Just ran into this problem today on the Hayward Ecostar SP3200DR pump. Tried a couple of suggestions, turning the power off, making sure the motor spins, screws are tight, none of them worked. Any other suggestions or do I need a new pump?
Drive Error, pump has stalled
- Thread starter aztony
- Start date
Tony,
Seems like we have seen that failure for the EcoStar several times in the past couple of years.. The control head dies. You can replace the control head but it is almost the same price as the whole pump. There are plenty of threads about it, but not solutions that I have seen.. Ask @tstex..
Sorry,
Jim R.
Seems like we have seen that failure for the EcoStar several times in the past couple of years.. The control head dies. You can replace the control head but it is almost the same price as the whole pump. There are plenty of threads about it, but not solutions that I have seen.. Ask @tstex..
Sorry,
Jim R.
Tony,
How old is your ecostar? if it was installed while you lived at house, did a "pool pro" do it or other?
Have you had this problem before or anything else like it?
Do you have a surge protector?
Let's start w these questions - tstex
How old is your ecostar? if it was installed while you lived at house, did a "pool pro" do it or other?
Have you had this problem before or anything else like it?
Do you have a surge protector?
Let's start w these questions - tstex
The pump itself is from 2011 when I had the pool installed. The digital pad was replaced in 2014 for the same problem but it was under warranty at that time. A surge protector, no, but it is on a circuit breaker right next to the pump plus on one in the main box. Had the Hayward tech come out today and since it's no longer under warranty and the pump itself is 8 years old, he recommended buying the whole pump instead of just going with the pad itself. Cost is a little of $1k with tax and install. Having it done tomorrow.
Tony
Eight yrs for an EcoStar is A RECORD. I've never heard of that. You are a record holder.
whatever you did (settings, configuration of breakers, etc), I'd do the same.
What type, make & model breaker was originally installed? Is it the same type now?
Eight yrs for an EcoStar is A RECORD. I've never heard of that. You are a record holder.
whatever you did (settings, configuration of breakers, etc), I'd do the same.
What type, make & model breaker was originally installed? Is it the same type now?
I guess it's nice to hear my EcoStar set a record, the pump anyway. Do I get a trophy? 
The settings have been the same since the tech replaced the digital pad back in 2014. I have no idea about the breaker and can't tell since it's all enclosed. Yes, it is the original breaker.
The settings have been the same since the tech replaced the digital pad back in 2014. I have no idea about the breaker and can't tell since it's all enclosed. Yes, it is the original breaker.
When you get s chance (and are comfortable w it) I'd be great to know what type of breaker (GFCI) or not for your pump. It could help a lot of people w this pump if they emulated your set up. Lots of variables to consider, but breaker is s good start
My new Hayward TriStar VSP.
So about the GFCI, what is it exactly that you want to know? The GFCI is the outlet or circuit breaker? I'm not very electrically inclined, so pictures would help.
Question for anyone with an SWP in a climate like AZ. What speeds do you run your pump and for how long? The tech has mine set to go on at 9 PM - 12 AM at 3450rpm. Then from 1 AM to 5 AM at a lower RPM. The old pump they had it run at the lower RPM first from 9 PM - 3 AM, then from 3 AM - 5:30 AM at the higher RPM. I also noticed the pump takes 5 minutes to prime up when the old pump took only 2 minutes.
So about the GFCI, what is it exactly that you want to know? The GFCI is the outlet or circuit breaker? I'm not very electrically inclined, so pictures would help.
Question for anyone with an SWP in a climate like AZ. What speeds do you run your pump and for how long? The tech has mine set to go on at 9 PM - 12 AM at 3450rpm. Then from 1 AM to 5 AM at a lower RPM. The old pump they had it run at the lower RPM first from 9 PM - 3 AM, then from 3 AM - 5:30 AM at the higher RPM. I also noticed the pump takes 5 minutes to prime up when the old pump took only 2 minutes.
Tony / tstex, my first ecostar died with this same error (drive error) right at the 4 year anniversary, no warranty. I had a no name breaker (not a gfci) and no surge protection. When I installed the second one a year ago, I put in a Samsung Siemens 20amp, gfci breaker as recommended by many on this board, but still no square D surge protector.
Tony, unless you have an in-floor cleaning system(your signature doesn’t indicate that), most people on this board will tell you to run at the minimum speed to get your chlorinator to turn on...no need to run your pump faster than that. Even with my IFCS, I almost never run my pump at full speed...in the ecostar settings you can set the max rpm which I have at 80% max.
That setting also regulates the priming speed. If you don’t have an issue with priming your pump, I would set the max rpm lower & set the prime time to the minimum the ecostar allows, I think mine is 1 minute.
Tony, unless you have an in-floor cleaning system(your signature doesn’t indicate that), most people on this board will tell you to run at the minimum speed to get your chlorinator to turn on...no need to run your pump faster than that. Even with my IFCS, I almost never run my pump at full speed...in the ecostar settings you can set the max rpm which I have at 80% max.
That setting also regulates the priming speed. If you don’t have an issue with priming your pump, I would set the max rpm lower & set the prime time to the minimum the ecostar allows, I think mine is 1 minute.
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Tony, where your pump RPM speed is at 3450, that's also the prime speed so there is not really a pump priming time for you, except at the lower RPM times.My new Hayward TriStar VSP.
So about the GFCI, what is it exactly that you want to know? The GFCI is the outlet or circuit breaker? I'm not very electrically inclined, so pictures would help.
Question for anyone with an SWP in a climate like AZ. What speeds do you run your pump and for how long? The tech has mine set to go on at 9 PM - 12 AM at 3450rpm. Then from 1 AM to 5 AM at a lower RPM. The old pump they had it run at the lower RPM first from 9 PM - 3 AM, then from 3 AM - 5:30 AM at the higher RPM. I also noticed the pump takes 5 minutes to prime up when the old pump took only 2 minutes.
View attachment 95050
As noted, I would set your prime time to 1 min, then a max RPM of 3100 for priming. As to you max speed setting, I would not exceed 2500rpm...low setting I would go 1050 rpm's...running that pump at 3450 for 3 hrs is not a good idea...never run your pump above 75-80%, esp if it's in the heat of the day...good luck. tstex
you should only need around 3000 to prime and 1-2 min max. as said full speed isnt good, with a SWG you dont need it. your signature says you dont have infloor cleaning, just run the pump at 1200ish all the time, should be enough to satisfy the flow switch for the SWG.
Thanks for the responses and suggestions. I do not have an in-floor cleaning system. I don't see any settings for priming the pump. There are settings for different run times. I set it to run at 1200 rpm from 9:30 PM - 5:00 AM. What I'm getting from the suggestions is that there's no reason to run the pump at a higher setting for the duration of the run time, just keep it at a low setting, except for the Priming. Is that correct? Does it need to run that long is my other question or is something like 4 -5 hours more than enough?
As for the GFCI, I'm still not sure what GFCI you mean or what it should look like. Is it on the main electrical box for the house or a separate box for the pool? Here's a pic of what I have. I did a search for the Samsung 20 amp nothing comes up. There are GE and other brands.
As for the GFCI, I'm still not sure what GFCI you mean or what it should look like. Is it on the main electrical box for the house or a separate box for the pool? Here's a pic of what I have. I did a search for the Samsung 20 amp nothing comes up. There are GE and other brands.
- May 3, 2014
- 58,260
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
The circuit breaker would be a Siemens. Not Samsung. I bet the Circuit breakers are in the electrical box to the right of the timer you show in the picture.
You do not need the timer for your pump. I hope you are not controlling the pump with that timer. You should be controlling your SWCG with that timer, however.
You do not need the timer for your pump. I hope you are not controlling the pump with that timer. You should be controlling your SWCG with that timer, however.
No, the timer is for the SWG.
Thanks for clarifying the GFCI is a Siemens. I see they run around $50. What's the reason they are recommended? Do they provide better protection against surges? Do you think that's why the other pump had the error?
Thanks for clarifying the GFCI is a Siemens. I see they run around $50. What's the reason they are recommended? Do they provide better protection against surges? Do you think that's why the other pump had the error?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,260
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Do a search in the forum for the Siemens circuit breaker. I am not an electrician but others have pointed out the advantage of them. I know the electrician that installed my equipment used them as they are recommended by Pentair.
Oops...my bad Siemens it is...
Tony, your pump is a different model than mine...but I believe my priming options / max speed options are under the configuration tab of the menus...maybe yours does not have that?
Also, I believe that tstex was inquiring about your installation because your pump lasted 8 years and thought you might have something special that others may benefit from knowing. It doesn’t sound like that’s the case. Most would probably recommend a square d surge protector for surges before replacing the breaker...the breaker is for safety/reliability, but if you already have a gfci breaker and haven’t had problems with it, you are probably ok. Also the Siemens breaker is usually more expensive than you stated, you might have looked at the single pole 120v version.
Tony, your pump is a different model than mine...but I believe my priming options / max speed options are under the configuration tab of the menus...maybe yours does not have that?
Also, I believe that tstex was inquiring about your installation because your pump lasted 8 years and thought you might have something special that others may benefit from knowing. It doesn’t sound like that’s the case. Most would probably recommend a square d surge protector for surges before replacing the breaker...the breaker is for safety/reliability, but if you already have a gfci breaker and haven’t had problems with it, you are probably ok. Also the Siemens breaker is usually more expensive than you stated, you might have looked at the single pole 120v version.
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I have the Tristar VS 900 Model SP3200VSP. I went through the menu settings and couldn't find anything for priming the pump. Just did a search online for the manual and found the setting.
Referring back to my previous question on the amount of time the pump should run, is 9:30 PM - 5:30 AM too long? I'm assuming it would be fine when the summer Arizona heat starts but right now we just hit 80.
Referring back to my previous question on the amount of time the pump should run, is 9:30 PM - 5:30 AM too long? I'm assuming it would be fine when the summer Arizona heat starts but right now we just hit 80.
I beleive when u change max speed that also limits the max speed when priming so just look for that setting and it will overlap into priming. You only need to run long enough to make your chlorine and or filter your water. I can get away with 3-4 hours run time if I boost my swg to 100 percent. All depends how your swg is setup and its output. And the demands of the pool will change with weather and season your testing will tell you what the pool needs
^^ what jimmy said with this caveat...aesthetics. I find my pool gets suspended/floating stuff in it here in Gilbert, AZ (pollens, grasses, ??). So, I run my pump about 8 hours a day at low speed to skim (make sure your wall returns are setup to swirl your pool for most skimming effectiveness) and to “filter” these suspended particles. Even though I avoid using on-peak electricity, I have made the decision to run my pump at low speed throughout the day this summer (tbd but probably up to 16 hours/day) to keep it looking it’s best during swim season. This aspect (aesthetics) will obviously vary from pool to pool...and is not based on “need”, but rather, owner preference.
^^agree with jonpcar, there are always decisions to be made, and his is a prime example of running pump more than your chemical balance of pool needs