First Time Pool Owner

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espinola17

0
Bronze Supporter
Dec 24, 2016
144
Maricopa, AZ
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Moved into a house with a pool built in 2006. House was built in 2002. Quick overview: when I took ownership the pool had a lot of debris at the bottom, pool floor covered in algae and dirt. Purchased manual vacuum and other pool cleaning supplies and cleaned it up a bunch. When the pump turned on it was blowing large bubbles from two return jets for 30-60 seconds then operated normally. Figured this was a water level issue so filled up to half way mark of skimmer and everything seems to be okay now.

With the help of a family member, cartridges were cleaned. HTH Chlorine Tablets have been used and continued to be used under my ownership. Have not taken readings but do have a test kit and will arrange for that today.

Pool specs: Approx.: 11000 gallons +/-. Deep End: 5 ft. Length: Approx. 27 ft. Width: Approx. 11 ft. 2 main drains, 1 skimmer, 1 vacuum port. 3 return jets.

Pool pic and pump pic:
FullSizeRender.jpgIMG_7228.jpg
 
Hi! Welcome to TFP! Your wallet is going to love it here! LOL

That is a pretty pool! You did a good job cleaning it up!

What test kit do you have? How have you been testing until now?

Can you please put your pool info in your signature? That way it will show up each time you post. Go to settings (upper right), then to edit signature (middle left). THANKS!

Kim:kim:
 
Welcome to TFP! :wave: The HTH 6-Way will tell you if you have "some" chlorine (up to 5 ppm I believe), TA, and a couple other items. But for accuracy throughout the season, you would be best served to order a TF-100 (link below in my sig). Also consider the Magnetic Speed Stir if you can swing it. It helps tremendously with FC, TA, and CH testing. The TF-100 is a fantastic value and widely used by many, many members of TFP. Nice to have you with us. Nice looking pool. :)
 
Welcome to TFP! Very nice looking pool. You're in the right place. Read, ask, read, ask and do not get discouraged. It will take a little time but you will be maintaining your pool and keeping it crystal clear.
 
Welcome :wave:

Wow, no heater? It may sound strange (heater in AZ??) but that pool is going to stay cold for a long time with no heat source. I find that when the water temps drop below 80F, it's just not comfortable to swim. So, as you think about getting the pool in shape for the summer, consider getting a bubble cover to help keep the heat in and heat it up a little faster when the weather warms up. You probably won't use the cover from June-Sep, but you'll want to cover it in the elbow months to help make it swimmable sooner. It also helps with reducing evaporation and can help save you on water costs. Your pool looks compact enough that one can easily get a cover on and off it. There are plenty of ideas on this forum for DIY Solar Cover Rollers to help with the on/off use of a solar cover.

The equipment pad looks simple enough so you're probably in good shape there. I can't tell from the picture but is that a single speed pump or a 2-speed. If you're running a single speed pump, you might consider am upgrade to a 2-speed as running a pool on low speed will cut your energy costs down quite a bit.

Are you sure that's a vacuum port? Your plumbing suggests that your pool should have a pressure-side cleaner (the 3/4" PVC line with shut-off after the filter)?
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Welcome :wave:

Wow, no heater? It may sound strange (heater in AZ??) but that pool is going to stay cold for a long time with no heat source. I find that when the water temps drop below 80F, it's just not comfortable to swim. So, as you think about getting the pool in shape for the summer, consider getting a bubble cover to help keep the heat in and heat it up a little faster when the weather warms up. You probably won't use the cover from June-Sep, but you'll want to cover it in the elbow months to help make it swimmable sooner. It also helps with reducing evaporation and can help save you on water costs. Your pool looks compact enough that one can easily get a cover on and off it. There are plenty of ideas on this forum for DIY Solar Cover Rollers to help with the on/off use of a solar cover.

The equipment pad looks simple enough so you're probably in good shape there. I can't tell from the picture but is that a single speed pump or a 2-speed. If you're running a single speed pump, you might consider am upgrade to a 2-speed as running a pool on low speed will cut your energy costs down quite a bit.

Are you sure that's a vacuum port? Your plumbing suggests that your pool should have a pressure-side cleaner (the 3/4" PVC line with shut-off after the filter)?
Click to expand...

I know came as a shocker to me as well with having no heater. Coming from the filter is an aerator. Which will probably be off for a long while since the water temperature is so low.


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espinola17 said:
I know came as a shocker to me as well with having no heater. Coming from the filter is an aerator. Which will probably be off for a long while since the water temperature is slow.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Aerator? That's interesting...what/where is the aerator?

So then the suction side of the pump is split between a vacuum port on one side and a skimmer on the other? Looks like you have main drains too. If so, that means the PB tied the MDs and skimmer in series (I have that too) which is not the greatest. Make sure that there is a proper float diverter at the bottom of the skimmer (pictures of what they look like HERE)
 

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JoyfulNoise said:
Aerator? That's interesting...what/where is the aerator?

So then the suction side of the pump is split between a vacuum port on one side and a skimmer on the other? Looks like you have main drains too. If so, that means the PB tied the MDs and skimmer in series (I have that too) which is not the greatest. Make sure that there is a proper float diverter at the bottom of the skimmer (pictures of what they look like HERE)
Click to expand...

If you're looking at the pool from the pics I attached it's on the right hand side center. That is for sure what it sounds like. I'll definitely work on getting a float diverter.


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Sorry for the delay everyone. Did some tests today. Here's what I got.

pH: 7.65
Cl / Br: couldn't get a reading was a bit too orange
Alkalinity: 50ppm
CYA: 100 ppm

The pool has yet to be shocked


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triptyx said:
When you say your CYA is 100, did you try a dilution test to make sure it's not above that?

Dilute your pool water 50/50 with tap water, and then use that sample for the CYA test. Multiply the results by 2.
Click to expand...

I did not. But will go ahead and do that. It's a bit cloudy of a day here in AZ so I'll try doing that this weekend. My tap water has a water softener on it, would that affect anything?


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I'm in Tucson. I did a 100% drain last April very successfully. It's certainly possible when it's cooler out and if you use a hose to keep the exposed plaster damp. Regardless of your CYA, over time your calcium hardness rises and rises to an untenable level, so at least a partial drain every few years is fairly necessary to keep your CSI (calcium scaling index) in check anyhow.
 
triptyx said:
I'm in Tucson. I did a 100% drain last April very successfully. It's certainly possible when it's cooler out and if you use a hose to keep the exposed plaster damp. Regardless of your CYA, over time your calcium hardness rises and rises to an untenable level, so at least a partial drain every few years is fairly necessary to keep your CSI (calcium scaling index) in check anyhow.
Click to expand...

Im in Pinal County and the chlorine has to be less than 1 ppm to drain and has to be directed down a drain pass. But we will see I presume. I'll test the CYA on Sunday.


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When the water is cold, as it is right now, you should be able to allow it to dechlorinate pretty safely. It'll take a while, but things shouldn't grow very fast since the water is so cold (my pool is running around 52-54 degrees right now).

So with that in mind, Pinal County says the following (http://www.pinalcountyaz.gov/Commun...on Bulletins/010 Pool Barriers-Drainage.pdf):

The draining of swimming pools or spas usually involves a large volume of water with low chlorine levels. Procedures for emptying a poolor spa are as follow:
• A pool or spa may be emptied if it is free of chlorine and other chemicals.
• The pH level of the water must be tested prior to discharge and must fall within a range of 7 to 8.
• Discharge water must not be cloudy or discolored and must be free of algae and contaminants.
• Water may be discharged off of the owner’s property – provided it is directed to a drainage channel, wash, or along the curb line gutterof a paved street.
• The discharge must be monitored to ensure that is does not cause any erosion of the drainage channels or washes.
• Discharge water may be used to irrigate vegetation on the owner’s property.

The following restrictions apply to swimming pool and spa discharge activities:
• If a pool or spa has been acid washed, the water may not be discharged off the pool/ spa owner’s property.
• A pool or spa shall not be emptied until the chlorine is ≤ 1 part per million (1 milligram/liter).
• Discharges may not be drained into unpaved/strip-paved alleys or unpaved/strip-paved streets.
• Discharges may not run onto a neighbor’s property or across a sidewalk.
• Discharged water may not cause erosion or transport sediments.
• Pools/spas may not be permanently connected to a storm drain, drainage channel, or wash.
Click to expand...

Kinda funny, I wonder what you're supposed to do if you have a massively green algae breakout. That said, it looks like you don't have to put it into your household drain as long as your street is paved. You shouldn't have any problem getting a submersible pump and hose and draining into the street to take care of any CYA or CH problem you're having.
 

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