Electrical Changes at Pad - Thoughts

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Okay TFP Spark-Masters, sanity check. The recent bleach shortage has me FINALLY contemplating investing in an SWG. I’m out in the country and don’t have unique city code issues, but I always want to meet general NEC good-practice requirements. My pool is about 30’ away from the pad, so issues there. I’m concerned with the equipment pad and locations of outlets/timers to filter/pump/ground.

Current situation:
  • I currently have one outdoor weather-proof outlet near the equipment pad (120V) that powers my pump and LED light transformer. Bottom of the outlet is 20 inches from the ground (see image below).
  • Currently running a second outlet to that area. For now it will be 120V dedicated to my pump, which will free-up a space on the original outlet for the SWG. NOTE - In the future I may convert that new 120V outlet to 240V if required for a new motor.
  • Distance from the sub-panel to the back of the shed (equip pad) is about 50 feet.
  • My pump runs 24/7 (on low) for country dust and surface junk. I plan on using an Intermatic timer to support the SWG run times.
So here are my questions:
  • Is there any reason to be concerned with the location (either height from ground or distance from the filter) of the current 120V outlet, or even the new 2nd outlet I’m working on? No flooding, but occasional rain exposure at the exposed side of the lean-to cover with windy rain.
  • For the new/second outlet, I plan on running 12/2 wires (Romex or strands) from a 20 amp GFCI through metal conduit inside my shed and exiting outside to the equipment pad area. Is there any reason to consider 12/3? Or even to consider 30 amp 10/2 or 10/3? In the future, when I get a new 2-speed or VSP, I can’t imagine needing more than 20 amps or a 3rd leg, but wanted to check.
Equip Pad.jpg
Now’s the time for me to make changes. I’m leaning towards leaving the original outlet low where it is at the lower right corner and simply dropping my new (2nd) outlet low and to the left behind the pump at a similar height as the original outlet. Or (uh oh) use this time with the new outlet install to relocate everything on the wall somewhere else (higher, centered, etc). Under the lean-to is pretty-much dry. I only encounter a little water when I open-up my filter for cleaning (spillage) or to purge air (minor spraying). Significant outlet location changes could mean longer whips/cords or other connection to get to ground/equipment level. The OCD in me is kicking-in and I don’t want to make this any harder than it needs to be. My gut tells me to drop the new outlet behind the pump and walk away, but I am open to ideas before I cut new holes in the shed wall. GO!
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
16,165
Northern NJ
Pat, a few questions...

- where are your CBs?
- where is your GFCI protection, if any? In the outlets or CBs or none?
- what CBs feed what circuits at what amps?
- why do you want to plug in your pump and SWG instead of hard wiring it? If you are going to wire a new outlet in then run the wires right to the devices.
- if you want your pump running on 240V then why not do it now?
- running 12/3 let's you support a 240V circuit in the future. With 12/2 you will need to pull new wires.
- no pump will need more then 240V 20A. Why do you think you will need a 30A drop?
- all your equipment properly bonded and grounded?
 
Last edited:

Jimrahbe

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
Jul 7, 2014
16,989
Bedford, TX
Pat,

I can't see any problems with your plan.. As long as you have a single speed, or 2-speed pump, then you can just run the salt cell off the same power source as the pump, no separate timer is needed for the SWCG..

As you already know.. I think people that do not have a saltwater pool have serious mental issues... :mrgreen:

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

Texas Splash

Mod Squad
TFP Expert
LifeTime Supporter
As you already know.. I think people that do not have a saltwater pool have serious mental issues.
Ha ha! Yes Jim, I know that for you it's salt-water or go home. I also had a suspicion you would be one to keep me grounded, keep it simple, and not make the project any more difficult than it needs to be. Thanks! :salut:
 

RDspaguy

In The Industry
Mar 21, 2020
594
Cabool, Mo
running 12/3 let's you support a 240V circuit in the future. With 12/2 you will need to pull new wires.
If he runs a dedicated 240v circuit he will not need to have a neutral, so can do it with 12/2. It would be wise to plan for future changes, however, so having that extra wire is not a bad thing. Same thought applies to 10 gauge wire. Nothing really needs that power now, but in 10 years you might need someplace to charge your iRobot pool guy.
 
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jimmythegreek

TFP Expert
Bronze Supporter
In The Industry
Aug 10, 2017
2,161
Morris Cnty NJ
Just run 3 seperate thxn 12 guage wires and a ground in conduit. Not supposed to run romex in conduit. Leave the extra wire for an extra circuit in future and wire in a hot nuetral and ground for 110v. If you got a 220 pump in future you would convert your nuetral to a hot there is no nuetral in 220 setup. Extra wire will be there still for a circuit.
You could also ditch it all and install a small load center in the shed and just add from there making it fool proof for future