Finally connecting light after 3 years.

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J

josh_s

Member
Jul 19, 2015
16
mesa, az
Pool Size
18000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Please don't judge me for my procrastination on this. Built a pool back in 19 and have yet to get the light connected. I believe the light is a pentair 400w incandescent. Definitely not LED. I was looking for a bit of info to help refresh my memory on connecting the light and bonding. See photos from initial fill and then photo of the current jbox.
My questions
1. The insulated green wire (bonding) should be cut and terminated on one of the ground lugs in the jbox, correct? Note that before shot crete, I bonded the outside niche lug to the rebar cage. Also note that pvc extra rigid, non metallic conduit was used from niche to jbox. 3M compound was used on the connection in the niche.
2. I have a 20A GFCI breaker in a sub panel that will be for the light. I plan to install a switch for control of the light electrically upstream of the jbox. What size wire is recommended for a 75 foot run from sub panel/switch to the light jbox. I plan on running a hot/neutral/ground. The whip from the pentair light has black/white/green. Should I just wirenut everything together in the jbox (white to white, black to black, green to green)?
Thanks. Always appreciate the amazing info on this site. Couldn’t have done it without you guys.
 

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Yep you've pretty much got it figured out. 20A circuit should be 12 Gauge wire for all 3 wires (black, white and green), no need for anything heavier for a 400 W load.
And yes you are correct the box needs to be tied to the ground as well. The typical method is to attach a short length (6") of green wire to the screw in the box and then wire-nut all three greens (the feed, the light and the pigtail) together. Then you can wirenut white to white and black to black as you say.

If the switch is to be located outside ensure that it's enclosed in a suitable water-tight box. (Same sort of box as the junction box in the picture).
 
josh_s said:
Please don't judge me for my procrastination on this. Built a pool back in 19 and have yet to get the light connected. I believe the light is a pentair 400w incandescent. Definitely not LED. I was looking for a bit of info to help refresh my memory on connecting the light and bonding. See photos from initial fill and then photo of the current jbox.
My questions
1. The insulated green wire (bonding) should be cut and terminated on one of the ground lugs in the jbox, correct? Note that before shot crete, I bonded the outside niche lug to the rebar cage. Also note that pvc extra rigid, non metallic conduit was used from niche to jbox. 3M compound was used on the connection in the niche.
2. I have a 20A GFCI breaker in a sub panel that will be for the light. I plan to install a switch for control of the light electrically upstream of the jbox. What size wire is recommended for a 75 foot run from sub panel/switch to the light jbox. I plan on running a hot/neutral/ground. The whip from the pentair light has black/white/green. Should I just wirenut everything together in the jbox (white to white, black to black, green to green)?
Thanks. Always appreciate the amazing info on this site. Couldn’t have done it without you guys.
Click to expand...
Be sure to encapsulate the bond wire in the niche. AquaBond ABP-1000 is the most common compound used but there may be others.
 
That junction box possibly doesn't meet NEC requirements.
Corrosion resistant? Looks like dissimilar metals.
Strain relief? Not apparent.
Water proof? Looks like open holes to the outside rear.

It would be better to use something similar to this:

NEC 680.24(A) and 680.24(B)
 
That box looks like a standard name-brand aluminum weatherproof box to me. Likely one of these:
www.homedepot.com

Commercial Electric 3/4 in. Gray 2-Gang 5-Holes Weatherproof Box WDB575G - The Home Depot

Commercial Electric weatherproof boxes are designed for use in branch circuit wiring in wet, damp or dry locations. Boxes house receptacles, switches and GFCI's. Boxes may also be used as a weatherproof
www.homedepot.com

Assuming Josh fits it with an appropriate cover with gasket it will be just fine.
 
Thanks for the quick responses.
The box is what flyn posted. I'll get a WP cover on it when complete.
The underwater connection was treated with a compound per pentair requirements.
I dug through their install manuals for the niche and the light and attaching them here.

This was from the niche install manual.
Note: If using non-metallic conduit (PVC), a No.8 AWG bonding/grounding wire must be installed through the conduit from the junction box to the bonding/grounding lug inside the niche. The connection inside the niche must be sealed with a listed sealant such as Pentair P/N 60028300 or equivalent

Got the mule tape pulled through yesterday, so now i just need to go grab some wire and get this light burning. :)
 

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Also, I just noticed that my description tag is from my old house pool. I'll have to go through and update my build thread on here. I know people building their own really appreciate that information.
 
Hi pro -- I agree. 680.24-A-1 states that it should be labeled as a swimming pool jbox. I installed a typical outdoor WP j box which by the letter of the code isn't allowed. Thanks for the amazon link. I followed it and found that I actually bought the attached (related products). Now i just need to find it in my garage!

Should be easy enough to disassemble what i have and replace.
 

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josh_s said:
Hi pro -- I agree. 680.24-A-1 states that it should be labeled as a swimming pool jbox. I installed a typical outdoor WP j box which by the letter of the code isn't allowed. Thanks for the amazon link. I followed it and found that I actually bought the attached (related products). Now i just need to find it in my garage!

Should be easy enough to disassemble what i have and replace.
Click to expand...
Be sure to bring the bond wire from the rest of the pool equipment and attach to the bond lug on the bottom of that box.
 

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josh_s said:
my pump is bonded to structure. This jbox is ~20 feet away from pool and ~75 feet away from equipment/subpanel.
Click to expand...
Distance doesn't matter, it still needs to be properly bonded to your pool bonding grid.
Would you think the pool pump wouldn't need to be bonded if it was 75 feet from the pool or other pool equilment?
 
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josh_s said:
Understood.
Back at the equipment pad, do i just put the #8 on the bonding lug (double up with bonding wire to structure) on the pump?
Click to expand...
Some newer A.O.Smith (Century) motors have a bond lug that will accept two conductors. If not, and if they are code in AZ (they are in CA), these will work (Home Depot as well) to attach to an existing area of the bond wire:
 
Thanks, poolman.

One other question at the equipment. What is the best way to get the #8 out of the box at the equipment skid? Use a threaded seal tight connection in one of the knockouts that are provided?
 
josh_s said:
Thanks, poolman.

One other question at the equipment. What is the best way to get the #8 out of the box at the equipment skid? Use a threaded seal tight connection in one of the knockouts that are provided?
Click to expand...
Picture? The bond wire should be running to each piece of equipment that is metal. You can attach anywhere in that wire.
 
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josh_s said:
Hi poolman - Can you look at attached? Is this wiring diagram incorrect?
Click to expand...

Seems to be, yes, as long as the rest of the equipment is also bonded. Still believe the exterior bond lug on the J-box needs to be connected to the rest pool equipment bond wire. The connection inside the light niche is subject to failure if not encapsulated.
 
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