Fine Tuning an SWG

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KDpoolguy

KDpoolguy

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Bronze Supporter
Mar 5, 2017
603
Palm Desert, CA
Pool Size
17000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Aqua Rite (T-9)
How can I better manage my chlorine level from my Hayward SWG? It just seems high to me. I normally kept my free chlorine level at 2-3 and with the SWG I consistently get
TC: 5+
FC: 5-7
CYA (still settling): 60
I am running the pump for 12 hours at 1150rpm with output of 50%. I look at the watts/amps and when I adjust the output those #s don’t seem to change (is that normal!?). I reduced output to 35% and didn’t see a reduction. I’m using a K1001 and 9056 because the levels are so high.
I wonder if I should accept these higher levels, or decrease pump run time? Summers coming and pool temps are now at mid-70s and it still seems high.
It’s nice not having to add liquid chlorine, so I’m becoming a believer.
 
You can use Pool Math to help. I did a quick run and show you add 1.5 ppm FC with 35% and 7.25 hrs run time. Not surprising your level is not dropping with the longer run time. Don't know your actual chlorine demand but 1.5 is fairly typical this time of year. So drop your run time to less than 7 hr for a day or two. When you get close to the recommended FC level for your CYA then you can raise it to 7 or 8 hrs. I've found this Pool Math calculator for SWG to be very accurate. If you prefer to run longer you can us the PM calculator to determine % power also.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 
Thanks Chris, I have Pool Math in my phone and had no idea it was so robust with specs on my exact SWG. Great tip!

I really was surprised that even at 40% output it was churning out that much chlorine. I have got it (SWG) running for maybe only a full month now so I’m finally dialing in the needs of the pool, and thought maybe it was my use of the larger Taylor test vials (getting wonky results) that when I got new chems for my old standby K1001, I got worried. I sat in the spa a week ago and the smell and skin irritation was making me feel it was due to inadequate chlorine, but the opposite held true.

It’s been a challenge having been unusually windy (20-30mph winds and 40+ gusts every night for weeks now) so I was needing to run the pump longer. Certainly as summer approaches I know the demand is gonna spike.
 
KDpoolguy said:
I am running the pump for 12 hours at 1150rpm with output of 50%. I look at the watts/amps and when I adjust the output those #s don’t seem to change (is that normal!?). I reduced output to 35% and didn’t see a reduction.
Click to expand...

What watts/amps are you looking at?

KDpoolguy said:
I sat in the spa a week ago and the smell and skin irritation was making me feel it was due to inadequate chlorine, but the opposite held true.
Click to expand...

Does your ET turn down the SWG % when in SPA mode?
 
KDpoolguy said:
Thanks Chris, I have Pool Math in my phone and had no idea it was so robust with specs on my exact SWG. Great tip!

I really was surprised that even at 40% output it was churning out that much chlorine. I have got it (SWG) running for maybe only a full month now so I’m finally dialing in the needs of the pool, and thought maybe it was my use of the larger Taylor test vials (getting wonky results) that when I got new chems for my old standby K1001, I got worried. I sat in the spa a week ago and the smell and skin irritation was making me feel it was due to inadequate chlorine, but the opposite held true.

It’s been a challenge having been unusually windy (20-30mph winds and 40+ gusts every night for weeks now) so I was needing to run the pump longer. Certainly as summer approaches I know the demand is gonna spike.
Click to expand...
KD,

Glad that information was helpful. Looks like your SWG is properly sized. They should be sized for 2X the recommended pool size. This allows you to run below 50% power which greatly extends your cell life. Wow that's a lot of wind, so I'm assuming the run time is due to dust? Strong winds will contribute to a lot of evaporation. May want to test a little more frequently. You should also post a complete set of test results so we can make sure you are in the proper range to avoid calcium deposits on the cell plates. Cleaning the cell too frequently reduces cell life also.

As Allen points out you should not run the chlorinator when in spa mode. Since the spa has much lower volume the FC will spike way too high.

Enjoy your pool!

Chris
 
The watts/amps have nothing to do with how much chlorine the unit is producing while it is on. They let you know if the SWG is making chlorine or not making chlorine, it will produce chlorine at the same rate no matter what those numbers are. It is the output % and pump run time that determines how much chlorine is going to be produced in a day. If you run the pump 24 hours a day and set the output to 50%, then the SWG will be making chlorine for 12 hours of the day.

If you have the SWG making chlorine while you are using the spa, the water will get over chlorinated very quickly. Personally, I turn off the SWG while I'm in the spa and then run the spa for 15 minutes on overflow to cool down the heater and replenish the chlorine in the spa with the main pool water when I'm finished using the spa.
 
Kevin,

Are you making your % of output adjustments on your EasyTouch or the Hayward control box? I ask because if the EasyTouch were in control, it would automatically reduce the amount of chlorine that was being made when in the Spa mode.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
Are you making your % of output adjustments on your EasyTouch or the Hayward control box?
Click to expand...

It has the Hayward box controlling it. When the cell is due for replace (it’s only 6 months old now), I’m going to replace with a Pentair SWG so the Easytouch is in control.
 

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Thank you. Hmmm. So would that make the Hayward box a slave and Easytouch in Master control? That’s a good project to pursue since it’s 3+ years before I need a new cell, right? Any recommendation on type of wire to use? I’m assuming a 4-wire solid strand, maybe like alarm/motion sensor wire which is usually 18-22 gauge?
 
I normally keep my FC in the 5-7 range, even though TFP has lower recommendations for SWG. People here have assured me that there's no problem with having it at that level. I used to try to figure out the SWG more carefully and decided I was overthinking things. I just make % adjustments based on the trends I see in my water tests.

One thing I like about keeping the FC a little higher is that if there's something in the water that makes it drop quickly, I usually catch it while I still have chlorine in the 2-3 range and can take corrective action before I'm down in the 0-1 range. Now if I was good and tested my FC every day, I might keep it a little lower, but reality sinks in and it doesn't quite happen every day...so I'll call my FC 5-7 range my reality buffer :)
 
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I roll like that most days...oh what am I saying! If I spent as much time in the water as I did managing my pool, I’d be a puckered mess. I took the panel off my Aquarite and see the RS-485 area. I’m still not sure how it will operate. Will all the switches and inputs made on the panel be null?
 
KDpoolguy said:
I roll like that most days...oh what am I saying! If I spent as much time in the water as I did managing my pool, I’d be a puckered mess. I took the panel off my Aquarite and see the RS-485 area. I’m still not sure how it will operate. Will all the switches and inputs made on the panel be null?
Click to expand...
The switches will still operate, it's the percentage dial that will be overridden and the Remotely Controlled light will be illuminated.
 

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