First time opening

[raysaint]

To reiterate- its not about the shade of the color- its about adding drops until there is no further change. If you didn’t do that you ended the test too early.

Gotcha. Once it was red, I didn't add another drop because the kit says red, plus I didn't think it could get any redder. Thanks.

 

[raysaint]

So things have been OK for the most part. I noticed in pool math, for PH adjustment, it says it depends on TA and borate. I know nothing about borate.
Does it affect the suggested muriatic addition?
The muriatic I've been adding brings PH down, but it goes back up somewhat. My TA is about 80 right now, PH is 7.8 - 8.0.
Seems like borate isn't easy to test with a Taylor kit, should I bother?

 

[PoolStored]

So things have been OK for the most part. I noticed in pool math, for PH adjustment, it says it depends on TA and borate. I know nothing about borate.
Does it affect the suggested muriatic addition?
The muriatic I've been adding brings PH down, but it goes back up somewhat. My TA is about 80 right now, PH is 7.8 - 8.0.
Seems like borate isn't easy to test with a Taylor kit, should I bother?

If you have not added borates, you don't have any...I would ignore it. Keep managing pH. Don't force it down at 7.8, with TA about 80 may just sit at 7.8/7.9. Only reduce pH when it hits 8. You are doing fine.

 

[Mdragger88]

As poolstored said if you haven’t added borates you don’t have any.
The addition of borates does increase the amount of acid needed to reduce ph (if all other things are equal)
The higher the ta the more acid is necessary as well.
The prompt you’re describing sounds like you’re using effects of adding for calculating acid additions. Use the overview card for adjusting ph so ta is accounted for in the calculation.

 

[raysaint]

I cleaned my cartridge filter couple days ago, screwed the top section on tight to the base. I notice I have a very small trickle of water coming down the outside of the filter housing, from where the 2 sections attach.
Wondering if this could be the rubber ring inside the top section, where it meets the base. I've never lubed it, I was afraid of stretching it or something if I pried/pulled it out. The ring sits way down in a groove.
Or maybe I just re-screw the top on.
If it's the ring, will lube fix it, or has it dried out and needs replacement?

 

[Mdragger88]

Lubricate it. Your stuff is quite new so it shouldn’t be a gonner.

 

[raysaint]

Lubricate it. Your stuff is quite new so it shouldn’t be a gonner.

Do I need to use the special pool lube (in a tube), or what kind of lube is acceptable?
I don't want to ruin the ring or have lube leach into the water.
I used to use silicone spray lube on the rubber inside my car doors to keep it supple. Not sure about pool rubber.

 

[PoolStored]

Silicone LUBRICANT like Magic Lube II. Do not use spray lubricant. Do not use PTFE/Teflon lube. Do not use silicone SEALANT.

 

[raysaint]

Gotcha. But I noticed this afternoon the trickle is stopped, exterior is dry. So I'm gonna watch it and lube it next time I clean it.

 

[raysaint]

A week ago I added granular cyanuric (the amount pool math told me) to bring my CYA up to 50. Tested today and CYA is at least 60. Is that too high? And what happens if it gets above acceptable maximum?

 

[Texas Splash]

Is that too high?

You'll be fine. Just be sure to keep the FC slightly higher for that new CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Since the CYA test is a bit tricky and has a wide variance of 10-15 ppm, you may be close to your goal.

 

[raysaint]

You'll be fine. Just be sure to keep the FC slightly higher for that new CYA as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. Since the CYA test is a bit tricky and has a wide variance of 10-15 ppm, you may be close to your goal.

So my goal of 50 may be closer than the test shows (which was a good 60.) I'll try to keep my FC around 8.
Thanks.

 

[Mdragger88]

So long as you follow
FC/CYA Levels you’ll be fine.
Btw- With getting ready to close soon you could have just left cya alone. Most people let their cya drift down as closing approaches since uv really drops off

 

[raysaint]

So long as you follow
FC/CYA Levels you’ll be fine.
Btw- With getting ready to close soon you could have just left cya alone. Most people let their cya drift down as closing approaches since uv really drops off

Wish I'd have known that. Does high CYA affect winterization in any way?

 

[Newdude]

Does high CYA affect winterization in any way?

Just a higher target and for closing at SLAM

Don't forget to OCLT to ensure you walk away with no algae festering.

 

[raysaint]

Just a higher target and for closing at SLAM

Don't forget to OCLT to ensure you walk away with no algae festering.

View attachment 532595

Sorry, being new, not sure what OCLT is.
Besides slamming at closing time, I add a whole bottle of algaecide.

 

[PoolStored]

Link--> Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[raysaint]

Link--> Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

I'm thinking I should do this test the day before slamming and closing; and before chemicals (assuming my FC is at target levels up until then). Otherwise, all the slam chlorine is not going to allow small discrepancies to be noticed when testing.

 

[PoolStored]

Otherwise, all the slam chlorine is not going to allow small discrepancies to be noticed when testing.

FC level does not matter for the OCLT. OCLT will fail or pass, even with higher levels of FC. Doing the test before slamming and closing is still a fine idea...you may want to do a few days in advance to give you time to SLAM and clear algae if needed. If you pass, just keep your FC at the top of the recommended range for your CYA.

 

[Newdude]

Sorry, being new

We have ALL the patience in the world for folks genuinely trying to lean. Make us pause/rewind ANYTIME.

I'm thinking I should do this test the day before slamming and closing;

Even a few days before close is fine, providing you are sure your FC was well above minimum between A and B.

Otherwise, all the slam chlorine is not going to allow small discrepancies to be noticed when testing.

Loss is loss, whether you lose 2 ppm at 12 FC or 5 FC. You're just taking the UV from the sun out of the equation. If you lose FC overnight, it's organic. (Algae).

Besides slamming at closing time, I add a whole bottle of algaecide.

Then the rec is to close at half SLAM when using algecide. They consume each other leaving you with less of each so you don't want to eat up too much of the algecide. Ensure it's polyquat60 so it's copper free.