experience with TFP advice and SW conversion

[gcip]

I want to share my experience this summer with the forum. As background, I have had my pool for almost 30 years, and spent most summers chasing algae from late July until pool closing. I thought it was normal, if a pain in the neck.
This year I bought a salt water generator (Circupool), joined this forum, downloaded Pool Math app, bought a good test kit. I learned a lot about my pool chemistry, but one of the best pieces of advice from one of our members was: "don't chase numbers for the sake of hitting a recommended value. Look at your water"
I have had absolutely no issues with algae. My water is crystal clear, haven't had to backwash but one time. all I do is add a gallon of shock every now and then and occasional dry acid to reduce pH.
After researching here, I bought a Betta surface skimmer. Absolute game changer! keeps my skimmers clean, way less junk gets to the bottom, just a great addition. I highly recommend it (I bought the rechargeable SE, but it never actually needs charging).
Finally, a word about test numbers. My CYA runs high (around 110), my phosphates are very high and because of the CYA I usually have around 2-3ppm free chlorine. Combined chlorine 0-0.2. While I was tempted to drain half my pool to reduce CYA and play with phosphate removers etc, I decided to just let my water tell me if I have a problem. Maybe I'll deal with the CYA and phosphates at the end of my season (October), but I have a great pool and don't want to mess it up.
for those thinking about SWG, don't hesitate. My family loves the water, no eye discomfort, no chlorine smell. Because my free chlorine is very constant, my maintenance time is much lowerI wish I had done it years ago!
Thank you members for a terrific resource!

 

[Donldson]

but one of the best pieces of advice from one of our members was: "don't chase numbers for the sake of hitting a recommended value. Look at your water"

That advice does not translate to chlorine. You are waaaay below the minimum for your elevated CYA level. You should be running your FC closer to 10 ppm if your CYA is actually 110.

 

[PoolStored]

Congrats.

When your CYA >= 90, do the diluted test here:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

I would also increase your FC. I would raise it to 12-13 if your CYA is in fact 110. Min for you is 9FC.

At 2-3 FC, you risk bacterial infections...I'm also surprised you haven't had algae.



Follow the recommendations here...Link-->FC/CYA Levels



I'm glad you found value. You might consider becoming a supporter...

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

and occasional dry acid to reduce pH.

Use muriatic acid. The sulphates added with dry acid will cause issues with your SWG.

Lifted from the wiki :

Dry acid is sodium bisulfate. After dissociation of the acid salt, it leaves behind the sulfate ion.

Problems sulfates can cause include:

• Sulfates can damage concrete & plaster
• Excess sulfates in water increases the likelihood of corrosion on metal parts
• Excess sulfates in splash out water leads to degradation of any concrete surfaces
• Sulfates degrade the coatings on SWG plates
• At high enough concentrations, sulfates can react with calcium to form spindly, needle-like crystals of calcium sulfate (gypsum)
• While sulfates in vinyl pools is typically not as problematic as in plaster pools, scaling of gypsum crystals can increase the risk of liner puncture.[10]

 

[pjt]

all I do is add a gallon of shock every now and then

If you maintain your FC/CYA ratio, you'll never need to routinely shock your pool. You have a SWCG to handle your daily chlorination.

My CYA runs high (around 110)

Why? What are you adding that elevated your CYA so high?

my phosphates are very high

Under normal circumstances, your phosphate level doesn't matter.

I decided to just let my water tell me if I have a problem.

Use your test kit to detect problems and proactively solve them. By the time your pool water visually goes bad, you've already lost the battle.

 

[gcip]

Thanks all. To answer

Why? What are you adding that elevated your CYA so high?

Not sure. I just started testing myself this summer. Pool store measured 80 at beginning of the season. They had me add 25lbs of TriChlor, which according to PoolMath would add 59 points to my CYA. I measured 130ish the first time I used my test kit, so I think it was the TriChlor.

would also increase your FC. I would raise it to 12-13 if your CYA is in fact 110. Min for you is 9FC.

At 2-3 FC, you risk bacterial infections...I'm also surprised you haven't had algae.

I was planning to drain half the water out to reduce CYA, but didn't want to interrupt the swimming this summer. I have been unable to get the FC over 2-3 (which is why is tried using the liquid shock, 12.5%). I get the algae question, it's the main reason I haven't drained yet- looking for even the slightest bit of algae, but fortunately nothing.
FWIW I am running my SWG about 16hrs a day at 75%. Pool Math indicates that 14.5 hours should get FC to 9. Which it does not. I assume the app takes CYA into account?

 

[PoolStored]

it's the main reason I haven't drained yet- looking for even the slightest bit of algae, but fortunately nothing.

Do this test tonight...Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
It may be you have algae, but cannot see it.

FWIW I am running my SWG about 16hrs a day at 75%. Pool Math indicates that 14.5 hours should get FC to 9. Which it does not. I assume the app takes CYA into account?

CYA doesn't affect production. Again, likely algae, even if you can't see it. Do the OCLT.

 

[Newdude]

FWIW I am running my SWG about 16hrs a day at 75%. Pool Math indicates that 14.5 hours should get FC to 9. Which it does not. I assume the app takes CYA into account?

Take circupools stated production with a grain of salt as they claim 50% more production and 50% more lifespan, but at their claims you are adding 6.6 FC with your runtime.

Poolmath doesn't know your daily loss from UV or loss to algae, which both disminish what you produce. Algae is microscopic and by the time you can see it, it's way too late.

An Overnight Chlorine Loss Test lets you know if there is algae consuming the FC you are producing.

 

[gcipolletti]

Thanks guys. I’ll give this a whirl. Haven’t tried the OCL yet because sunrise is 6AM here

 

[Newdude]

Would you like to do one, or several ? If you let an algae outbreak get the upper hand, you'll be doing several OCLTs to pass your inevitable slam.

One thing I've learned here is that the Rookies sit around and make excuses why they don't need to OCLT (even when they're valid excuses ) and the pros find a way to get it done.

The longer you go without slamming when needed makes it worse, no matter how bad it would have been. Bite that bullet and save future you whether it's tomorrow you or two weeks from now you.

With any luck you pass and that peace of mind is priceless.

 

[gcipolletti]

I’m curious about some results. When I first got my Taylor kit, June 19:
FC 1.0. PH 7.2. TA 100. CH 200. CYA 110. Temp 83 salt 3400
July 15:
FC 1.4. PH 7.6. TA 110. CYA 110
Aug 15:
FC 2.2. Ph 8.0. TA 90 (added dry acid 35 oz, lowered ph to 7.8)
September 12:
FC 6.8. PH 8.0. Ta 50. CYA 50. Salt 2600
Today:
FC 12. Ph 8.0. TA 90. CYA 60. CH 180. Salt 2600. Temp 74

I have literally done nothing else except keep the SWG at 70% about 16 hours a day. I also aerated the pool for a month.

Why did the CYA go down? And where does the salt go? I can only assume that whatever was consuming my FC finally died out, resulting in the FC moving to where I want it. I’m very glad I didn’t drain the pool to reduce the CYA level.

 

[dereksanders]

Salt will go down with excessive splash out and subsequent refills. Same with CYA although CYA does go down on its own given enough time.