First test after drain, refill, and switch to SWG

[FSDpool]

I just switched to SWG from 3" pool tabs, last time I drained the pool was >5 years, could be as long as 10 years ago, so I wanted to start fresh.

I got the TF-PRO Salt test but didn't see how to test salt with it - I just ran through the tests on the laminated half page so far.

Salt levels:
3475 ppm per SALT-3050 digital meter, 3300 per Intellichlor (was 3600 last night)

pH:
pH per digital meter from TFP, not yet calibrated: 7.46
pH titration kit: 7.5

CL:
between .5 and 1
Chlorine 1ppm (drop test: 2 drops)
CC: 0
*IC40 has been running on super chlorinate since Thursday night, or about 1.5 days as of this reading

CH: 150-225 (test: 6-9 drops, x25)
Pool Math says add 50# - 67# of Calcium Chloride. I ordered two 50# bags of Snow Joe Melt, 94% pure calcium chloride - Please make sure I'm not making a dangerous mistake! eta 7/15/22.
Snow Joe Melt 50 lb. Resealable Bag Calcium Chloride Pellets Ice Melter MELT50CCP

TA: 100-110 (test: 10-11, x 10)
*Pool Math says the ideal range is 60-80, so this is already high?

CYA: 32 - Pool math says add 8# 10 oz (138oz) with this reading to get to 75 target.
With a 0 level it says 15#. I added 7.5# yesterday in an un-ideal fashion (poured it in a bucket of water, stirred it every 30 minutes, when I thought it was ready I poured about 3/4 of the mix and I noticed as the cloudy mix was settling there were flakes on the floor, so I swept that several times, it dissolved in < a couple hours. Looks like this reading is correct, I'll add another 4-6 pounds and re-test. I only bought 12#, so I'll have to get more before I add >12# (Clorox Pool&Spa Chlorine Stabilizer)

​

Here's the link to my self introduction, I'll be posting more specifics about my system soon.

Upgrading my pool from manual and tabs to Controller with SWG

I've had this pool/spa for 18 years and have looked at getting a chlorine generator a few times. I finally did it, and I'm almost done with the install: Intellicenter with IC40 and 2 valve controllers. I'm not sure the last time I drained my pool but it's been well over 5 years, so it's...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[mknauss]

Add liquid chlorine to get your FC to 5 ppm. The SWCG is used to maintain the FC level.

The reagents for the salinity test are in the kit.
R-0630
R-0718

 

[FSDpool]

I added 1 gallon of Clorox from the laundry room on 7/8/22 - almost put in another half gallon I had but that one was low splash.

7/12/2022 test:

CL: >5
PH: > 8.2 (7.89 - 7.97 per digital meter) - supposed to add 42oz Muriatic Acid per Pool Math
FC: 3-3.5 per drop test - Pool math says 4 is target, calls for 25oz of 6%
CC: .5
Total CL: 4-4.5
CH: 150 - pool math says add 67# of Calcium Chloride
TA: 120
CYA: 62 - 65 (not the easiest test for me!)
Salt (Sodium Chloride): 4000ppm - digital meter showed 3433, Intellicenter varies from 3300 - 4800.

100 pounds of Calcium Chloride will be delivered on Friday - seems strange to use ice melt in my pool for the first time

Snow Joe Melt 50 lb. Calcium Chloride Pellets Ice Melter MELT50CCP - The Home Depot

PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH. REMARKABLE RESULTS. Professional strength MELT is a unique formulation of calcium chloride pellets that accelerates the melting process by generating a large amount of heat on contact

www.homedepot.com

I'll grab some bleach and Muriatic acid tomorrow

The Free Chlorine and Cyanuric Acid Relationship

Managing your cyanuric acid and Free Chlorine levels is key to stabilizing your pool. Learn how these two items affect each other.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

CH: 150 - pool math says add 67# of Calcium Chloride

Test the CH of your fill water.

67 pounds will increase CH to ~450 ppm. Not a good starting point if you have hard water. When water evaporates, CH remains behind. Each time you top off with fill water, your CH level will rise.

 

[FSDpool]

This is a new fill with only Salt and CYA added so far - should I test just tap water?

Edit: my test kit was still out, I just tested the tap water.
Tap water's CH is 125-150ppm

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

This is a new fill with only Salt and CYA added so far - should I test just tap water?

No...I'm with you now...fresh fill so CH of fill water is 150 ppm.

I would target 250 ppm. That's min and a good starting point.

Do you know what the CH level was before your drained?

 

[FSDpool]

I don't. I wish I'd have kept a sample but I wasn't even sure I'd drain/refill. I suddenly decided to refill midway through my intellicenter install, I was debating it but wanted a full pool to test the equipment.

I'll target the lower amount and see how it works

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

That's okay.

When you have time, read this article. To mitigate scale on surfaces and in the cell, maintain CSI slightly negative (0.0 to -.31). It's easier to do with lower CH levels. In Pool Math, enable CSI tracking in the settings menu.

Calcium Saturation Index (CSI)

How is CSI calculated? Very simple – use our PoolMath tool. To ensure long plaster life and save money, click here to learn more.

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[FSDpool]

Added 23.25 pounds of Sodium Chloride 8 hours ago to raise CH

FC: 4.0
CC: 0
PH: 8.25
CH: 250-275 (10-11 drops)
TA: 130-140 (13-14 drops)
CYA: 56 (between 52 & 60, hard to tell exactly)
Salinity: 3800ppm per Taylor, 3533 per digital meter, 3500 per Intellicenter but it varies wildly, I assume between spa/pool
Water Temp: 77
Calculated CSI: 0.59 "Greater than 0.3 suggests potential for scaling"

Added 94oz (3 quarts) of 14.5% MA to lower pH to 7.6 per Pool Math. I'll test again in an hour or so.

.........30 minutes later: pH 7.71 per digital meter, I'll test everything again Sunday or Monday.

 

[FSDpool]

7/19/2022

FC: 3.5
CC: 0.5
TC: 4.0
PH: 8.14
CH: 250
TA: 120
CYA: 60
Salt: 3554 per digital meter
CSI: 0.39

Added after testing, per pool math's rec:
2.5 quarts 14.5% MA, I was surprised to see PH above 8 again
1 gallon 10% bleach, pool math said 138oz to target 8fc, I just did 128oz.

IC40 was at 60 pool, 25 spa, increased to 65/25

edit:
....Topped off evaporation loss, ran the garden hose into the pool for ~2 hours to raise water level ~2 inches, I think this is the first time since I filled it on 7/9/22. Both the pool and spa have been uncovered 100% of the time but I plan to start covering again within 2-3 weeks.

 

[FSDpool]

just tested pH again this morning - 8.06 per digital meter, real close to 8.2 per the small block titration test.

I added what Pool math called for: 70oz of MA - (2 quarts 6 oz).
---
edit:

Tested again ~1.5 hours later: 7.71 pH

Added 32oz 14.5% MA @ 9:45am - will test TA, CL (fc & cc), and pH later today. Pool math called for 21oz to lower from 7.71 to 7.6, Mike's rec was to take it to 7.4 so I added ~32oz ma which was all that's left from the first 2-pack of MA I've ever bought! .....1 hr later: pH 7.54 per digital meter.

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Your numbers are looking good, but CSI is a bit high when pH is in the higher range. Each time you add MA, TA will drop a bit. You can see that in your historical TA levels. Try lowering pH to 7.4 when is rises to 7.8. As you continue this cycle, TA will drop. As TA drops, so will CSI. Keep in mind higher TA fill water will want to pull up the TA in the pool water.

When a conflict arises between the drop-based pH test and the meter, trust the drops. Make sure Pool Math is set up for the lower strength MA (14.5%).

CH is at a good level. You will see CH rise over time as a result of evaporation and top offs.

 

[FSDpool]

Thanks Mike!

I tested ph and added more MA, I just modified the post above trying to keep it simple.

 

[reggiehammond]

Remember that CYA is always rounded up; there’s no reading between the 10’s. You should be using 70 for CYA based on what you’re reporting.

 

[FSDpool]

quick test:

FC: 7.5
CC: .5
TC: 8
pH digital: 7.79
pH titration: 7.8
TA: 120-130

**TA test: @ 12 drops it changed to red, at 13 it was Really Red. Is TA 120 or 130?

 

[mknauss]

**TA test: @ 12 drops it changed to red, at 13 it was Really Red. Is TA 120 or 130?

130

 

[rcs29]

Once the drops no longer change the color that is when the test is done. So in this case 130

 

[FSDpool]

I'm going to start the TA reducing process - drop pH to ~7.2, aerate to raise pH back to ~7.8, use MA to drop the pH......... rinse/repeat.

Pool Math is calling for ~1.25 gallons of 14.5% MA to do this - any idea on how many cycles it'll take?

My spa bubbles like crazy, I'll probably set my system to run very slowly in spillover mode while running the spa blower. I also bought an extra VS pump so maybe I'll set up some sort of water stream - I'll post a pic/clip if I do anything fun

I'll try to post results every day or so

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

"The acid/aeration process to lower TA:

1. Add acid to lower your PH to between 7.0 and 7.2 (this also lowers TA)
2. Aerate until PH rises to around 7.6 (the only way to raise PH without also raising TA)
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you reach the desired TA.

You can lower PH with muriatic acid or dry acid/PH Reducer. You can get an estimate of the amount of acid to use with PoolMath. Keep in mind that the amount of acid required can vary from the estimate. If your test kit includes the acid demand test, you can use that to calculate the amount of acid required more precisely. Allow at least 30 minutes after adding acid, with the pump running, before testing the PH again."

 

[FSDpool]

I'm wondering if TA is something I'll be able to lower and maintain, or if it's just not possible with some people's water:

Water Quality | Sandy City, UT - Official Website

Browse useful information about water quality in Sandy City.

sandy.utah.gov

Here's my notes since yesterday:

7/22/2022:
11:41am: added 64oz 31.45% MA
12:15pm: ph 7.41 per digital meter, turned on spa blower & mixing pool/spa water
1:49pm: pH: 7.46 per digital meter, spa blower still on, Pool math called for 41oz, I added ~32oz
2:58pm: pH 7.28 per digital, >7.2 per titration (blower’s still on)
4:30pm: PH titration: >7.2, PH digital: 7.28
TA: 120
7:42pm: pH 7.46 per digital, added 64oz MA (aiming closer to ph of 7)

7/23/2022 @ 9:39am
FC: 7.5
CC: 0.5
pH titration: >7.2
pH digital: 7.37
TA: 110

**the spa blower has been on for ~20 hours as of now

 

[mknauss]

Why are you aggressively pushing TA down?