First test results TF-100

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H

Hardin083

Active member
May 4, 2019
43
Florida
Well we finally got our new pool build completed and the pool up and running. The pool builder has been maintaining the water for the first week and getting it all set up. They did provide me with a test kit which was not going to cut it for me so I purchased the TF100, thanks to everyone’s recommendation. I did ask them to provide me some chem readings and was told not to worry too much and they were pretty much irrelevant at this point. I disagreed and started taking my own samples as I wanted to make sure my new pools chem balance was heading the right direction. BTW the speed stir is awesome and I’m glad I purchased it with my new test kit. I did take some readings with the pool master kit and had a PH around 8.2 and free Cl was around 1-2 ppm for the first few days

They currently have the VS pool pump running at 3000 rpm for 10 hours a day and the IC-40 set to run for 9.5 hours at 100% output. It has been running this way for a week. The spa has been spilling over and a bubbler on my sun shelf running constantly.

Here’s the results from my first test with the TF100 kit. Since the test I backed my SWG to 80% output and have added the recommended dose of Muriatic acid to help lower the PH. I have pool school tomorrow so I will be working with the builder to get these numbers worked on and tuning my equipment. I’m also having some trouble trying to read the PH colors on the scale. I’ll try using a white sheet of paper tomorrow behind the instrument when I do my test tomorrow to see if that helps.

Also for the experts what should I focus on first? I’ve been reading the pool school and continue going over them. For now I was focusing on getting the PH down with acid and the free Cl lowered by backing down the SWG and depending on the sun. I was thinking once I get these heading the right direction I would work on the CYA and the CH.
 

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Put in your water temp so PoolMath can calculate your CSI.

You should only need to run your SWG around 60% for 12 hours a day. 80% is too high to get your FC down. Lower the SWG to 20% until you FC hits 6.

When your FC hits 6 then add stabilizer to raise your CYA to 70 and raise your SWG to 60%.

Keep adding acid to lower the pH. You are fighting the new plaster and the pH rise from your spillover running.

Why is the spillover and bubbler running constantly?

Do you have an automation system? I don't see anything listed in your signature.

Your CH is fine for a while. What is the pH, TA, and CH of your fill water? Do you have an autofill?
 
Congrats on the TF-100! :goodjjob: You've already noted the elevated FC. I"m guessing that's from the tremendous output from your SWG and high rpm of your VSP in the past. So of course let it fall and adjust pump run times/SWG output from there. You'll get it.

As for the the pH, definitely work on that now. Muriatic acid is the tool to lower the pH. Get it back to about 7.6-7.8. Yes, the shades can be tricky, but you'll see it eventually. Anything over 8.2 with warm water and and decent CH/TA level can lead to scale around the pool and SWG cell. For this first month or so, keep the "CSI" in the slightly positive area (0.1-0.3) as the new plaster cures. After that, the other way around - slightly negative. Oh, and reduce the spillover time. Aeration increases pH. Minimize spa run time to the spa/spillover to about 30 min per day to circulate chlorine unless you are actually using it.

You can increase the CYA to 70 to help the SWG work even more efficiently. Of course don't expect your builder to agree or understand most of what we advocate here. Many of them simply don't make that FC/CYA connection, especially for salt pools. But since this is a new pool, you may be obligated to follow certain levels for your warranty - at least for now. Talk this over with your installer, then you can make the decisions from there. We'll be around to help you along the way.
 
ajw22 said:
Put in your water temp so PoolMath can calculate your CSI.

You should only need to run your SWG around 60% for 12 hours a day. 80% is too high to get your FC down. Lower the SWG to 20% until you FC hits 6.

When your FC hits 6 then add stabilizer to raise your CYA to 70 and raise your SWG to 60%.

Keep adding acid to lower the pH. You are fighting the new plaster and the pH rise from your spillover running.

Why is the spillover and bubbler running constantly?

Do you have an automation system? I don't see anything listed in your signature.

Your CH is fine for a while. What is the pH, TA, and CH of your fill water? Do you have an autofill?
Click to expand...

I’ll get my signature updated soon and no I chose not to have any automation added to my pool. Sounded awesome but I work at a power plant and really enjoy being able to adjust valves and dial things in manually.

I added my temp and got a CSI of 0.47 for now which I assume is acceptable for now.

I will be backing down the SWG again tomorrow morning to help get the Cl reading to start dropping and adjust from there.

The bubbler and spillover have been running constantly per the setup guy who asked me to leave them on for now. But when he came Monday and dosed the pool I told him I was shutting the bubbler off to help the PH and he was fine with it. I’m caught in the middle of the road as I have to somewhat go by their recommendations. That will change after pool school though.

I do not have an auto fill system. I will also be taking my house water to my water lab at work tomorrow to get a full analysis on it. Yes I know I should have done that before hand. But I know in general I have decent fill water as even my lab techs at work know the water plant that I get my water from and talk highly of it.
 
Texas Splash said:
Congrats on the TF-100! :goodjjob: You've already noted the elevated FC. I"m guessing that's from the tremendous output from your SWG and high rpm of your VSP in the past. So of course let it fall and adjust pump run times/SWG output from there. You'll get it.

As for the the pH, definitely work on that now. Muriatic acid is the tool to lower the pH. Get it back to about 7.6-7.8. Yes, the shades can be tricky, but you'll see it eventually. Anything over 8.2 with warm water and and decent CH/TA level can lead to scale around the pool and SWG cell. For this first month or so, keep the "CSI" in the slightly positive area (0.1-0.3) as the new plaster cures. After that, the other way around - slightly negative. Oh, and reduce the spillover time. Aeration increases pH. Minimize spa run time to the spa/spillover to about 30 min per day to circulate chlorine unless you are actually using it.

You can increase the CYA to 70 to help the SWG work even more efficiently. Of course don't expect your builder to agree or understand most of what we advocate here. Many of them simply don't make that FC/CYA connection, especially for salt pools. But since this is a new pool, you may be obligated to follow certain levels for your warranty - at least for now. Talk this over with your installer, then you can make the decisions from there. We'll be around to help you along the way.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the great info. I will back my spa overflow down to just 30 minutes tomorrow after I take my pool readings and add some more Muriatic acid to get my PH down.

ans yeah I’ll be asking what their requirements are so I can keep everything good with them and my warranty.

My CSI is running at 0.47 now that I entered my water temp into the calculator. I also need to hit the store tomorrow to get some stabilizer to work on getting my CYA back up as well.
 
Probably nobody has notice but with your high FC, PH is reading a false High. I would not add acid until your FC drops below 10. Also you dont need to run your pump at full power, lower to around 1200 rpms and still have the green flow lite on.
 
Flying Tivo said:
Probably nobody has notice but with your high FC, PH is reading a false High. I would not add acid until your FC drops below 10.
Click to expand...

Funny you mention that because I added the recommended acid earlier today and when I tested again tonight it appears to not have lowered much at all based on the color chart. I’ll be keeping a close eye on it and will be backing down the SWG significantly tomorrow morning. I’m curious to see if I can get the Cl to start dropping and watch to see what the PH does at that time. The big question is, is how long will it take the Cl to start dropping if I turn all water features off and take the SWG to 20% output.
 

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Hardin083 said:
The big question is, is how long will it take the Cl to start dropping if I turn all water features off and take the SWG to 20% output.
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You can turn off the cell, test daily until it fall around 7, then test for PH and adjust. Then turn on your cell and adjust accordingly. You can play in poolmath with "effects of adding" select SWG input your brand and size of Swg so you get aroun d 3-4 ppm worth of FC.
 
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It appears that your pool is in a screened enclosure. If so, that greatly reduces the amount of sun exposure and chlorine use. The typical advice on this site is to have a rather high CYA for a SWG pool. I've found that true for open pools but I've also found that my enclosed Florida pool has a rather low chlorine demand even with more moderate CYA levels. I target CYA 40-60 in the summer and have had no problems with it even lower during the winter months. Our pools are fairly similar and I'd guess you'll be able to run your SWG at about 50% or less for 8 hours at CYA 50 in the summer and much less in the winter. Depending on where you are in Florida your water temperature may drop low enough that the SWG stops generating and if so you may need to supplement with liquid chlorine for a month or so but the amount required should be very little. Orlando seems to about the latitude where SWGs can be run year-round, north of there your water will likely get too cold unless you heat or cover your pool. If it were my pool I'd leave your CYA at 40 or so until spring and bump it a little then.
 
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Fuldo said:
It appears that your pool is in a screened enclosure. If so, that greatly reduces the amount of sun exposure and chlorine use. The typical advice on this site is to have a rather high CYA for a SWG pool. I've found that true for open pools but I've also found that my enclosed Florida pool has a rather low chlorine demand even with more moderate CYA levels. I target CYA 40-60 in the summer and have had no problems with it even lower during the winter months. Our pools are fairly similar and I'd guess you'll be able to run your SWG at about 50% or less for 8 hours at CYA 50 in the summer and much less in the winter. Depending on where you are in Florida your water temperature may drop low enough that the SWG stops generating and if so you may need to supplement with liquid chlorine for a month or so but the amount required should be very little. Orlando seems to about the latitude where SWGs can be run year-round, north of there your water will likely get too cold unless you heat or cover your pool. If it were my pool I'd leave your CYA at 40 or so until spring and bump it a little then.
Click to expand...

Great information and yeah we aren’t too far from each other. I’m beachside In the Melbourne area so I’m just a little south of that Orlando line. I’m planning to keep the CYA around the 40 range for right now until I dial the rest of the water chem in. I may adjust from there if needed. I also have a heater so I do plan to heat the pool during some of the colder months a few degrees. Will see how they plays outs soon as the weather should slowly start changing and should be cold by February lol
 
So I had ran the SWG at 80% yesterday for the 10 hour run time, and this morning I backed it down to 40% for today’s run. Will see what the readings are tomorrow morning when we take them during pool school with the builder.
I didn’t have too much time today but did manage to get a few quick readings before leaving for work. They are as follows.
PH still reads hi around 8.3 I’m guessing
CL2 was 11.5 so it’s came down a little bit from yesterdays reading
CYA was 40 still
Temp was 82
CSI says 0.37 which is down from yesterday’s 0.46

Since my PH still reads high and it’s hard to match to a color I brought a water sample to the lab at work for a quick test just to see. The PH on a calibrated PH probe read 8.89 and during a CL2 test it came back as 8.2ppm on the free chlorine. I’m assuming the CL2 number was lower as the water sample gassed off slightly as the sample was around 3 hours old by the time I got it sampled. Which would affect the CL2 reading. From my understanding and talking with my lead lab tech the CL2 should be taken within 15 minutes to make it a validated accurate sample.
 
JJ_Tex is on the money. You need acid in your pool. Target 7.5 and use the starting point of 8.3.

I know your FC is above 10 ppm but the phenol red test won't be too far off with 11.5 FC. I wouldn't put much faith in that digital meter......that result sounds bogus.
 
Here’s a pic of the sample I took today. I do believe the meter that was used as we use it and calibrate it regularly, as we measure boiler water chemistry with it all the time. And our boiler water has to be as pure and as clean as possible to make sure we send high quality steam to our steam turbines. I’m going to add some more acid ASAP.
 

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