First Test results

[Teald024]

Thanks. So it sounds like I leave it where it is unless my chlorine gets low? It also says it takes 24 hours to register after adding salt. I wonder if that's 24 hours of it running. Since I don't run my system 24 hours a day.

It will take some trial and error to dial it in. I would like to point out that right now it isn't producing any chlorine so you will need to test and add bleach to keep the FC up. Once the unit starts, you will still want to test the FC daily and see if the setting is enough to maintain proper FC levels or if you need to adjust the setting. This will be an ongoing process because as the temps go up and chlorine demand increases, you will have to make sure the FC levels stay up to par. Please don't get lax with the testing, it is lower maintenance, but is not a " set it and forget it" system. As you learn your pool and its needs, you can cut back on some testing. But for now, stick with daily testing.

I don't think you said which model you installed, but you may want to bump it up to 40% to start with and then turn it up or down from there

The internal salt check should be daily, not once every 24hrs of running. If it doesn't start by tomorrow morning, I would turn the power off and back on to reset it. From the manual, pg16 under "Sanitizer Output Settings and Adjustments", first bullet talks about initial startup salt check.
"Switch on the pool pump switch or pool pump timer. The salt display will blink both LEDs (bottom totop) for two (2) minutes, indicating that it has not checked the salt level yet. After two (2) minutes, the salt will be checked and one (1) of the salt level LEDs will be displayed."

 

[EmilyOTR]

It will take some trial and error to dial it in. I would like to point out that right now it isn't producing any chlorine so you will need to test and add bleach to keep the FC up. Once the unit starts, you will still want to test the FC daily and see if the setting is enough to maintain proper FC levels or if you need to adjust the setting. This will be an ongoing process because as the temps go up and chlorine demand increases, you will have to make sure the FC levels stay up to par. Please don't get lax with the testing, it is lower maintenance, but is not a " set it and forget it" system. As you learn your pool and its needs, you can cut back on some testing. But for now, stick with daily testing.

I don't think you said which model you installed, but you may want to bump it up to 40% to start with and then turn it up or down from there

The internal salt check should be daily, not once every 24hrs of running. If it doesn't start by tomorrow morning, I would turn the power off and back on to reset it. From the manual, pg16 under "Sanitizer Output Settings and Adjustments", first bullet talks about initial startup salt check.
"Switch on the pool pump switch or pool pump timer. The salt display will blink both LEDs (bottom totop) for two (2) minutes, indicating that it has not checked the salt level yet. After two (2) minutes, the salt will be checked and one (1) of the salt level LEDs will be displayed."

It turns on and off with everything else. I looked today and didn't see a way to turn it off manually.

 

[EmilyOTR]

And why do you say it's not producing any chlorine?

 

[Teald024]

And why do you say it's not producing any chlorine?

The red light for low salt has a note on the right side, "add salt, low salt, (system off)". A similar note is there if the flow is to low. A red dot and "no flow, system off" I interpret that to mean the unit turns off when the red dot shows.

Test and keep an eye on the FC level. That should tell you if the unit is making chlorine or not.

 

[EmilyOTR]

Today it says good salt. Whew!

 

[Teald024]

Today it says good salt. Whew!

Great news! I was getting a little worried for you for a bit. Thanks for reporting back.

 

[EmilyOTR]

You've been so helpful! Thank you!

 

[EmilyOTR]

another question - I'm off to read the manual again but now my flow light is red. I need to produce chlorine, we are having a party tomorrow!

 

[Teald024]

another question - I'm off to read the manual again but now my flow light is red. I need to produce chlorine, we are having a party tomorrow!

First, don't cancel the party! If all else fails, bleach will be able to get/keep your FC where it needs to be.

Second, how's the flow coming out of your returns? Have you checked the pump basket for debris? What is your filter pressure? Toy stuck in the skimmer, that kind of stuff?

 

[EmilyOTR]

First, don't cancel the party! If all else fails, bleach will be able to get/keep your FC where it needs to be.

Second, how's the flow coming out of your returns? Have you checked the pump basket for debris? What is your filter pressure? Toy stuck in the skimmer, that kind of stuff?

Haha! I would never cancel! The manual had a few reasons and dirty filter or clogged pump basket were a couple. Pump basket was clean so we backwashed (again!) and after the backwash the light was green again. I'm confused at how quickly we needed to backwash again but I'm happy it worked.

 

[EmilyOTR]

So, my Intellichlor said I had low salt yesterday morning before the party. I didn't have time to do anything so I just tested again today. I'm at 2800 ppm salt. so I added a bag. My question is, why? Why have I lost so much salt? I have heard and read that you add salt at the beginning of the season and that might be it, or maybe 1-2 bags more throughout.

 

[Mjman15]

So, my Intellichlor said I had low salt yesterday morning before the party. I didn't have time to do anything so I just tested again today. I'm at 2800 ppm salt. so I added a bag. My question is, why? Why have I lost so much salt? I have heard and read that you add salt at the beginning of the season and that might be it, or maybe 1-2 bags more throughout.

Evaporation, splash out, backwashing can lower your salt levels.

 

[EmilyOTR]

Evaporation, splash out, backwashing can lower your salt levels.

After 2 weeks of being open? Should I expect to add a bag every 2-3 weeks? That seems far more excessive than I was told.

 

[jagger2005]

Actually it is splash out, backwashing, and over flow that will cause you too lose salt. Have you had a lot of rain or backwashed a lot?

 

[EmilyOTR]

We have backwashed about 3-4 times due to a clogged pump. We have had some rain.

 

[jagger2005]

I am having a hard time finding the post with your last salt test value. For example, if it was 3500 and you are now 2800 - that is a 20% loss of water volume in 2 - 3 weeks. That would be some really long backwash or some crazy amount of rain. Just a reference, I normally build my salt up to 3400 at season start in April, and by the start of next season it has been 2200 to 2500 - and that was from a lot of rain.
Unless an expert has some thoughts, I would chalk it up to it is what it is and get it back up 3200 to 3500 or whatever will make the generator happy

 

[EmilyOTR]

On 5/22 I was at 3800!!

 

[Mjman15]

The only other explanation I can think of would be possibly testing error . I've personally made this mistake a few times myself which I why I bring it up .

 

[EmilyOTR]

Well, I'm at 3000 ppm today and the SWG is making chlorine again. Another question. When they installed my SWG, they said I'd have to add acid sometimes. when, and how do I know I need it?

 

[Mjman15]

Well, I'm at 3000 ppm today and the SWG is making chlorine again. Another question. When they installed my SWG, they said I'd have to add acid sometimes. when, and how do I know I need it?

I'm going to assume they mean add acid to lower your ph. You can test your ph with your test kit. You want to be in the 7.2 to 7.8 range.

Since swg does not impact ph (unlike using chlorine tabs which are acidic and lower ph) your ph will drift up over time. Acid will bring the ph back down if too high.