Eyeball seat removal tool hack that works great

Fuldo

0
Silver Supporter
Nov 23, 2017
235
Port Orange, FL
I had an eyeball seat that needed to be backed-out but it was badly stuck, I think it's a Hayward. I first tried the Hayward SP1419T seat removal tool, it was useless. Just not strong and rigid enough even when a wrench is clamped onto it. I briefly checked this site and the internet and found little to help me except for some professional tools that are metal with a Tee handle that run big money. I measured-up the plastic Hayward tool and looked around my shop for something I could jury-rig and eureka, there it was.

Solution:
The Stanley 55-515 Wonder Bar (flat pry bar 1-3/4 x 12-3/4) has a short end that's a little wider than what the tool needs to be and the thickness is exactly what's needed. About 1/16 inch needed to be ground-off from the flair on both sides of the short end so the width was 1.490 inches, the same as the Hayward tool. The thickness is already tapered and measures the same 0.180 inch as the Hayward tool about an inch back. It engages the seat slots perfectly and actually fits better than the factory tool because the tool is inserted until the taper fills the slots. The short end of the bar can now be slid into the slots until it bottoms and the 12-3/4 inch long handle gives plenty of leverage to remove the most stubborn seats. The best part is that it cost me nothing and the pry bar can still be used as it was. These bars can be found for about $10 but this is a very common bar and many people probably already have one. Some similar bars could probably also be used but they might not fit as well.

With any luck this will help to salvage some fittings and save time and money for some pool owners.
 

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Skippy usually says everything can be fixed with either a wire coat hanger or duct tape. :geek:

Lemme add that lil wonder bar to the list. :goodjob:

Thanks for sharing. It will be helpful to someone here, I'm sure!

Maddie :flower:
 
Anyone have any good ideas for a recessed eyeball that has a threaded retaining ring holding it back. The pipe has an inside thread and the ring that holds the eyeball in place is threaded to match the inside diameter of the pipe (not sure what make the eyeballs are). The opening of the eyeball protrudes further out than the retaining ring and so the only way to engage the two notches on the ring is to use two flathead screwdrivers OR maybe a pair of needle nose pliers to span the gap but not get hung up on the eyeball. I can try to take a picture later.
 
Anyone have any good ideas for a recessed eyeball that has a threaded retaining ring holding it back. The pipe has an inside thread and the ring that holds the eyeball in place is threaded to match the inside diameter of the pipe (not sure what make the eyeballs are). The opening of the eyeball protrudes further out than the retaining ring and so the only way to engage the two notches on the ring is to use two flathead screwdrivers OR maybe a pair of needle nose pliers to span the gap but not get hung up on the eyeball. I can try to take a picture later.

Matt,

Does it look like this?.... http://www.poolfittings.com/flush-mount-return-fittings/


Jim R.
 
Matt,

Just as you suggested above, I used a pair of needle-nose plies.

These were put in after a re-plaster.. Had I known I would have asked for something else..

Thanks,

Jim R.

Ok. Just wanting to make sure I wasn’t missing something obvious.
 

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I’ve been wanting to change eyeball opening sizes. The return by my entry steps really should have a smaller opening as it has the return closet to the pump. Because all of the openings are the same diameter, that return has stronger flow than the furthest one out in the deep end wall. It would be nice to better balance the flow.
 
I’ve been wanting to change eyeball opening sizes. The return by my entry steps really should have a smaller opening as it has the return closet to the pump. Because all of the openings are the same diameter, that return has stronger flow than the furthest one out in the deep end wall. It would be nice to better balance the flow.

Matt,

After the re-plaster, I did not like the size of the eyeballs they installed, and the plaster company give me smaller ones... So the eyeball part does come in various sizes..

Jim R.
 
Matt,

After the re-plaster, I did not like the size of the eyeballs they installed, and the plaster company give me smaller ones... So the eyeball part does come in various sizes..

Jim R.

Haven’t found any yet but need to search further. I just don’t want to have to buy a bag of 50 of each size ;)
 
504f86810e7a990b3b591a8b1df2b065.jpg



Mcguyver wrench for recessed nozzles...

(Not fun when the needle nose fold female wall threads)
 
I had an eyeball seat that needed to be backed-out but it was badly stuck, I think it's a Hayward. I first tried the Hayward SP1419T seat removal tool, it was useless. Just not strong and rigid enough even when a wrench is clamped onto it. I briefly checked this site and the internet and found little to help me except for some professional tools that are metal with a Tee handle that run big money. I measured-up the plastic Hayward tool and looked around my shop for something I could jury-rig and eureka, there it was.

Solution:
The Stanley 55-515 Wonder Bar (flat pry bar 1-3/4 x 12-3/4) has a short end that's a little wider than what the tool needs to be and the thickness is exactly what's needed. About 1/16 inch needed to be ground-off from the flair on both sides of the short end so the width was 1.490 inches, the same as the Hayward tool. The thickness is already tapered and measures the same 0.180 inch as the Hayward tool about an inch back. It engages the seat slots perfectly and actually fits better than the factory tool because the tool is inserted until the taper fills the slots. The short end of the bar can now be slid into the slots until it bottoms and the 12-3/4 inch long handle gives plenty of leverage to remove the most stubborn seats. The best part is that it cost me nothing and the pry bar can still be used as it was. These bars can be found for about $10 but this is a very common bar and many people probably already have one. Some similar bars could probably also be used but they might not fit as well.

With any luck this will help to salvage some fittings and save time and money for some pool owners.

Large metal "soup" spoon works. The tapered edges fit right in. Just need to clamp down on the spoon with a wrench or pliers.
 
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