Figuring out the pool

jben04

Well-known member
May 17, 2011
61
Beaufort SC
Pool Size
7600
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Have this larger pool since April (18 x 48), and everything was going good till few weeks ago,,, was using the HTH test strips.. replaced just over a half of the pool water in a attempt to lower the "extremely high CYA " now the pool is cloudy , and i can't get it to clear up.
Went ahead and ordered the TF-100 and here are the results.
CL 5
Br 10
Ph 7.8
Fc 8
Cc 10 = Total Chlorine 18
Ch 1000ppm? ( it took to 40 drops to get it to a light pink colour)
Ta 230
CYA 35 ( it was dead center beteween 30 and 40)

After using the "pool Calculator".. for the first time,, would i be correct to be reading it that i need to replace 75% of the water?
 
Good on getting a proper test kit.
You do not have a bromine pool, so the Br is not for your pool.
Redo the FAS-DPD test. 10 ml of water, one scoop of R0870 powder, and each drop of R0871 to get to clear is 0.5ppm FC.
It is not likely your calcium hardness - CH is 1000 unless you have large amounts of scale all around your pool. Do you?

Test Kit Directions
 
FC of 4.5 ppm. For your CYA of 40 (round up) that is OK. Follow the FC/CYA Levels

Read the CH test process in the link I posted. Test should start at red/pink and end at a blue color.
 
ok, from your direction,, the CH test reads 350

and from reading poolmath hopefully correctly, i need to add Muriatic acid and areate the water to lower the TA, then need to lower the CH via replacing some of the water?
 
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Poolmath provides suggested target values based on your pool type. But remember, the Recommended Levels are ranges. Yes, your TA is elevated, but TA only really effects scaling tendency in primarily plaster pools. You have a vinyl pool. So just keep your pH in the 7's and TA will manage itself. Do test the TA level each time you need to add acid to lower your pH from 8 to 7.4 or so. Poolmath needs the current TA level in the pool water to provide how much acid to add to lower the pH.

Your CH is fine. No need to mess with it. So no need to replace any water.

In your pool type, the most important items to manage are FC, pH, and CYA.
 
so to get rid of this cloudy water what would you recommend,,?
Also been running that pool vac every day, and running the pump 8 hours every evening..
not very impressed with the vac at the moment,,also have the hayward skimmer here, just need to install it over the weekend.
 

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Did the FAS-DPD test again this morning.. Fc was 11.5, Cc 0.5 ,added into pool math and added what it recommended.. thats correct?
Also the pump needs to be running round the clock while this is done?
 
Did the FAS-DPD test again this morning.. Fc was 11.5, Cc 0.5 ,added into pool math and added what it recommended.. thats correct?
Also the pump needs to be running round the clock while this is done?
Great. Correct on raising your FC back to SLAM level. In a few hours, do it again. Brush the pool today. Go swimming.

It is best to leave the pump running if you can. That filters out the dead algae and pushes the chlorinated water around.
 
Did the FAS-DPD test again this morning.. Fc was 11.5, Cc 0.5 ,added into pool math and added what it recommended.. thats correct?
Also the pump needs to be running round the clock while this is done?
If your CYA is 40, then you want to get your FC to 16 and keep it there. If you can, check the chlorine level every 2 hours, and add more chlorine to get back the 16. Doing this every 2 hours speeds the process. Keep your pump on. Brush and scrub everything. If you have stairs, take them out and scrub. Try to get a 10:1 chlorine solution INTO THE INSIDE of the stairs if they are hollow.
 
ok so just did another test. Fc 17 and Cc 0.5
Great! Don’t need to test CC, until pool is clear and you pass OCLT. Scrub scrub! Test and add if necessary in two hours! Just add enough to get to slam level, more will not help and can damage liners. You can swim at 16 and below! You go!
 

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