Do I need a new salt cell? Pool dummy.

[2salty]

Hi All, thank you for this resource.

I have an approximately 30K gallon saltwater pool, set up with a Hayward Gold Line control and T-15 chlorinator.

We moved here a couple years ago and I had no prior experience maintaining a pool. Last year, the salt level indicated on the Hayward control started to dip out of the range I researched as optimal (2800-3200 PPM). So, being an idiot, I took its word for it and started adding salt. Lots of salt, to keep it in this range. It kept periodically dipping no matter, so in went more salt. It would (and does) dip so low that the salt cell will turn off. I've cleaned the salt cell numerous times per recommendations in a dilute muriatic acid solution.

This year, I did what I should have at first. I tested my salt levels, after all that adding, and found them to be almost 7000 PPM. The salt cell still dips down to below 1000 PPM indicated, and of course doesn't turn on for more than 30 seconds. Hayward system reports "very low salt" and the yellow warning light is on as usual. Salt cell has been cleaned, plates look good.

Is the salt cell malfunctioning because my salt concentration is too high? I know I need to take care of that anyway, but I'm wondering if that's the root cause of the malfunction. Or, is the salt cell trash and needing replacement?

The rest of my pool chemistry seems fine aside from low chlorine levels obviously.

I'd appreciate any help or guidance here. Thanks so much in advance!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Your cell is probably toast.

What are the first seven characters of the cell and box serial numbers?

How are you measuring the actual salinity?

Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading

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Your one-stop shop for all things TFP to include: ABCs of Water Chemistry, Recommended Chemicals/Levels, Test Kits, Troubleshooting, and much more!

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[2salty]

Thanks so much for your reply.

I assume the serials appear below the barcodes. I don't see anything that specifies serial.

Salt Cell - 3E17129
Box - 3L14352

I used Clorox salt test strips, plus a small electronic tester I got from Amazon.

 

[2salty]

I also should add that the box is a Hayward Prologic Goldline. I have been trying to figure out if there's a way to calibrate the salt cell, but can't seem to find it.

 

[ajw22]

Your cell is 6 years old. Cells don't last that long in Texas.

Your box is from 2014 and the first cell probably lasted 3 years with the cell you have being the replacement.

3 years is about right for that cell in Texas.

Trash your Clorox test strips and get the Taylor K-1766 or TF Salt Bundle

 

[ajw22]

I also should add that the box is a Hayward Prologic Goldline. I have been trying to figure out if there's a way to calibrate the salt cell, but can't seem to find it.

Nope, you don't calibrate a Hayward system. The salinity is calculated by the box based on the volts and amps and new cell performance.

The Prologic uses the performance of the cell to determine salinity. For each cell (T-3, T-5, T-9 OR T-15), Hayward knows the performance of a properly functioning cell at each temperature and salinity combination. The higher the salinity and/or water temperature, the higher the performance (chlorine output).

To get the performance of the cell, divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity. If the ratio is less than 75%, it's time for a new cell. For example, 2,000 (instant salinity) ÷ 3,600 (measured salinity with a test kit)=56%. Check the cell and clean it if necessary. If that doesn't work, it's time for a new cell.

There is no separate salinity sensor in an Prologic.

 

[2salty]

Thanks again for your help. One more question - is there anything wrong with buying a non-Hayward cell? I see a bunch on amazon and Leslie. Some say not compatible with Prologic system. My system doesn't have any automation add-ons I'm aware of (doesn't dispense any chemicals automatically). I probably know the answer but wouldn't mind saving a few hundred if it's an option.

 

[ajw22]

Thanks again for your help. One more question - is there anything wrong with buying a non-Hayward cell? I see a bunch on amazon and Leslie. Some say not compatible with Prologic system. My system doesn't have any automation add-ons I'm aware of (doesn't dispense any chemicals automatically). I probably know the answer but wouldn't mind saving a few hundred if it's an option.

You buy a generic cell at your own risk.

In my view you get what you pay for.

The generic cells often don't get as much life since they use less rare earths on the plates to get to the price point.

 

[scchristy]

Your cell is 6 years old. Cells don't last that long in Texas.

Your box is from 2014 and the first cell probably lasted 3 years with the cell you have being the replacement.

3 years is about right for that cell in Texas.

Trash your Clorox test strips and get the Taylor K-1766 or TF Salt Bundle

Why don't cells last as long in Texas?

 

[generessler]

Why don't cells last as long in Texas?

I'd guess weather that requires high output for much of the year and fill water (in many locations at least) conducive to high CSI, which leads to cleaning with acid, which reduces life.

 

[ajw22]

Why don't cells last as long in Texas?

You run the cell 10+ months out of the year and a Texas pool needs around 4ppm of FC per day.

Cell life is optimistically 10,000 hours.

A cell generating for 10 hours/day, 300 days/year, will rack up the 10,000 hours in about 3 years give or take.