless kind or does NOT have scents.

How long is the pump running? Does the SWCG have a separate timer or is it on when the pump is on?
 
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There are a lot of members in the Austin area, maybe someone will see your post and offer to test your water to get you started. At least til you get your own kit. A separate post reaching out to Austin area members for a quick test might help.
 
Make sure you get a good test kit so you do your own, reliable, testing. I wouldn't add CYA unless I had a test kit to measure its concentration.

Until you get your test kit, you could supplement your SWCG with liquid chlorine if you think it is needed. I get mine at Home Depot or a pool store. Regular bleach works also, just make sure it is NOT the splashless kind or does NOT have scents.

How long is the pump running? Does the SWCG have a separate timer or is it on when the pump is on?

If you get liquid (which is more expensive) you need to plan to use the entire jug & rinse it in the pool or you may not see the intended rise in cya. It doesn’t seem to mix in the bottle evenly no matter how much you shake it.
Most here prefer the granular added via the sock method (put a couple pounds in a sock, tie the end, hang from a pole in front of a return, squeeze sock periodically to release stabilizer.)
If u have 2 returns you can use 2 socks of cya. A couple pounds usually takes a few hours to dissolve. Don’t allow the sock to touch the pool wall.
Use PoolMath for calculating additions.
Running your swg @ 75% for 24 hrs a day should produce approximately 7ppm fc - if you are rolling through 7ppm/day that’s quite a loss. You didn’t mention your run time but most w/ a vsp run all the time @ a low rpm.
Average fc loss in most residential pools due to sun is 2-4 ppm/day. High bather loads can increase this obviously.
Definitely do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test before increasing cya over 30/40 incase you need to do a SLAM Process.
Also pool store tests & strips don’t do well w/ the cya test. I wouldn’t do any major adjustments until u can test properly w/ a turbidity test- this is included in the Taylor k2006c & the tf100/tf pro salt.

If you over shoot cya the only way to lower it is to replace water.
I am getting a test kit as suggested. BTW, TF-100 Test Kit should be sufficient?

I run my pump 12 hours during the day. The SWG runs with the pump timer.
 
I am getting a test kit as suggested. BTW, TF-100 Test Kit should be sufficient?
That would be ideal. You won't be disappointed. Consider also getting the magnetic speed stir if you can to help make mixing a breeze. :stirpot:
 

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I am getting a test kit as suggested. BTW, TF-100 Test Kit should be sufficient?

I run my pump 12 hours during the day. The SWG runs with the pump timer.
U also want to add the salt test as you don’t want to solely rely on your swg’s readout.
With adequate stabilizer your current run time & percentage should be sufficient
With average losses
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