electrical redo

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mrjetson707

Well-known member
Sep 7, 2021
120
Martinez, California
Pool Size
11000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
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this is my current state of electrical. I just bought the house and I'm a new pool owner. I'm a plumber by trade but electrical isn't my strong suit. My neighbor is an electrician and said if I buy all the stuff he'll help me wire it. So my question is: What is a good affordable sub panel to put here? Also after I get this electric set up, I'm going to get a pentair intelliflo 3hp vs pump. currently I have a single speed 1 hp pump. do I need to change anything with my breakers? also do I need the timer anymore since the new pump with have its own timer? any advice on total electrical build is appreciated. I'm ripping all of this out and basically starting from scratch
 
You have just a pool light and a pump. You will not need the timer if you go with the IntelliFlo VS pump. You will need a new subpanel with GFCI breakers for both the pump and light. The pump will be 230V whereas the light will be 120V which you currently have now.
A bigger step would be to go to a full automation system to have control via your phone. Obviously there is a cost increase for those features. Maybe someone is selling one that they have after an upgrade.

How do you clean the pool. Do you have a manual vacuum cleaner? Do you think you may put in a robot? If so, you will also need a GFCI plug for 120V.
You currently use Liquid Chlorine. If you think you may go with a SWCG, then you need to plan for that to connect to the same pump breaker.
post a picture of your complete equipment pad and your pool as well. That helps to allow others to see your current set up and consider other options.
 
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I'm gonna replace everything. I plan on getting solar heating. larger filter and new pump. I don't care about full automation. Im not thinking of going SWCG at this time.. do you have sub panel recommendations? I started digging up the conduit so I can replace with CPVC
 
I would run at least 40 amps into the subpanel to give you room to add additional devices in the future. I don't know what the existing subpanel amps feed is.

If you are planning to get an IntelliFlo Vs pump then plan to use one of these GFCI CB's. Harmonics from the variable frequency drive can cause false GFCI trips. Pentair PA220GF is a 20A 240V GFCI breaker that GFCI trips at 6ma. The PA220GF is supposed to be less sensitive to false GCFI trips from VS pumps.

The PA220GF is a relabeled Siemens CB (QF220AP). Siemens added additional shielding to help resist false trips. Some say Pentair may have additional quality control and selects breakers less susceptible to false GFCI trips.

Your pool lights do not look like they are on a GFCI CB, which they should have.

The NEC requires at least one 15A or 20A, 125V GFCI receptacle located not less than 6 ft and not more than 20 ft from the inside wall of a permanently installed pool.

Which CB is your heater powered from?
 
ajw22 said:
I would run at least 40 amps into the subpanel to give you room to add additional devices in the future. I don't know what the existing subpanel amps feed is.

If you are planning to get an IntelliFlo Vs pump then plan to use one of these GFCI CB's. Harmonics from the variable frequency drive can cause false GFCI trips. Pentair PA220GF is a 20A 240V GFCI breaker that GFCI trips at 6ma. The PA220GF is supposed to be less sensitive to false GCFI trips from VS pumps.

The PA220GF is a relabeled Siemens CB (QF220AP). Siemens added additional shielding to help resist false trips. Some say Pentair may have additional quality control and selects breakers less susceptible to false GFCI trips.

Your pool lights do not look like they are on a GFCI CB, which they should have.

The NEC requires at least one 15A or 20A, 125V GFCI receptacle located not less than 6 ft and not more than 20 ft from the inside wall of a permanently installed pool.

Which CB is your heater powered from?
Click to expand...
my sub panel is running from 2 30amp circuits off my main. the electrical is all shoddy so idk how it's wired until I take it all apart. I was told the heater hasn't worked in 10 years so that thing is going away
 
mrjetson707 said:
I was told the heater hasn't worked in 10 years so that thing is going away
Click to expand...

If you ever want to put in a heater you should plan for the electrical requirement. Especially if may get a heat pump.
 
mrjetson707 said:
View attachment 377245View attachment 377244
I'm gonna replace everything. I plan on getting solar heating. larger filter and new pump. I don't care about full automation. Im not thinking of going SWCG at this time.. do you have sub panel recommendations? I started digging up the conduit so I can replace with CPVC
Click to expand...

You should consider automation since it will include the outdoor load center for all of your circuits and electrical to go into.
 
If you want diy automation you can do one of these. I installed one a couple of weeks ago for a friend with pool/spa combo. He had an Intermatic Dual Timer box with 8 breakers as a load center. Then we just installed an automation box next to it. It can do an unlimited number of schedules and it can control whatever you hook to it including pumps, heaters, chlorinators, chemistry controllers, and valves. The best part is you can operate it from your phone, home automation system, watch, or ipad.

github.com

DIY Standalone Nixie Pool Controller

An application to control pool equipment from various manufacturers. - tagyoureit/nodejs-poolController
github.com github.com
1633991004345.png
 

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