Do I need a new pump?

bryan527

Member
Jun 23, 2023
8
Long Island
Pool Size
25000
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Woke up this morning and noticed the pump wasn't running. When I went outside to check I saw that the circuit breaker was flipped. I reset it and turned the pump back on and it immediately turned off again. I tried one more time and the pump stayed running but did not sound normal. Then I noticed the motor looks like it burnt and there was a little bit of smoke coming out. It did not look like this before.

Any ideas of what could have caused this? I am not sure how old the pump is I just moved into the house a few months ago. Do I need to replace the motor?
 

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Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately I don't know the age. Here I've attached the only picture I have from before it got burnt. Not sure if its helpful. Can I replace just the motor or would you replace the whole pump?
 

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You might be able to replace just the motor with either a 2-speed or a variable speed model. @1poolman1 has good experience with compatibility of models. But making that work is also contingent on the wet end (pump pot) not being warped or damaged. When all is said & done, sometimes it's just more economical to replace the entire unit.
 
Do I have to replace it with the same model pump?
If you elect to replace the entire pump, your biggest concerns are proper voltage (i.e. 220V) and plumbing connections. Motor horsepower can vary a bit, but if you go with a variable speed pump, they are adjustable so that concern is eliminated.

Shame this happened so close to your closing though.
 
Shame this happened so close to your closing though.
I know. My first thought was to just close the pool and deal with it in the spring. But I guess I need the pump to be working properly in order to close the pool right?

Do you have any recommendations for a variable speed pump?
 
But I guess I need the pump to be working properly in order to close the pool right?
If you have no algae at the moment, it's possible you could limp along by circulating water and increasing the FC level now until water temps fall. Then at closing use your Cyclone or air compressor to blow-out the lines.

Do you have any recommendations for a variable speed pump?
Many more VSPs to choose from today. Besides the big names, others like Calimar and Black & Decker have also released various models. But I would defer a motor or pump recommendation to @1poolman1 next time he gets a chance to visit the forum. Being a field expert, he has some very good insight on reasonable replacements. :goodjob:
 
Also another question. Do I have to replace it with the same model pump?
That is a 1.5 HP "uprated" pump, meaning it is a 1.65 THP. A Nidec NPTT165 motor and a GO KIT 3 (seal, O rings, gaskets) will turn it into a variable-speed pump for half the cost of new. As it looks like you're running the pump on 120V, that is a good option that requires no re-plumbing of the system. VSP that run on that voltage are limited. The motor has a built-in timer and clock so whatever timer you are now using would go away.

The Calimar, Blue Torrent, Black and Decker, etc. all require 240V.
The Hayward and Pentair VSP that can run on 120V are all in the $1100 - $1400 range and would require the system to be re-plumbed.

When a motor burns like yours, many times it is because the cord that is being used to power it is undersized resulting in lower-than-necessary voltage at the motor. That will increase the amp draw resulting in excessive heat and the burning you see. Whichever route you take, it would be good to increase the size of the cord supplying power, or better yet, hardwire it.
 
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