My easytouch system keeps loosing communication with the intelliflo and the intellichlor. Normally this is just an inconvenience but with the continuing freezing temperatures it’s a potential disaster. The pump shuts down when it looses communication. This happens about every two weeks. I turn all power off and reboot the system twice (once first work) and we’re back in business. Any ideas??
Easytouch control system and intellifloXF pump keep loosing communication
- Thread starter sadpoolguy
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,570
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Sounds like a RS485 wiring or chip issue. Being random will make it difficult to resolve. Obviously check wiring.
Sad,
I would assume the idiot that wired your IntelliFlo wired the pump's AC power through the Pump/Fliter relay.
The IntelliFlo should get constant AC power..
As a quick test, just put your system into the Service mode and then look at the pump's display. It should have a display.. If blank, then your pump is not wired correctly.
Thanks,
Jim R.
I would assume the idiot that wired your IntelliFlo wired the pump's AC power through the Pump/Fliter relay.
The IntelliFlo should get constant AC power..
As a quick test, just put your system into the Service mode and then look at the pump's display. It should have a display.. If blank, then your pump is not wired correctly.
Thanks,
Jim R.
Service mode display
Normal mode pump display
Breaker labels I assume they are correct so it should have continuous power
Normal mode pump displayBreaker labels I assume they are correct so it should have continuous powerThe Superflo label was for the first VST. Sorry. They are incorrect. It should say intelliflo as it was replaced. Dang it.
Jim -
I checked all connections. They are tight. This may be a chip issue.
Sad,
When in AUTO, the pump's display will say "Display not active", just like in your pic. But, when in the Servce mode, the pump should revert to a standalone mode and show RPM plus other pump details. It takes about 30 seconds for this to happen.
That said, the fact that the pump had any display when in the Service mode proves that your pump is wired correctly. When wired wrong, the display will be blank in the Service mode.
Thanks,
Jim R.
When in AUTO, the pump's display will say "Display not active", just like in your pic. But, when in the Servce mode, the pump should revert to a standalone mode and show RPM plus other pump details. It takes about 30 seconds for this to happen.
That said, the fact that the pump had any display when in the Service mode proves that your pump is wired correctly. When wired wrong, the display will be blank in the Service mode.
Thanks,
Jim R.
As always, Thanks Jim! I didn't wait 5 seconds to take the pic after I put it in Service Mode. That would explain why it looks the same. I'll call Pentair Monday and see if they will ship me a replacement cable. The PB didn't trim the cable, so there is 20' or so in the side of the panel. I may try and trim that first to see if it's getting any electrical interference. Who knows. Is there a way to set up the Easytouch to email when alarms go off? I'm worried about it failing after midnight on a 20 degree night. Then again, who checks their email at 2:00 am?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,570
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
- May 3, 2014
- 58,570
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Looks like the J2? Com port is bad and needs to be replaced. Bad news is it’s on national back order.
Hey just my 2 cents... I've never seen a bad comm chip that would work intermittently. I've seen them where they could transmit but not receive and vice-versa, but never one that "sometimes" wouldn't work.
Your situation smells more like interference from another device or a wiring issue - maybe not the cable but possibly the contacts where the pump cable connects to the drive, or the screw terminals on the pop-on terminal blocks (or the pins that the block connects to) at J20. You said it happens on cold nights... I'm wondering if condensation could be a factor?
If your screenlogic can control aux circuits on the outdoor board, then your outdoor board's comms are good. You've got a pump, screenlogic and salt cell that each connect to the comm port - and any one of those could be causing the problem - so I'd remove everything except the pump and see if it fails after a couple of weeks... you likely won't need the salt cell for a little while yet anyway
Your situation smells more like interference from another device or a wiring issue - maybe not the cable but possibly the contacts where the pump cable connects to the drive, or the screw terminals on the pop-on terminal blocks (or the pins that the block connects to) at J20. You said it happens on cold nights... I'm wondering if condensation could be a factor?
If your screenlogic can control aux circuits on the outdoor board, then your outdoor board's comms are good. You've got a pump, screenlogic and salt cell that each connect to the comm port - and any one of those could be causing the problem - so I'd remove everything except the pump and see if it fails after a couple of weeks... you likely won't need the salt cell for a little while yet anyway
Yes, shorten that communication cable, make sure it does not run through or too near the high-voltage area, and that the connections at the 485 terminal are good, tight, and no spare strands of the yellow and green cable are intermittently touching. I've seen both those issues.