I don't know if it's applicable but I've read that if one uses heat to unglue a Sched40 union that it should never be reused for any pressurized application. For what it's worth, the pressures in pool plumbing are likely nil compared with the max pressure rating of Sched40 in "real" pressurized applications.
For my project I went and bought a $65 PVC union reamer. OP might need a different size; I suspect that is not 2" PVC, so it might be cheaper. It paid for itself with a single project because I was able to reuse a check valve and a heater union. It'd pay for itself multiple times over being able to reuse a 3 way valve. It's a bit dirtier work than the heat gun, but it won't bulge out or stretch the plastic. Ready for glue immediately.
Clean Ream Extreme plastic pipe fitting reamers clean leftover cement residue from plastic fittings. Socket saver available in 7 sizes, fits ½” drill. Buy now.
www.reedmfgco.com
Citation needed? I went line-by-line thru my IC60 installation documents and I don't recall once seeing this. All it says is put it upstream of any tab chlorinator which definitely do need check valves due to creepy acidity. For my own sanity and to have a true bypass heater bypass, I've got one in and one new yet to install, but that's personal preference, not manufacturer guidelines as I understand them. It's possible there's some industry resource that says different, would you be willing to share it? The IC manual has already been posted in this thread, conspicuously absent any check valves.
Your assumption is correct drawing on the photo like that. You'd only need that bypass pipe at the bottom if your pump's max CFM was too much for the IC to handle, and DEFINITELY don't plumb it with no flow control... you'll never get any CFM across the salt cell at all with just a straight tube. I initially planned my install with a bypass and a ball valve just because it said so in the manual. Turns out I absolutely didn't need it, so it's good I returned all those parts. Here's my install with planning and progress photos:
Howdy! I've not done a ton of combing thru this forum, so forgive me if these have already been answered elsewhere. I need help and advice sizing and selecting SWG gear. Our PB doesn't recommend them, and they won't install or warranty anything I go out and buy on my own. So not a lot of...
www.troublefreepool.com
Having a check valve after and some kind of 3-way bypass in front of the heater is VERY valuable. For example, you might want to winterize the heater but leave the pool running. You might want to have your pool running but do maintenance or even replace the heater without taking the pump offline. If you're sneaky enough with it, you might be able to bypass the heater entirely, but still run water thru the chlorinator. Mine's a little different situation, but I started about the same place as you. Good on you for RTFM. Feel free to reach out via PM if you have other questions. I'm in a totally different boat because my PB did the work for the previous owner and has told me in no uncertain terms "no warranty transfers, period." So I did the install myself because it was cheaper and faster and I'll eat the warranty if need be. But I can see by just the subject of the post... there's been a loss of trust, and you're considering not bothering trying to convince an "expert" who knows less than you to do the right thing.
