Filling up new pool as we speak :)

LazyWarrior

Member
Jan 31, 2021
8
South Florida
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
tldr: If using 3” tablets through an auto chlorinator, when self testing the water, if my CYA is at a good level can I just add liquid chlorine safely to the body of water?

Good evening everyone, I have been lurking here and reading, reading, reading. Just wanted to say there is a ton of info here and I want to say thank you guys for having all of this online! I just have one question. Where the pool is located, it gets sun from sunrise to sunset with no break at all. My equipment was installed when I was not here & the installer added a Rainbow 320 Chlorinator. Originally I was going to add liquid chlorine (in front of a return jet) once I began regular maintenance. However, the builder stated since I have so much sun exposure, he recommended using the tabs to bring up CYA levels but not to use it as a sole supplier of chlorine & that it was safe to add liquid chlorine into the body of water. I understand I need to self test the water & never add anything but the proper tablets to the Rainbow. Is he correct that I can add liquid chlorine as well? I thought it was one or the other for chlorine?
 
Welcome to TFP.

Yes, you can supplement Trichlor tablets with liquid chlorine. However, the tablets are adding chlorine, CYA, and acid to your pool. We think it is better for you to add stabilizer to bring your CYA up to 30-50, add liquid chlorine daily, and muriatic acid as needed, and don’t use the Trichlor tablets.

I suggest you read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

What test kit are you using?
 
I understand I need to self test the water & never add anything but the proper tablets to the Rainbow. Is he correct that I can add liquid chlorine as well? I thought it was one or the other for chlorine?
It is fine to use both tablets (pucks) and liquid chlorine (LC). Keep your pucks for special needs such as when you go away for several days. I test the pool, add a little extra LC and then add the pucks. When I return, I immediately remove the pucks, test the water and regulate FC with LC.
Further more, as a reference - Each 8 ounce trichlor tablet (puck) will add 5.5ppm FC, add 3.3ppm CYA and drop pH by 0.29 in a 10,000 gal pool. So you can see that it adds CYA very slowly. And this implies a fully dissolved puck. So if you wish to raise CYA it is best to use granular stabilizer and follow instructions on that.
 
@ajw22 thank you. I just ordered the colorq 2x. Pool is about 3/4 filled. The test kit will not get here in time for me to test the water when filled. Contractor is giving me 4 weeks of free service. I’ll test the waters the second it arrives to see the chemical balance from the pool service.

@HermanTX thank you. Our pool is 20k gallons. With my job, at worst i’m gone 4 days straight about twice a month. Daily liquid chlorine is not an option for me. The contractor knows this and he mentioned that as a reason why he added the chlorinator.
 
With my job, at worst i’m gone 4 days straight about twice a month. Daily liquid chlorine is not an option for me. The contractor knows this and he mentioned that as a reason why he added the chlorinator.
My pool is a little smaller but I routinely visit grandchildren for 4-5 days away and use pucks after I increase the LC dose then add 2-3 pucks to a floater in the pool before I leave. I then remove the pucks upon return and keep them for next use. It may take 2-4 trips away before that lot of pucks has fully dissolved. This has worked for me and kept me algae free. I guess my point is - don't get reliant on pucks because in the long term it will raise CYA and that causes even higher FC levels to keep sanitized refer to FC/CYA Levels. So if you use pucks in small doses and take advantage of weather such as heavy rains to dilute your pool water (drain some before the rain and let the rain fill it back up), you can manage CYA in reasonable levels i.e. below 70ppm without issue.
 
My pool is a little smaller but I routinely visit grandchildren for 4-5 days away and use pucks after I increase the LC dose then add 2-3 pucks to a floater in the pool before I leave. I then remove the pucks upon return and keep them for next use. It may take 2-4 trips away before that lot of pucks has fully dissolved. This has worked for me and kept me algae free. I guess my point is - don't get reliant on pucks because in the long term it will raise CYA and that causes even higher FC levels to keep sanitized refer to FC/CYA Levels. So if you use pucks in small doses and take advantage of weather such as heavy rains to dilute your pool water (drain some before the rain and let the rain fill it back up), you can manage CYA in reasonable levels i.e. below 70ppm without issue.

South Florida rainy season will help incase of high CYA, didn’t even think of that! My plan was to mainly use liquid chlorine but always leave one or two pucks a month. I understand only time will tell as I start using the pool and record the data with the pool test.
 
A chlorinator is nice to have as a backup system, and they aren’t expensive to install in the first place.

While chlorine tablets are frowned upon here, I don’t see a problem with using them as long as you monitor your CYA level. And in your case, tablets are ideal to use for the short periods you’re away. As others suggested, add extra liquid chlorine before you leave for your 4 day stints, and then add a puck or two to the chlorinator to keep your FC up. Then remove the tablets when you get back.
 
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A chlorinator is nice to have as a backup system, and they aren’t expensive to install in the first place.

While chlorine tablets are frowned upon here, I don’t see a problem with using them as long as you monitor your CYA level. And in your case, tablets are ideal to use for the short periods you’re away. As others suggested, add extra liquid chlorine before you leave for your 4 day stints, and then add a puck or two to the chlorinator to keep your FC up. Then remove the tablets when you get back.

I thought a tablet or two would dissolve pretty quick due to the south florida sun/heat. With everyones response, i’m wrong.
 

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The chlorinator should have a dial on the side where you can adjust the flow rate, which in turns adjusts how quickly the tablets dissolve. You’ll have to do a little trial and error to figure out how many tablets you need for the 4 days. If you add a lot of extra liquid chlorine before you leave, you can probably just trickle in the tablets.

Fill you your signature when you have a chance and people can give better advice.
 
I thought a tablet or two would dissolve pretty quick due to the south florida sun/heat. With everyones response, i’m wrong.
If you have pucks in your chlorinator, how long your run your pump will be 1 factor because it is flow related. Also, the inline chlorinator has settings to also control flow through it so there are 2 variables to dissolve a puck in a inline chlorinator. I use a floater which stays in pool 100% so I know chlorine is always there - even if we lose electricity for some odd reason and pump stops. Again, how quickly it dissolves is base on flow through it - sometimes it is caught in an eddy current where the spa overflows into the pool. Other times it is hanging out in a quiet corner. Just need to monitor whatever method you use. Also, sunlight uses more chlorine, so in summer you may want to open up your dial on the inline chlorinator more than you would do for winter time.

Just remember the FC/CYA Levels because you can swim up to the SLAM level of FC for your given CYA. Therefore, don't be afraid to add extra LC while you are away, especial in summer months, because you definitely do not want to come back to algae.
 
If you have pucks in your chlorinator, how long your run your pump will be 1 factor because it is flow related. Also, the inline chlorinator has settings to also control flow through it so there are 2 variables to dissolve a puck in a inline chlorinator. I use a floater which stays in pool 100% so I know chlorine is always there - even if we lose electricity for some odd reason and pump stops. Again, how quickly it dissolves is base on flow through it - sometimes it is caught in an eddy current where the spa overflows into the pool. Other times it is hanging out in a quiet corner. Just need to monitor whatever method you use. Also, sunlight uses more chlorine, so in summer you may want to open up your dial on the inline chlorinator more than you would do for winter time.

Just remember the FC/CYA Levels because you can swim up to the SLAM level of FC for your given CYA. Therefore, don't be afraid to add extra LC while you are away, especial in summer months, because you definitely do not want to come back to algae.
Thanks for the info. Test kit comes in today so i can see where the numbers are.

One other thing I forgot to ask. I’ve been given different info as to when I can start the heater. I’ve been tood i can start already, wait 30 days, wait 45 days. I’m going with “wait til there is no more plaster dust when i brush the pool”. Which one would be more accurate?
 
When you say “fill your signature” i’m not the best with forum talk.

From the TFP Plaster Start up article " The heater should not be operated for about 2 weeks after filling. If practical, bypass the heater during this period. Newly plastered pools will create a lot of plaster dust and this dust can find it’s way into the smaller tubes of your heater clogging it up. By bypassing your heater you avoid the risk of damage to your heater. "
 
One other thing I forgot to ask. I’ve been given different info as to when I can start the heater. I’ve been tood i can start already, wait 30 days, wait 45 days. I’m going with “wait til there is no more plaster dust when i brush the pool”. Which one would be more accurate?

From Plaster Installation and Maintenance - Further Reading

Why no heater use for first 30 days? With new plaster there is a lot of plaster dust in the water and the pH is usually very high. When you heat water the potential for scale formation in the heater increases significantly. The actual timeframe for waiting to use the heater has no real merit. As long as the plaster dust is under control and the pH is in range there is no reason not to use it. Your risk of rushing to use the heater is scale clogging up the heater coil.
 

From the TFP Plaster Start up article " The heater should not be operated for about 2 weeks after filling. If practical, bypass the heater during this period. Newly plastered pools will create a lot of plaster dust and this dust can find it’s way into the smaller tubes of your heater clogging it up. By bypassing your heater you avoid the risk of damage to your heater. "
I’ll look at the signsture later, thanks! As for the heater, i do have the bypass off. Only wime water went in was to make sure the wifi controlls worked when first installed.
 
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