Filter Elements

Ukiwis

Well-known member
Jul 22, 2018
93
California
I've owned my house (and Pool) for a year and I'm thinking I should probably either clean or replace the filter elements. To be honest I thought that my pool guy would have probably suggested I do this already but he hasn't been forthcoming with that info so I'm doing some research. It doesn't seem to be too complicated so provided I can source the right bits and pieces I think I can do it myself. Can someone please confirm that what I have is actually a Pentair CCP520?

Since I have no idea of the condition or the age of the elements I'm planning to replace them outright then will set a regular cleaning schedule for them. Is once a year good enough? Pool is around 25000 gallons and located in La Quinta, CA. (Windy and dusty from time to time). The elements are not cheap at the local pool supply store but are reasonably priced online. Does the OEM product last 3 times as long as the third party brands? Is it a case of you get what you pay for or should I simply go with the price/ratings online?

TIA
KIWI
 

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You should clean your filter elements when the filter pressure rises 25% over clean pressure.

But in your case, you do not know the clean pressure.

I would take them out and clean them. The only reason to replace them is if the filter media is compromised or the end caps are deteriorated. Some pool store potions (floc, clarifier) can mess them up. You can soak them in TSP solution if they appear to have sunscreen / lotion build up on them.

I clean my oversized filter once a year. I see at most a 1 psi rise in filter pressure over the year at a set rpm.

I agree with Gene, if you wish to replace them, buy Pleatco brand cartridges.
 
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I have the same monster filter. Given that your pool guy is too lazy to do his job (though some pool services charge extra for this), you definitely need to open up that baby and have a look. Who knows when the previous owners replaced or even cleaned the cartridges? You've already slid by a year too long. When I bought my house with pool, having no knowledge of the previous owners' habits, my strategy was the same as yours: buy new cartridges (and o-ring) right away and start fresh with a known schedule. Cheap compared to the price of the house. It's your choice whether to examine the existing ones first, knowing you'll have to put them back in if they're in bad shape until you get new ones.

Having the same filter, I will pass along some pro tips. I'll presume you have the filter manual and know the obvious, like remove power from the pump and open the filter pressure relief valve to let air in and let the pressure equalize before loosening and removing the filter clamp.

Wear gloves. Those older tanks have nasty fiberglass hulls and they will irritate your skin. Disposable medical gloves are good for this. They will also keep your hands from turning black when you lube the o-rings. (Might as well lube the pump basket o-ring at the same time.)

Once you've removed the filter clamp and the top half of the shell, you can eyeball the innards, remove the top manifold, and pull out the cartridges. You have a big filter there, and those big cartridges are heavy when waterlogged, so be careful slinging them around. Stand them on end and inspect them well. They will be full of disgusting crud, but what you're looking for is tears or holes in the cartridges, or other obvious signs of wear like broken plastic bands or broken top/bottom parts.

After removing the carts, there will be dirty water at the bottom of the tank. Do not open the drain plug at the bottom front of the tank. Why not? (1) All that dirt will drain onto your equipment pad and then you'll have to clean it up. (2) Your filter is not young, and the threads for the plug have been known to deform, leading to leaks. (3) It's illegal in at least some parts of CA to release pool water where it can flow to a storm drain. Get the dirt out of the bottom some other way. I use a shop-vac.

There are various tools you can search for that speed clean these big carts faster than a garden hose alone. I like the Aqua Comb, other folks have different preferences.

Given the size of the belt clamp, it's pretty unwieldy and the only hard part of the process is getting it back on properly. For this part, it's easier to have an assistant to hold the opposite side of the clamp while you get it positioned and partially tightened. The assistant might as well hang around to do the tap-tap-tapping of the rubber mallet to help seat the clamp while you finish tightening.

After reassembling the filter and restarting the pump, you will probably see drips dropping from the clamp. Don't panic. This does not necessarily mean the filter is leaking. There will always be a few drips just from water being outside the tank. Dry the drips with a towel and give it some time to determine whether you have actual leaks.

Good luck, and happy filtering!
 
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As you aren't familiar with this task, take loads of pictures for when you start doubting yourself. Be careful with the large "O" ring between the two halves. They stretch very fast when they're old and you won't be able to make it work when you reassemble.
 
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I changed the pump lids today as they're old and it's not possible to see through them. It says to fill with water before putting the lids back on but the water simply drains out into the inlet pipe. Is there some trick to doing this or is it OK to just let the water level? It gets to about the half way mark.
 

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Just put the lids on and prime the pump. Be sure it primes in a minute or two.

So this wasn't quite as simple as it seemed. I closed the clsoest valve that is the picture, filled the pump up with water, put the lid on, put the valve back where it was and turned on the pump....it primed and it was good to go. The next morning the filter pump wouldn't turn on completely. It was running, but I think it was going at the lower speed settting...but there was no water flowing back into to the pool.....basket area had no water

I discovered that when the pump turned off, all the water would drain back out the inlet pipe and there would be very little water where the basket was located. So I removed the lid and placed the hose in the basket and turned it on. After about 10 mins the water would overflow the basket and I put the lid on and fired it up again. All was good, and when I turned it off the water level would stay very close to the top. This morning the filter started as normal and I had flow back to the pool. Woohoo!
 
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