First post - Starting right

[Froodo1]

Hello All,
I'm excited to join this community of kind and driven pool enthusiasts .
I'm from Phoenix, AZ area. We changed our pool water a couple of years back. As the temperature is slowly rising, I decided to get my water tested at Lesslie.
Following was the result:
FC-5
TAC-5
CH-480
CYA-170
TA-170
pH-8.0

Due to high CYA, the recommendation was to empty out and refill the pool. Right now, the water "looks" okay (i.e. no algae). I've already added sufficient muriatic acid to bring the pH down.

I started visiting this forum only a few in last summer (when I almost stopped using Chlorine Tabs and shock), but apparently the "damage" ( vis-a-vis high CYA ) was already done. I'm now planning to order my own TFT-100 test kit, before taking any further step.
I'm writing this post as wanted to know in case, the test kit also reports an unmanageable high level of CYA, and I decide to empty-out-and-refill water, how should I proceed to balance the chemicals in the "new" pool water:

1) Last time we did this, my pool guy poured a bottle of some sort of "stablizer" / pool starter bottle along with other stuff to set the chemicals levels "right".
Should I go that route ? (I'm growing more and more suspicious of these)
2) Manage the various components (pH/cya/TA/FC) myself. ( I would prefer this). If so, in what order should I go about it ? Any useful link to manage chemicals when (re)starting a pool ?

Much appreciate any help.
Thank you !

PS: I'll update this post in a few days with the test-kit test results.

 

[Texas Splash]

Welcome! If you totally drained the pool, then your CYA is all gone. You can assume a CYA of zero and use the Poolmath app to add enough granular to increase the CYA to 30. Once the stabilizer is all dissolved (using the sock method), consider that goal attained and balance your FC to that CYA of 30 as noted on the Chlorine/CYA chart (link below. Once your TF-100 arrives, re-test everything and manage according the the TFP Recommended Levels Chart. You're on your way!

Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.

 

[kimkats]

You do not have to drain the whole pool. You will only need to drain it enough to lower the CH and CYA. You will use Pool Math. I will provide the link in a few.

We are going to teach you a whole new way of taking care of your pool. It will be easier, cheaper, and your pool will look better than ever! Here is a set of links I put together for new pool owners. It is also useful to people new to TFP:

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Trouble Free Pool (link to our Pool Math app)

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

When you get your test kit please add it to your siggy so everyone will now what you are working with.

So how are you planning on adding FC from now on? Have you thought about getting a SWG as seen here: Trouble Free Pool

The neatest part about all of this?? You CAN do it all on your own with our help and we LOVE to help!!!

Kim

 

[YippeeSkippy]

You might want to do a "drain & refill" at the same time so that your plaster isn't exposed to too much dry heat.
I'll chime in @mknauss from your area to explain the procedure and how to best do it based on the temp of your pool and the fill water. This will protect your pool and that's important!

Maddie

 

[mknauss]

You can exchange some water without draining.

If you place a low volume sub pump in the deep end and pull water from there while adding water in the shallow end (through a skimmer or into a bucket on a step so you lessen the water disturbance) you can do a fairly efficient exchange. That is assuming the water you are filling with is the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose on bottom) and pull water from the top step.

The location of the pump and fill hose may change if you have salt water, high calcium, etc.
In my pool, with saltwater and high calcium when I drain, I put the pump in the deep end and hose in shallow end. The water in the pool weighs more per unit volume than the fill water from the hose.

Be sure to balance the water out and water in so the pool level stays the same. Also be sure your pool pump is disabled during this process. Once started do not stop until you have exchanged the amount of water you wish.

 

[Froodo1]

Thanks a lot to everyone for a warm welcome and quick replies.

My test kit should arrive soon. Thankfully there are a couple of "cooler days" ahead, so hoping to get the full/partial drain-refill done in that sweet-spot. In the meantime, I'll go over all the links to get myself prepared.
Lastly, SWG is something I can only think about next year (due to budget constraints).

Thanks again ! I'll update the post with my first test-kit results

 

[kimkats]

If a SWG is on Santa's list then look around to find where you can get liquid chlorine for your best price. Some pool stores carry it. You put a deposit down on their jugs and bring them back to be refilled when needed.

 

[Froodo1]

So, the kit arrived today. CYA was high 160-170. I started the water drain today. Will start filling in a few hours from now.
The questions I have now are:

1) I got the fine granular stabilizer (99% CYA). The directions on the packet are quite different to the "sock" method. Should I still go ahead with the latter ? ( The instructions on the packet asks to mix half of the contents with water and pour that into the skimmer. Run the pump for few hours and repeat this with the rest of the contents ...if needed )
2) They also recommend a pH range of 7.2-7.4. I'm unsure whether this is a nice to have prerequisite or a "general" direction on the pH of water ?
3) Which brings me to my last question - in what order should I start getting the chemicals in their recommended range (Recommended Levels - Trouble Free Pool). Is there a preferred order ?

Thanks again! BTW, it was great fun doing my own pool water testing today !

 

[Rancho Cost-a-Lotta]

Here is a current thread on adding CYA. I just dont 'get' adding CYA.

 

[kimkats]

You can adjust all of the levels at the same time EXCEPT FC and pH. Chlorine and muriatic acid should not be added at the same time. I do the chlorine then wait about 15 mins and do the m.a. I do brush the pool after adding the m.a. even though I add it by pouring it in right by the return jet to be on the extra safe side.

That link about adding CYA should cover you on that one.

Kim