Hooligan24

New member
Jun 1, 2022
4
New Jersey
We upgraded this year to an intex 16x32. We opted to have the ground leveled professionally since we historically have not been great at it. We started to fill the pool after they “leveled” and it was over 6 inches off. They can back and reveled….by building up sand. They moved the pool back before we saw their fix. Their next fix was to add a retaining wall. We filled it and hoped for the best and here we are. We are already fighting with the company for their mistakes but I want to know if we are totally screwed or if we can make it work at all.

How unsafe are the legs and pavers? Can they make it through a season?

The corner pieces in two sides are kinda locked in place and won’t float in and out like the other sides.
 

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Oh boy. That's not good. I try to be optimistic when I see some AGP installs with poles and bases a bit off, but those leg supports can't remain that way. The pavers are doing nothing at this point. They could go slip more into the ground and eventually collapse from the weight. Very unfortunate. :( My recommendation would be to re-set that pool and ensure the legs are stabilized properly on the pavers. Sorry.
 
You are going to want to use 4 inch thick blocks instead of 2 inch. They also need to be dug down to undisturbed earth. See another one that came up today
 
Whoa that doesn't look good. If they used sand to build it up, it won't work unfortunately. The sand needs to be removed and the actual ground leveled. It sounds like they used a retaining wall to try to keep the sand in place? They are professionals and they should know better in my opinion .
 
Yeah, I agree with Texas Splash above - start over. And you may not be happy or agree with my recommendations below or the cost estimates setting up and owning this size pool, but it's been very effective for me, and I just pulled this info from a bunch of other sources that I found when i was doing the setup many years ago.

Due to the water weight of this size pool and the sloshing that goes on when people are in it, you will be putting some crazy stress on part of your uneven/unleveled frame and could destroy it pretty quickly when being used. Doesn't sound like your professionals have ever setup a pool like this before, which can be a big issue.
  1. drain it (loss of about $400-600 for water and chemicals, depending on your area)
  2. disassemble legs
  3. fold and move liner.
Spend extra time (as much time as needed) fixing the ground and area where the frame and liner will sit because you don't want to mess with this again next year or clean up a big mess if the liner stretches and tears, or some of the frame legs bend and you have to redo anyways.
  1. get rid of the sand used as a filler (move it out of the way for now).
  2. Invest in a laser level like this one from Lowe's (~$500.00) so that you can verify each frame leg setup (easy to use, just watch some youtube videos on using a laser level), verify as you fill (that no leg is sinking) and verify each year for a pool of this size and weight. It's a lot, but very worth it and just part of the pool cost to keep the it durable and usable for many years to come.
  3. use dirt to fill or dig out and/or both. You cannot use sand to fill because it won't hold and washes out easily aggravating the frame level problem even more and it will do it quickly. I don't recommend using dirt to fill due to the weight of this pool (dig out if possible), but if you do, this guy shows his setup where he filled one side and dug out the other. You should not pick the lowest part of your yard to place this pool either. There should be some grade level below the pool frame for water to drain somewhere. If not, when it rains, it could start eroding dirt under your frame legs.
  4. I don't recommend using pavers for this size pool - I thought the instruction manual has pretty good measurements on where the legs will end up being once the pool is filled to help for placement, but those individual pavers will move around on that sand due to the weight of the pool, and many people have reported the pavers cracking due to the stress from the weight for this particular size pool.
  5. I recommend using 2"x12"x8' pressure treated boards to set the frame on. I followed this guy's setup and it has worked perfectly for 4 seasons now. You would need 12 of them x ~$36.00+tax, which will put you back about $450.00 or more for your area.
  6. If you want to have a VERY flat and VERY smooth bottom, I highly recommend that once the bottom is level with dirt, add some sand to fill in some low spots, and then like others have done, purchase 4'x8' insulation panels x16 to go under the liner. It will feel amazing on your feet and reduce wrinkling in the liner from the sand moving once water is in the pool (~$700.00), plus a couple rolls of gorilla tape to tape the seams together
  7. In addition, I added BalanceFrom 1/2" Thick Flooring Puzzle Exercise Mat with High Quality EVA Foam Interlocking Tiles, 6 Piece, 24 Sq Ft on top of the insulation panels (x22 packs), and it makes the pool pretty dang amazing. Also recommend putting this under an intex PureSpa hot tub if you get one (~$470).
  8. Recommend buying a resin shed to store your chemicals and supplies in away from your house/garage and close to the pool (~$1500 for wood to build base frame and for shed)
  9. For this pool, I use ruby sand media for the sand filter and replace annually. You'll need 2 bags, as it uses a full bag and about a 1/3 of the next one.
  10. Recommend using two intex surface skimmers (~$25 each) instead of just one. Use socks with the skimmers, which greatly reduces surface scum and the socks will indicate pretty quickly if you have an algae problem. Remember, you should just completely remove the skimmers when you have large groups of people swimming, or you can dislodge them with the waves, start sucking in air and air lock your pump and overheat it.
  11. Recommend the Intex Recreation Corp 28001E Intex Auto Pool Cleaner, 1 Pack, Grey, ($105.00) as this thing surprising keeps the bottom extremely clean vs you having to manually vacuum.
  12. These intex LED color changing magnetic lights ($120 each) that also include just regular white light are pretty dang good too. Need 2-3 to really light up the pool.
  13. This year, I'm using three tablet bobbers with four 3" tablets each, to keep the chlorine level slightly elevated to prevent algea from growing and it is working really well so far. I bought a salt water system when I bought the pool, but read how the salt water quickly rusted out this type pool frame legs very quickly within a season and the frame leg replacements are expensive as heck.

Good luck and let us know what you ended up doing with some pics and updates!
 
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Yeah, I agree with Texas Splash above - start over. And you may not be happy or agree with my recommendations below or the cost estimates setting up and owning this size pool, but it's been very effective for me, and I just pulled this info from a bunch of other sources that I found when i was doing the setup many years ago.

Due to the water weight of this size pool and the sloshing that goes on when people are in it, you will be putting some crazy stress on part of your uneven/unleveled frame and could destroy it pretty quickly when being used. Doesn't sound like your professionals have ever setup a pool like this before, which can be a big issue.
  1. drain it (loss of about $400-600 for water and chemicals, depending on your area)
  2. disassemble legs
  3. fold and move liner.
Spend extra time (as much time as needed) fixing the ground and area where the frame and liner will sit because you don't want to mess with this again next year or clean up a big mess if the liner stretches and tears, or some of the frame legs bend and you have to redo anyways.
  1. get rid of the sand used as a filler (move it out of the way for now).
  2. Invest in a laser level like this one from Lowe's (~$500.00) so that you can verify each frame leg setup (easy to use, just watch some youtube videos on using a laser level), verify as you fill (that no leg is sinking) and verify each year for a pool of this size and weight. It's a lot, but very worth it and just part of the pool cost to keep the it durable and usable for many years to come.
  3. use dirt to fill or dig out and/or both. You cannot use sand to fill because it won't hold and washes out easily aggravating the frame level problem even more and it will do it quickly. I don't recommend using dirt to fill due to the weight of this pool (dig out if possible), but if you do, this guy shows his setup where he filled one side and dug out the other. You should not pick the lowest part of your yard to place this pool either. There should be some grade level below the pool frame for water to drain somewhere. If not, when it rains, it could start eroding dirt under your frame legs.
  4. I don't recommend using pavers for this size pool - I thought the instruction manual has pretty good measurements on where the legs will end up being once the pool is filled to help for placement, but those individual pavers will move around on that sand due to the weight of the pool, and many people have reported the pavers cracking due to the stress from the weight for this particular size pool.
  5. I recommend using 2"x12"x8' pressure treated boards to set the frame on. I followed this guy's setup and it has worked perfectly for 4 seasons now. You would need 12 of them x ~$36.00+tax, which will put you back about $450.00 or more for your area.
  6. If you want to have a VERY flat and VERY smooth bottom, I highly recommend that once the bottom is level with dirt, add some sand to fill in some low spots, and then like others have done, purchase 4'x8' insulation panels x16 to go under the liner. It will feel amazing on your feet and reduce wrinkling in the liner from the sand moving once water is in the pool (~$700.00), plus a couple rolls of gorilla tape to tape the seams together
  7. In addition, I added BalanceFrom 1/2" Thick Flooring Puzzle Exercise Mat with High Quality EVA Foam Interlocking Tiles, 6 Piece, 24 Sq Ft on top of the insulation panels (x22 packs), and it makes the pool pretty dang amazing. Also recommend putting this under an intex PureSpa hot tub if you get one (~$470).
  8. Recommend buying a resin shed to store your chemicals and supplies in away from your house/garage and close to the pool (~$1500 for wood to build base frame and for shed)
  9. For this pool, I use ruby sand media for the sand filter and replace annually. You'll need 2 bags, as it uses a full bag and about a 1/3 of the next one.
  10. Recommend using two intex surface skimmers (~$25 each) instead of just one. Use socks with the skimmers, which greatly reduces surface scum and the socks will indicate pretty quickly if you have an algae problem. Remember, you should just completely remove the skimmers when you have large groups of people swimming, or you can dislodge them with the waves, start sucking in air and air lock your pump and overheat it.
  11. Recommend the Intex Recreation Corp 28001E Intex Auto Pool Cleaner, 1 Pack, Grey, ($105.00) as this thing surprising keeps the bottom extremely clean vs you having to manually vacuum.
  12. These intex LED color changing magnetic lights ($120 each) that also include just regular white light are pretty dang good too. Need 2-3 to really light up the pool.
  13. This year, I'm using three tablet bobbers with four 3" tablets each, to keep the chlorine level slightly elevated to prevent algea from growing and it is working really well so far. I bought a salt water system when I bought the pool, but read how the salt water quickly rusted out this type pool frame legs very quickly within a season and the frame leg replacements are expensive as heck.

Good luck and let us know what you ended up doing with some pics and updates!
Thanks for your reply! We are in the process of draining it. We only have a few inches left. I think my husband may divorce me if I show him your reply haha. I am really hoping I can find someone to dig out the area properly. We have been battling this for over a month now!
 
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