Finally setting up new pool (some basic chem questions)

Diesel72

0
Gold Supporter
Jun 10, 2018
5
Oswego/IL
Pool Size
11500
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hi All,

Quick intro:
Had a new 15K gallon fiberglass pool install last fall, but the early snow in November force the setup of equipment to be pushed back to the spring. Well, finally have everything setup and chemicals are going in! On the plus side, I have been pouring over the TFP site for the past 6 months learning everything I can. I have the TF-100 kit with speed stir and even practiced all the tests with tap water. (I’ll get my profile updated with all my equipment soon).

Full initial test results:
FC: 7
CC: 1
CYA: 0
PH: 8
TA: 270
CH: 200

Anyway, went to Leslies to get chemicals and also have them test my water just to compare results. For the most part our results were the exact same...except for TA. I had a TA reading of 270 and they had 190 (I trust mine). Either way, it needs to come down. So, I just want to make sure I’m doing this correctly. I’m using dry acid, and according to the directions I shouldn’t put in more than 20oz for every 10,000 gallons at a time. Since my pool is 15K, I’ve been putting in 30oz ever four hours (mixing it in a 5 gallon bucket first). I measure the TA before putting in more acid and it is going down. Seems to go down 10ppm each time, so this will take awhile, but it’s working. Does this sound right? Should I just keep following this, or are there some tricks to speed it up?

Next question...
I’m going to raise CYA to 30 to start and raise up to 40 if chlorine seems to burn off too quickly. Can I add CYA at the same time as the acid? I was thinking I could add the acid, wait a couple hours to let it mix, then add the CYA (I have the liquid). Would that be ok, or should I wait until TA adjustment is finished?

This may be normal, but I found it interesting that with zero CYA my FC only dropped from 7 to 5 yesterday even though the cover was open and the pool was in full sun all day.

Thank you for the help. I plan on donating soon and uploading several pics of the pool build.
 
Welcome! :wave: Good job on the testing and test kit. :goodjob: As for the pool store testing, simply ignore it. It's typical in your area to have an elevated TA. Instead of dry acid, we recommend muriatic acid (35.45% strength) for more efficient results. See Lower Total Alkalinity - Trouble Free Pool for more details.

Yes, you can add the stabilizer anytime using the sock-soaking method as follows:
Adding CYA:
To increase CYA via granular stabilizer, place the required amount as calculated by the Poolmath calculator into a white sock and place in the poolside skimmer basket. For those concerned about suction flow to the pump, suspending the sock near a return jet or from a floating device will also suffice. Best never to allow undissolved granules to rest directly against the pool surface. Squeeze the sock periodically to help it dissipate. Once dissolved, consider your CYA adjusted to that programmed (target) level. CYA test readings should show a rise in 24-48 hours, however some pools may experience a longer delay to fully register. Best to confirm final CYA in about 5-7 days before adding any more stabilizer/conditioner.
 
Thanks for the quick response. I thought I read somewhere that dry acid was recommended for fiberglass pools, but I’d be happy to switch to muriatic if it will speed things up without effecting anything.

I was going to use liquid CYA just because it wasn’t that much more expensive and seemed easier. Are there any other cons to using the liquid other than cost?
 
Yes, many pool stores and sometimes installers mention dry acid. However it costs more and tends to add sulfates to the water which can be an issue later. Muriatic Acid (MA) is simply easier to use and works very well. Of course you have to be careful with it (fumes & splashing), and also ensure you store it somewhere away from everything eles (corrosive). I keep mine in a storage container outside away from kids & pets. The heat won't bother it. Pour slowly near the return jets and never add MA at the exact same time & location as chlorine/bleach.

As for the stabilizer versus lquid conditioner, they both work, it's just about the cost. Feel free to purchase whichever one you prefer.
 
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